If you mow your lawn correctly and frequently, you should manage to avoid the invasion of most weeds. But if you have found that some of these undesirable weeds have infiltrated your lawn, then there is a few methods for weed removal.
Weed Removal Options
Hand Removal
Many small weeds can be carefully pulled out by hand; however, you will need to make sure you have removed the roots. Using a weeding trowel or long handled mechanical device and prizing around the roots will help ensure total removal. The bigger the weed, the bigger and stronger the roots.
To make this job a little easier, you might want to try a standing weed puller like the Fiskars Xact Weed Puller.
Herbicide Treatment Options
There are various herbicides available, including selective and non-selective types.
Non-selective products like Round Up (Glyphosate) kill most plants including your lawn; selective herbicides target specific weeds only.
It is strongly recommended that you consult your local nursery or turf expert to properly identify the weed in question first, so you can treat it with an appropriate and effective spray.
Paspalum, Crabgrass, Summer grass – Paspalum herbicides contain the active DSMA. Make sure it’s safe to use on your turf as many varieties like buffalo and kikuyu are spot treatment only.
Prevention – Pre-emergent Herbicides
There is also a way to prevent some weed types from appearing at all.
A pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert targets weed seeds before they take hold. It works by forming a barrier at soil level that stops the germination of any new seedlings. Pre-emergents can be used in the prevention of Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crowsfoot and Crab Grass.
If your preference is to avoid the use of herbicides on your lawn, then there are some organic weed treatments which may work against particular weeds.
Some of these options include boiling water, salt, vinegar, cornmeal gluten and nonanoic acid – but keep in mind that these will almost always be non-selective and will harm your lawn as well, so spot treating is the way to go. Read more here.
With the use of any herbicides, always make sure you wear the appropriate protective equipment including gloves and a mask, follow the label instructions and make sure that the particular product is safe to use on your turf variety.
When you think of grass, the first thing you probably think of is mowing. So we’re going to give you a brief run-down of the different types of lawn mowers that are available, what types of lawns they are useful for and some key tips to ensure you get the perfect cut.
Rotary
Most of us use a standard rotary lawn mower. It has spinning blades rotating on a vertical axis under a cutting deck. This deck can be adjusted up or down depending on the height we need to cut our lawn.
The blades chop at the grass as they rotate and work best on a medium to high cut. Rotary’s can be petrol or battery powered, with the battery versions increasing in popularity recently due to zero emissions and more advanced battery systems.
Newer models are able to generate nearly as much power as the petrol versions.
For larger areas, you have the option of stepping up to a ride-on lawn mower to get the job done quicker and easier.
Reel Mowers
But rotary mowers aren’t the only way to cut your lawn. The alternative cutting mechanism is a reel-based system like on a cylinder mower, which has blades that cut your grass on a horizontal axis.
There are petrol or battery-operated reel mowers, or push reel mowers which require a little extra grunt work as they are manually driven by human force only.
Reel mowers generally have somewhere between five and twelve exposed blades at the front of the mower that rotate around trapping and slicing the grass against a fixed bottom plate called a bed knife, much like a pair of scissors. The more blades there are, generally the better the cut and the lower you can go. This cutting action works best on a low or short cut and will struggle if the grass is too long.
When using a reel mower, you will need to mow more frequently, as many as 2-3 times a week during the growing season to ensure a nice clean cut.
So, which one cuts your lawn the best?
Reel mowers, cylinder mowers in particular, will have a better quality of cut due to the slicing ‘scissor’ action. This action is superior to that of of a rotary mower, when comparing both with sharp well-maintained blades.
Having said this, a rotary mower with sharp blades and decent power produces a good enough cut that most people would be happy with. The versatility that rotary mowers have over large lawns with more debris will generally make them more practical for most homeowners. If you are someone who enjoys regular mowing and a fine cut well-manicured lawn though, then a cylinder mower would be the go.
Automower
There are a few other options when it comes to lawn mowing options, but one that is particularly exciting is the robotic lawn mower – like the Husqvarna Automower.
Generally, these machines have sharp blades that spin and cut your lawn in a random pattern before returning to charge. These machines are a great way to maintain a perfectly manicured lawn without the effort that is required with a traditional push mower, they do the job for you!
