How to Install a Lawn ‘Green Side Up!’

Posted on February 24, 2021February 8, 2024 by Nathan Edwards

How to install a new lawn

Everything you need to know about laying turf

There are a few simple steps that you can follow to make sure that the area is prepared well and to ensure you are choosing the right grass variety for your home when you install a new lawn.

Check your turf underlay

Conducting a soil pH test will help you determine if your soil is either acidic, alkaline or neutral. An ideal pH is between 5.5 and 7. If your soil is not within this range it can be easily adjusted with some treatment. For more information about conducting a soil pH test, click here.

A turf underlay consisting of a sandy loam is preferred for most turf varieties. If your underlay is a clay base or heavy soils, you may want to look into applying gypsum. This will help break up the clay base, improving the soil structure by better allowing for water and root penetration. For more information on using gypsum, click here.

Measuring how much turf you need

Measuring out how much turf you need is not as difficult as it seems. Simply sketch the area on a piece of paper, break up the area into basic shapes and then measure and write down your measurements. To calculate the amount of turf you need, use our online calculator here.

After you have found out how much turf you need, add an extra 5% to factor in for cutting around odd shapes and objects in your garden such as trees and garden features – There’s nothing worse than being just a couple of rolls short!

Preparing an underlay

When preparing underlay there are a few steps to follow to help your new lawn perform the best it can.

Firstly, kill off any existing vegetation using a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate such as Round Up or Zero. This will not only get rid of any existing grass but will also kill any present weeds. After the first application you can mow low over the dead grass to remove the plant material, then follow with a second treatment. If you have a particularly invasive grass such as kikuyu or couch, we recommend that you repeat the above step 3-4 times over a month to ensure that all of the plant material is killed off. After the final application, use a hoe and turn over the existing base to de-compact the existing soil profile.

Depending on your existing base, you may need to add in a soil underlay. When adding a turf underlay, a sandy loam is best. For a Sir Grange Zoysia lawn, an underlay of 100 – 200 mm of washed river sand is recommended. For more information on turf underlays, check out our blog here.

The final step in preparing your underlay is to get the correct levels in order to have your turf laying flush against existing surfaces. We recommend leaving about 30-40mm below the height you are wanting, to allow for the thickness of the turf. Refer to your turf supplier for the specific thickness of the turf being provided. In this step ensure the whole area is smoothed out to avoid dips in your lawn.

Drainage

Another factor to consider is drainage. Where will water flow towards when it rains? Try to ensure that no water will sit on the lawn or go towards buildings in heavy rain events. If it’s likely, then now is the time to look at having drainage installed.

Choosing a turf type that is right for you

When choosing the type of lawn that will suit your garden and lifestyle, there are a few factors to consider. Garden position and size, budget and the amount of traffic on the lawn are just a few of the things that it is important to consider before you make your final choice.

If your garden is drenched in all day sunlight, your options are pretty much wide open. From the sun loving couch grasses to budget busting kikuyu’s, most grasses will survive and thrive in these conditions. If you do have issues with shade, this does not discount having a healthy lawn though. Take a look at Sir Walter DNA Certified, well known for setting the benchmark in shade tolerance. In fact, Sir Walter is so popular over 100 million metres of it have been laid in Australia since it was discovered, and it still remains Australia’s favourite buffalo lawn. The same can be said for lawns that are given a good workout by kids and pets – take a look at hardy, quick repairing lawns or even discuss with your local turf supplier varieties such as TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda.

Some gardens are created as a thing of beauty. For a real showstopper of a lawn, have a look at Sir Grange Zoysia. A Zoysia grass that was previously used on golf courses overseas, Sir Grange is a stunning lawn that once established, requires very little maintenance to look great.

Once you have decided which lawn works best for you, make sure you do the research on your turf supplier and always insist on a breeder guarantee. With so many different types of lawn now available it is important that you know you’re getting what you paid for.

Sir Walter DNA Certified Soft Leaf Buffalo

Laying turf

Now we are up to the most exciting step, laying your lawn!

The first step in this process is to spread a starter fertiliser such as Lawn Launcher. Starter fertilisers will provide your lawn with the essential nutrients your new lawn will need for root establishment and strong plant growth. Some starter fertilisers will also include moisture magnets, these will reduce the risk of your new lawn drying out in the heat.