Whichever lawn mower you have the basic principles for mowing correctly are as follows…
Don’t allow it to get too long
Mowing regularly promotes lateral growth and allows more of the sun’s rays to get amongst the leaf of your lawn. Never cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade of your lawn at any one time. If your lawn is out of control and needs a more severe cut, take it down over a few mows.
Mix it up
Mowing in different directions minimises monotony, it also contributes to a healthy lawn by encouraging the blades to grow straight. This in turn provides more space for new blades to grow.
Don’t mow when the lawn is wet
Rain is great for fertilising, but not ideal for mowing. Mowing when the grass is wet can damage leaf blades as they tear rather than cut, leaving an uneven edge.
Keep your blades sharp
To get a beautiful cut, it’s important to keep your mower blades in peak condition.
It’s also important to understand the type of turf variety that you have as they do perform differently. The height that you mow one type of grass may not be ideal for another. Above all else, try and respond to your lawn specifically, as different conditions and lawn care programs can influence what height you can comfortably manage your lawn.
Guideline for ideal mowing heights
(Rule of thumb: shorter for summer, longer for winter)
There are many sustainable gardening practices that can assist your lawn. From how you mow your lawn to how you harness and use water, we’ve provided here a list of some methods and actions to help you achieve your sustainability goals, with your lawn in mind.
Watering wisely
Grey water can be used on your lawn by way of a bucket or a grey water system.
Grey water is the wastewater from washing machines, laundry tubs, baths, showers and wash basins. It doesn’t include wastewater from the toilet, dishwasher or kitchen sink.
Using grey water reduces pressure on waste systems and also saves on drinking water. If you want to use grey water, be sure to use suitable detergents (low in phosphorus and sodium) that won’t harm your plants and lawn. These types of detergents are readily available at your local supermarket.
Regulations on grey water use vary across the country and from council to council, so you need to check with the relevant authorities to find out what is legal and suitable for you.
Making use of clippings
During autumn you may be mowing your lawn more frequently and have too many grass clippings to leave on your lawn – there are other good uses for them.
Compost
Grass clippings are high in nitrogen. Combined with brown material, clippings break down quickly and provide a nutrient-rich compost that can be applied to your garden. Take a look at this post for more on general composting.
Mulch for garden beds
Grass clippings help your garden to retain moisture, block out weeds and add nutrients to your soil. The nitrogen and potassium within the clippings are also great for your plants.
Liquid fertiliser
Place your grass clippings in a bucket of water and allow them to steep. Nutrients such as potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus and amino acids will leach into the water. After a few days you can strain the liquid and apply it to your plants.
It is OK to leave your clippings on the lawn every now and then. Recycling your grass clippings on your lawn can supply 25% of its annual nitrogen requirements. Leaving too many clippings on the lawn can cause your grass to burn and lose colour, so make sure you’re only cutting a little off the leaf when you plan to leave it on the lawn.
Passing on pesticides/herbicides
If you follow the other suggestions listed above and below you may not need to use pesticides and herbicides at all. When the occasional weed pops up, simply remove it by hand.
The trick with weeds is to get onto them early. Many small weeds can be carefully removed by hand, but you need to get the roots out. A weeding trowel or long handled mechanical device can help with total removal.
Controlling weeds with mowing frequency/height
Don’t mow too short as doing so invites weeds to establish in your lawn. Longer lawns combat blown in seed germination much better. They also require less water.
Another mowing tip is to mow regularly to keep your lawn lush and thick. This will help to choke out weeds.
Going electric
Speaking of mowing, you can try a battery-powered mower. Electric mowers are now available that run on batteries that last a reasonable amount of time. These days there are battery powered mowers that cut well too. These types of mowers are generally cheaper than petrol models and easier to maintain.
Selecting a drought-tolerant lawn
If you’re looking to install a new lawn, look for a variety that can hold up well in drought conditions, like TifTuf. TifTuf can establish roots in just seven days. This is up to 75% faster than other grass types, which means Tiftuf can be established with a lot less water.
Letting your lawn go dormant
Grass is extremely resilient. Most common lawn types in Australia can survive extended periods of drought. They will lose colour, become brown and dry, with little to no leaf growth, but they will generally sit dormant until it rains.
In summer when temperatures are high, grasses will enter a state of dormancy where they shut down tissue growth to preserve moisture. You can usually tell if a lawn is still alive by looking at the crown at the base of the leaves. If the crown is white to off white, it is likely that it’s still alive. A dead lawn will be dry, brown and brittle across the entire plant – the leaves, the roots and the crown.
Improving your soil
To maximise moisture retention in your soil, you may need to add some soil amendments. For a review on this topic, go here.
Practising sustainable gardening regarding lawns may include choosing the appropriate variety of lawn, changing lawn care habits and/or adopting waterwise systems. Recycling resources such as grass clippings and food scraps can play a part too. For more information on a drought tolerant variety of lawn, check out this post.
Resting in a comfortable bed restores you and gives you energy; the same goes for your lawn. If your lawn lies on the right bed of soil it performs to its potential. What makes the perfect bed of soil for your lawn and what can you do to improve your soil? Read on.
The soil that tops the lot
The three main soil types are sandy, loam and clay. For most lawn types, you can’t beat a loam soil.
Even if you have a good soil, a thin layer of loamy soil helps to get everything spot on. If your soil is poor and/or you need to build your levels, then this is the soil mix to order. It contains:
Sand (medium to course particles), with some clay, which helps to compact and form a base.
Some heavier soil. This helps to hold moisture and mixed with the sand creates a
free-flowing profile for water movement.
A composted material, such as green waste, chicken manure and some natural nutrients to help keep your pH at the right level.
This mix is ideal for the development and establishment of healthy turf roots. This will protect the turf from adverse conditions such as drought and winter frost. In most cases a good soil at a depth of 150mm will successfully support a lawn.
If your soil base is not like that detailed above, improvements can be made with soil amendments. The best time to use them is before your turf goes in, but if you have an existing lawn you can still apply them for great benefits.
For a new lawn
The good and bad about sandy soils
Water drains quickly from sandy soils, which is good for drainage, however as the water drains it removes essential nutrients. Sandy soils also dry quickly and can become hydrophobic (water repellent).
Adding organic matter and a soil with some clay will improve the nutrient levels and help with the water holding capacity. Mixing the organics and new soil into the existing soil is essential. In small areas this can be achieved with a mattock or hoe. For large areas a rotary hoe is best. Another option is a mini skid steer loader like a Dingo or Kanga Loader with a rotary hoe attachment.
Why water content is key to success with clay soils
Clay soils hold water and nutrients well but don’t drain as well as sandy soils. Adding organic matter and gypsum and then turning the mix through the soil works wonders. This opens the soil’s structure, improves drainage and oxygen levels, and makes nutrients more available.
A clayey soil needs the right moisture content. If it’s too dry it will be hard and difficult to cultivate. If it’s too wet, it becomes boggy.
How much organic matter and gypsum you add depends on the soil. For light clay about 1kg/sqm of gypsum is the usual application rate. Add two kg/sqm for heavier clays. A layer of about 20 to 30mm of organics should be plenty before cultivating the soil. In some cases, with a light clay soil for example, all you may need to do is spread the gypsum and then cultivate before bringing in and spreading your turf underlay soil mix.
You may just need to turn it over!
Often all that is needed is to turn over a good soil that has become compacted, perhaps with some gypsum, and then level with a thin layer of underlay.
Cheap test could save you big bucks later
Your soil’s pH is another important factor, but one that is often overlooked. It can greatly affect nutrient intake and therefore your lawn’s health and appearance. So testing your soil’s pH and making any adjustments plays an important role. It’s best done before you lay your new lawn. If your soil is acidic, you can fix it with the addition of some lime. If it’s alkaline, or basic, you need to add a sulphur product, such as sulphur of ammonia.
Tip: Don’t forget to check with your council about water exemptions. Many councils are offering water exemptions to people who are installing new lawns.
For existing lawns
For an established lawn on a sandy soil, you need to aerate first, then use a top spreader to spread the organic matter, like top-dressing. Then, apply water to water the organic material in. Remember also to only apply the amendments during your lawn’s growing season.
You may also want to try a wetting agent on an established lawn to improve water retention.
For an established lawn on a clay soil, you need to aerate first, then use a top spreader to spread the gypsum like top-dressing. Then, apply water to water the gypsum in. Remember also for established lawns to only apply the amendment during your lawn’s growing season.
An established lawn’s pH can still be rectified. If your soil is acidic, you can fix it with the addition of some lime. If it’s alkaline, or basic, you need to add a sulphur product, such as sulphur of ammonia. You will need to aerate first, then use a top spreader to spread the lime or sulphur of ammonia like top-dressing. Then, apply water to water the amendment in. Remember also for an established lawn to only apply the amendments during your lawn’s growing season.
Now you know why giving your lawn’s roots a great place to rest is essential for good lawn health. You’re armed with the knowledge to fix a hydrophobic soil, correct pH imbalances and get the best from the three main soil types. For more tips on how to get and keep a great lawn, go here.
During the rush of Christmas it can be hard to find the time to give your lawn the love it needs. The average lawn may be just surviving a hot summer. High temperatures, backyard parties and outdoor games can all have ill effects on a lawn.
However, with your kids now back at school, you may have a bit more breathing space. Your lawn could probably do with some breathing space too, literally. Over the party period your lawn may have developed some compacted areas from a vehicle, caravan, an inflatable pool, or simply from foot traffic. If that’s the case, it may be time to aerate your lawn to help it get more oxygen and water. You may now also have some dry spots or weeds to get on top of.
If your lawn hasn’t been too badly affected by the festive fun you may just need to aerate, apply a wetting agent, fertilise and give your lawn some time to recover. These simple actions combined with returning to regular mowing will get your lawn looking fantastic in no time.
To determine if you need to aerate, grab a screwdriver and try to push it into any suspected compacted high-traffic areas. If you can’t easily push it in 10 to 15 centimetres, then a good aeration will do wonders for your lawn’s recovery.
Visitors’ cars and caravans may have also left ruts in your lawn, which can also be fixed by aerating the affected areas to reduce soil compaction. Aerating your lawn will help when the grass begins to repair itself by allowing more nutrients and oxygen available to the recovering lawn. Also, lightly top-dress these areas with a sandy soil, making sure you don’t smother the leaf (only top-dress during your lawn’s active growing period. Note though, if the ruts are especially deep, you should top-dress the area, then lay fresh turf over the top of the ruts.
The trick with weeds
One of the best ways to reduce weeds is to have a healthy lawn so it chokes them out. The recommended strategy is to clean up any weeds before they go to seed and create problems for you later. Look at the basics before you turn to the spray bottle – check your soil, aerate, and top-dress if necessary; mow regularly and fertilise. If weeds are still an issue, either pull them by hand or try a selective herbicide that’s safe for your lawn.
If you need some further information on control of summer weeds check out this post.
How to handle dry spots
If your lawn has dry spots, then lack of water or poor soil and drainage could be the problem. Apply a wetting agent over your entire lawn as a quick fix. Water the affected area well with a hose, then water the entire lawn. Be mindful of any water restrictions in your area when you do this.
Next, applying an NPK fertiliser will encourage your lawn’s growth. A deep watering will break down the fertiliser and give your lawn the best chance to thrive.
Bare patches
Don’t despair if you find you have thinning grass or bare patches after packing away furniture or equipment, such as an inflatable pool. There are a couple of great options to revive your tired lawn.
Keep in mind though there’s another option if your lawn is easily damaged from wear. If you want to minimise the effects of heavy foot traffic, and therefore repair work, you may want to look at replacing it with turf that can tolerate high wear, like TifTuf.
If your lawn was in bad shape before the holidays and is looking beyond repair (or you think it might be too difficult), now is a great time to look at installing a new lawn. Many turf suppliers offer a full conversion service where they come in and complete ground preparation, supply and installation. Many councils also have exemptions in place for new lawns.
General watering
The best advice regarding watering is to water deeply and less frequently. This leads to deeper root growth, which means your lawn will have moisture available for longer. The best time to water is in the morning. Ensure you follow any water restrictions that may apply in your area.
Bonus tip
Another suggestion for lawn care following summer holidays is to consider applying a grass pigment. A natural, organic-based pigment like ColourGuard will instantly green up your lawn!
Your lawn may have seen some serious use over the summer break and led to bare spots, dry areas, weeds and compaction. Some common, easy lawn care practices, such as aerating, applying a wetting agent, fertilising, deep watering and regular mowing, can help you to reclaim a beautiful lawn.
Perhaps your garden has taken off and your trees and shrubs have shot up in the past five years and you’ve now got too much shade. Or your kids have become more active and are placing greater wear on your lawn. What is the right lawn?
Whatever the reason, what was once an ideal lawn for your yard is now not suitable for the environment or its uses.
Here’s a guide to help you decide on a lawn that will look good and suit your family’s requirements.
Location
The first thing to consider is your location.
For example, if you live close to the coast you may have noticed that your current lawn doesn’t cope well with salt. Therefore you need to look for a variety that can tolerate salt. Or you may live in an increasingly warmer climate and have found that your lawn doesn’t cope very well with drought. In this case, you’d be best served by a lawn that can cope better with dry conditions.
Use
Once you determine what types of lawns are suitable in your area you can look at what you’ll be using your lawn for. For example, will it be purely for show, or do you have kids and/or a dog that will make it a high-traffic area.
Shade
How much sun and shade you get is critical to the success of your lawn. If your neighbour has added a second floor to their home or their trees have grown substantially since you installed your lawn, you may have to reconsider the variety you have to get the best result. If you have full sun all day then you can choose almost any variety, but shade tolerance becomes very important with reduced hours of sunlight. Remember though that all varieties will struggle in heavily shaded areas.
Water use
Drought tolerance may have become a more important issue for you in recent times. Varieties such as Sir Grange and TifTuf have excellent drought tolerance. Couches, most soft leaf buffaloes and zoysias are similar in most areas for water usage. Kikuyu needs a bit more water to maintain a reasonable appearance.
Note drought tolerance and water usage are not the same. Some grasses will survive in extreme conditions with minimal water, but not look their best, while others will look better for longer, but can die without adequate water.
Wear and tear
More cars or people at home will lead to heavier wear and tear, therefore a faster growing lawn that self-repairs quickly might be best for you.
More traffic will result in more compaction, especially with clay-based soils, causing stress and damage to any lawn. If you’re putting in a new lawn remember that regular aeration should be a key component of your maintenance plan.
Turf persona
Are you a keen gardener? If you don’t mind getting outside and edging, mowing, fertilising, etc. then you won’t mind if you choose a higher maintenance variety of turf. However, if you want to spend a minimal amount of time on your lawn, then you can look for lower maintenance varieties and place a greater weighting on this when making a final decision.
Budget
Lawn varieties vary in price too, so this may be a major consideration for you. Ultimately, you’ll have to decide if a certain lawn provides you good value. For example, if low maintenance has become a greater priority for you, you may decide that purchasing a zoysia is well worth a little more money.
Preference of leaf
Fine, soft and broad are all descriptors of the leaf of lawn varieties. This is a personal preference. For some it’s not of high importance, while others specifically want a certain leaf profile.
Lawn examples
Sir Grange is a showpiece type of lawn with a deep green, fine leaf. This zoysia tolerates shaded areas very well and has reduced maintenance requirements. Sir Grange suits lawn lovers who want the best of the best.
Sir Walter DNA Certified is the number one buffalo lawn in Australia. This broad-leafed variety thrives in all types of weather, from frost to drought. It’s also relatively low maintenance.
TifTuf has a fine, soft leaf, however this is one tough lawn. It’s ideal for those with an active lifestyle – perfect for backyard footy, frisbee and fun. It can be cut short and has higher maintenance requirements due to its rapid repair from wear.
Your yard’s environment and how you use your lawn may have changed since you installed your grass. Deciding what’s most important to you is a great place to start to assist you with deciding on a variety that’s right for you and your new conditions. Once you’ve got that clear in your mind, it’s best to give a turfgrower a call to confirm your choice and perhaps even drop in to a farm to take a look at the variety you’re interested in.
Would you like a lawn you can mow less? ‘Low-mow’ lawns are available. Mostly, these lawns require less watering and fertilising too. Maybe you’ve got an area that’s not as easy to maintain as others. Grasses are also available that can help in these areas, too.
Turfgrass breeders work on improving turf types to develop lower maintenance, reduced input and lower growth lawns. Some zoysia grasses can grow at half the speed of couches and kikuyus, therefore resulting in significantly less mowing.
Slow growth equals less mowing
A great example of a lawn variety that requires less mowing is Sir Grange. This is a Zoysia matrella variety that can tolerate high wear once established. The reason this turf requires less mowing is mainly due to it having a very slow growth pattern. Sir Grange grows slowly, as it uses about 20 percent of the nutrients of other varieties to stay looking good. A lot of the nutrients’ energy goes into Sir Grange’s extensive root system. Less energy is needed for leaf growth, hence slower growth.
Sir Grange is also great in areas that are difficult to get to for maintenance purposes.
Sir Grange will grow until it reaches a certain height (about 15 to 20cm). After that, it virtually stops growing and looks fantastic. The best part is you don’t have to mow it at all! Zoysia grasses by nature do not grow very tall, that’s why in tropical climates you often see ornamental zoysia as weed protection in garden beds, or in public spaces that councils wish to mow infrequently.
Other options for awkward areas
Other types of grasses that are suitable for hard to maintain areas, such as steep slopes, are mondo grass and centipede grass. These grow really slowly which is also good for some tricky areas, such as between pavers. Mondo grass is good for heavily shaded areas, but it’s not especially drought tolerant. It’s also not ideal for use as a lawn because it’s not very wear resistant.
Centipede grass is a low-mow grass, but according to the Queensland Turf Producers Association does not handle shade well and in southern Queensland at least, turns brown in winter. Centipede grass is also not very wear resistant.
It’s important to look at what grass types are appropriate for your climate and growing conditions. A Lawn Solutions Australia turfgrower can help in offering the right advice.
When to install low-mow turf
In an ideal climate, the best time to install slow growing grasses is the back end of winter, a month to a month and a half prior to spring, as this gives the turf time to bed in and settle prior to the spring and summer growth period. In colder areas though, this would be too early. You can contact your local Lawn Solutions Australia turfgrower to discuss when the best time is to install a low-mow lawn such as Sir Grange in your area.
A lawn you can mow less frequently sounds like a dream, but you can make it a reality. This type of lawn can be installed in any suitable area and is especially suited to areas that are more difficult to maintain, such as between pavers or on slopes.
These types of grasses are slow growing, which is why they are easier to maintain. Talk to your local grower about installing a low-mow lawn.
The threat to your lawn from the heat of summer is coming to an end, but the threat to your lawn in the form of root and leaf eating grubs, caterpillars and insects remains; some of these nasty critters can keep attacking right through the months of autumn. Now is the time to safeguard against them.
**Pest Alert**
Army worm are on the march! Army worm can scalp an entire lawn in just a few days! Make sure you take action urgently if you see these pests in large numbers ‘marching’ their way across your lawn.
What to look for
If you have brown or straw-like patches in your lawn, or your lawn’s leaves are disappearing, you may have an infestation of these grubs. Look for the telltale sign of small green droppings, which are basically your old lawn! Also look for white/grey moths, which is another indication of a problem.
Cutworms, armyworms and sod webworms are some of the creatures that can ravage your lawn. They feed on your lawn’s leaves, becoming moths following their pupae stage. The lifecycle of these lawn grubs is about 30 to 40 days, which means they can occur several times over summer and autumn.
Adult black beetles can cause a problem in large numbers. They shouldn’t be much of a problem in smaller numbers though and can in fact be beneficial to some lawns.
What to apply
Battle Insecticide
Battle Insecticide is a powerful knockdown and residual pesticide that works through direct contact and by residual action as the pest comes into contact with treated surfaces.Battle is a liquid concentrate that contains the active ingredient Bifenthrin, plus a surfactant to help the product adhere on application.
Preventative Insecticides
Grub Guard Ulitmate and Acelepryn GR can also eradicate cutworms, armyworms and sod webworms. They are ideal for larger areas and long-term pest control. It provides protection for up to six months. This is why we recommend Grub Guard Ultimate and Acelepryn. They provide safe and effective control of these bugs, while minimising the impact on the environment and non-target organisms, such as bees and earthworms. Therefore, now is a great time to spread it and protect your lawn.
These insecticides provides season-long control of grubs and caterpillars in a single application. The efficiency and longevity of these products means your lawn is free of trouble for longer and because Acelepryn and Grub Guard Ultimate are exempt from poison scheduling, personal protection requirements are reduced. As well both are a non-spray option, which means it’s easier to use.
These insecticides kill the larvae of Black Beetle, which are present from about November to March, so an application of this for treating Black Beetle is best applied in September.
Pests such as insects and caterpillars remain a threat to your lawn through autumn, but they’re easily controlled with the right choice of insecticide. A little knowledge about the lifecycle of these pests aids in the decision.
With products such as Acelepryn and Grub Guard you can protect your lawn against attacks for many months.
Which selective weedkillers (herbicides) are safe on your lawn?
Weedkillers, or herbicides, keep your grass free of weeds, and a little knowledge in their use can help you avoid a disaster. Non-selective herbicides like glyphosate kill all weeds and your grass. Selective herbicides target one or a couple of types of weeds and grasses and have minimal effects on other plants and lawns.
Let’s look at some common selective herbicides and the weeds they target. We’ll also cover broadleaf herbicides, how some may be unsafe on your lawn, and why this means many Weed ‘n’ Feed type of products also may not be safe.
How to KO winter grass
Winter Grass can be removed by hand, but this can be tedious. A better option is Amgrow Chemspray Winter Grass Killer. You mix Winter Grass Killer with water to apply it. Once applied it breaks down quickly so there’s no residue left in the soil.
Winter Grass Killer kills winter grass by targeting the roots, so it’s critical to spray it early in the lifecycle of the winter grass (in May) before seed heads appear. If it goes to seed, winter grass will appear in your turf the following year and you’ll have similar problems.
Bonus tip: A pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert targets winter grass before it emerges from the soil. Using a combination of a pre-emergent like Oxafert and a selective control like Winter Grass Killer at the right time should ensure your lawn is free of it.
How to neuter nutgrass and Mullumbimby couch
Amgrow Sedgehammer controls nutgrass and Mullumbimby couch in Sir Walter lawns and most other common lawn types. Sedgehammer is for post-emergence control, which means it works on the weeds when you can see them.
How to paralyse paspalum
Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer controls paspalum. This is mixed in a pressure sprayer and the addition of a surfactant or wetting agent is recommended to ensure it adheres better to the paspalum leaf. Spraying the paspalum during the warmer months produces the best results. You may need to apply it more than once to remove it from your lawn.
For kikuyu and buffalo lawns it’s best to spot spray the paspalum and not the entire lawn as it can cause harm to your grass as well. Ensure you adhere to the application rates listed on the product.
How to blast broadleaf weeds
Selective herbicides can target bindii, clover, oxalis and many other broadleaf weeds. However, some of these aren’t safe on all grasses. The main active ingredients include dicamba and bromoxynil. Bromoxynil based herbicides, such as All Purpose Weed Control, can be used on Sir Walter buffalo, but not on older buffalo varieties such as ST buffaloes. Dicamba based herbicides can’t be used on buffalo lawns, which leads us to Weed ‘n’ Feed type products.
Why Weed n Feed is not a magic bullet
Weed n Feed products normally contain a broadleaf herbicide and a fertiliser. They come in a bottle that you attach to your hose and then spray the contents onto your lawn. This sounds good, but a product like this is like a cheap sofa bed – it doesn’t do either of its jobs remarkably well. Why? Read on.
Herbicide Component
The active constituent in Weed n Feed is Dicamba. The rate of Dicamba present in Weed n Feed bottles is very low and isn’t very effective on most broadleaf weeds (hence the very cheap price of Weed n Feed) and you will usually need 2 or 3 applications to get a result.
Dicamba cannot be used on Soft-Leaf buffalo lawns, as it will cause the lawn to die back and turn yellow. This greatly limits the products use in the domestic market as a lot of home lawns in Australia are soft leaf buffalo.
Fertiliser Component
Weed n Feed adds very little nutrient value to the grass. The fertiliser component mainly contains Nitrogen and Iron, which will give the plant a short boost of green colour, but usually contains zero Phosphorus and Potassium, so it does virtually nothing for the root strength and development of the plant. Which means it is hardly a fertiliser at all.
You’re armed, now what?
Now you know how to combat some common weeds and how to select the right product. However, there are some weeds that are difficult to control as there may be no selective herbicide available, while others that are available are extremely expensive. If you have a weed you’re unsure about call your local Lawn Solutions Australia expert in lawn care. If you’d like more information about non-selective herbicides go here.
Six words deflated me like a bindii in a bike tyre: ‘why don’t you do the edges?’ My lawn was looking terrific, but my edges were as fuzzy as riding in the rain wearing glasses. I can’t recall my answer to the question, but a star-wheeled edger soon found a home next to my bike in the shed and lifted my lawn to the next level.
The star-wheeled edger is a manual type, while others are powered. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, which we’ll discuss to sharpen your edger knowledge and your edges.
Manual edgers
Manual edgers are available in four types – hand shears, spades, half-moon edgers and rollers. They best suit smaller areas because they rely on your physical effort. Top tip: use them when the ground is damp! The advantages these edgers provide is they don’t release emissions, they’re low cost, require virtually no maintenance, and they’re easily stored.
Half-moon edger – These edgers are like a spade in that they require you to push the blade into the ground with your foot. You’ll achieve the best results by rocking the tool back and forth as you proceed along the edge.
Roller edgers also require foot power. They have a metal or wooden pole with either a star-shaped or disc-shaped wheel attached at the bottom. You place the wheel on the hard surface and the cutting edge into the ground, then push with your foot. These are good when they’re used frequently on edges that aren’t too overgrown.
Powered edgers
Powered edgers have a blade that cuts through the edge. The blade height is often adjustable so that you can cut just above ground or to several centimetres below ground. These are great for larger areas and long stretches of edging.
Petrol
Petrol models can have single or multiple wheels; the multiple wheeled types are the most stable.
These edgers can also go around trees or garden beds. There are variations among manufacturers, so you need to read the instructions related to the specific model.
The disadvantages of these are they are relatively noisy, they may need replacement parts (e.g. blades), they take up greater storage space, and they release emissions. Having said this, they will provide a nice straight deep edge that will look great and the more you practice the straighter and cleaner the edge will look.
Atom Professional Lawn EdgerOzito 2 Stroke Petrol Edger
Electric
Electric edgers are cord or battery powered and lighter than petrol models. They are quieter than petrol models, though they don’t have as much power. The benefit of these over the petrol models is there are no emissions and they’re a bit smaller, allowing easier storage.
Ryobi 18v One+ Cordless Edger
Rotary Scissors
Rotary scissors are another tool which can help you get a perfect edge to your lawn. These scissors work by using a pair of scissor-like bladed discs that rotate in a circular motion to trim and shape the edges of the grass.
Makita Rotary Scissors Attachment
What about a trimmer?
Whipper snippers or trimmers aren’t dedicated edging devices; however, they’re often used for this purpose. A rotating flexible nylon line cuts grass, weeds and small unwanted plants. On some models you can rotate the heads so they’re in a vertical position for edging.
Whipper snippers come in several versions: straight shaft or curved shaft with 2- or 4- stroke petrol motors or battery-operated models. They’re especially good for working at an angle.
The main types are corded, battery and petrol-powered trimmers. Petrol trimmers have more power and are much better for larger areas. Trimmers with cords will probably require an extension lead, so are only useful for small areas. They also aren’t as powerful.
If your lawn looks a bit scraggly around the edges, the overall appearance of your lawn is definitely diminished. Most people tend not to have a dedicated lawn edger, so if you are using a Whipper snipper/weed whacker/line trimmer or whatever it is you call it, it is important that you know how to use it to get the best results.
Here’s some tips for getting a great finish every time with a whipper snipper –
Speed – Your trimmer will work best when at full speed. So, keeping your trimmer line away from the edge and working your way in, is key to maintaining speed. Avoid starting the line trimmer already in the grass you’re cutting for the quickest, cleanest cuts. It’s the tip of the line that is cutting, so keeping the majority of the line clear will result in a cleaner cut.
Spin direction – Depending on which way your trimmer spins, you need to make sure you are cutting with one side and the material is being ejected to the opposite side. So, if your trimmer spins counter clockwise, you need to keep the right side closer to the edge so that material is being ejected away from it. This will keep the cutting path clear and allow you to achieve a much better result.
Edging and tapering – Edging will be important for driveways and paths where you are after a clean edge to something parallel. This is where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is vertical. This will provide a crisp cut line where you want the grass to end. Tapering is used for fences and retaining walls where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is at a slight angle. This will ensure you don’t scalp a full run of grass by trimming parallel and get a nice gradual blend between the object and the grass.
Regular trims – The best edges are ones that are kept on top of and not allowed to get out of control. So, the more you do it, the more likely your edges will stay uniform and the easier they will be to tidy up, and the better you will get at it.
The finish line
Each edger has its place, depending on the size of your yard and your needs. You may need a couple of types to get the look you want and get the edge on your neighbours!
Now you’re a little clearer on the edger(s) you need, get on your bike and get the one you like – chances are you’ll get a few more ‘likes’ for your lawn.
Remember, edgers are just one type of lawn care tool you need to maintain your yard. Head to this blog post for more great information on other tools.