When your turf delivery arrives, it is important to start laying the turf as soon as possible to avoid the turf drying out. If it is a particularly hot day, we recommend that you water each section of the turf as you lay it out to avoid it drying out.

Now the time has come to start laying turf. Start laying the turf furthest away from your exit to avoid walking and working over the freshly laid turf. Lay the turf in a brickwork pattern with the edges laying together. When working on a slope, it is recommended that you lay the turf across the slope. When laying the turf down, ensure that the roll of turf has good contact with the soil beneath.

If you need to cut turf to fit around trees and corners, use either a spade or shears. With the excess pieces, do not throw them away until the whole area has been covered.

Once completing the whole area, give the new turf a deep water immediately to avoid the turf drying out.

Turf aftercare for the first 6 weeks

Now that your lawn has been laid, it is time to care for it! With a freshly laid lawn it is crucial to keep the water up to it for the first month after instalment to keep the lawn healthy and encourage root establishment. Although watering requirements will change with the time of year and weather, you should be deeply watering your lawn every day for the first 3 weeks or until you give the lawn its first mow. Freshly laid lawns may require more watering’s to avoid the roots of the grass drying up.

Keep traffic off your lawn for the first month so that your lawn can root down properly.

To see if your lawn is ready for its first mow, see if you can lift a corner of the turf roll. If the roll lifts, the lawn is not ready to be mown. If the roll does not move and is rooted down into the soil you are ready to mow. When mowing for the first time, raise your mower height on a slightly higher setting than normal, then over the next few mows slowly bring down the mower height to your preferred height.

After 6 weeks your lawn will be ready for its first fertilise. When choosing a fertiliser, we recommend an NPK fertiliser such as Lawn Solutions Premium Lawn Fertiliser. After application, give the lawn a good water to help avoid leaf burn.

Fertilising can be repeated every 8-10 weeks and continue to water your lawn when required.

For more information on laying turf, please contact your local turf supplier here.

Turf Installation & Initial Care – Best Practice Guidelines

Loving Your Lawn Book

Posted on February 16, 2021March 15, 2021 by Nathan Edwards

The first truly Australian lawn guide designed specifically for our unique conditions. Presented by Lawn Solutions Australia, this practical, comprehensive guide to installing, maintaining and getting the most out of your outdoor room is set with stunning photography.

This guide is a must for everyone who treasures the humble Aussie backyard.

Featuring:

Handy Information for planning your new garden
Top tips for choosing and installing a new lawn to ensure its success
Advice on keeping your lawn at its absolute best

Buy Online Now

The Lawn Army Has Assembled! | Armyworm

Posted on February 15, 2021February 3, 2025 by Nathan Edwards

Armyworm

Spodoptera Mauritia

Armyworm have assembled and are on the march! Armyworm can scalp an entire lawn in just a few days. Make sure you take action urgently if you see these pests in large numbers ‘marching’ their way across your lawn.

What are Armyworm?

Armyworm are a caterpillar pest that can devastate a lawn within a matter of days. As their name suggests, during the larval stages they move together in large numbers ‘marching’ their way across foliage exhausting plant material as they go. During the day they can be found grouped together hiding near the stem of the grass near the soil. You may notice your lawn appears completely scalped of green leaf growth with an almost uniform line of damage that is continuing to spread rapidly. Once the lawn is stripped bare the Armyworms then move on to find another source of food. Armyworm unfortunately will have a preference for healthy lawns, these will be the most appealing to them in the street, so stay alert if that lawn is yours!

The Armyworm evolves through 6 to 9 stages, continuing to increase in size before being fully developed at around 40mm in length. The lifecycle is about 30 to 40 days, which means they can occur several times over summer and autumn.

At maturity, the caterpillar works its way into the soil and pupates before emerging as a moth after approximately 10 to 14 days. These moths are pale brown and identifiable by a distinct white spot in the middle of their wing. The moths then lay eggs that are sometimes visible on house eaves or similar areas around the home.

Identification

2mm to 40mm in length (mature caterpillars are 30mm to 40mm long)
3 prominent white or cream stripes running down the back and sides of their bodies — these are most obvious where they start on the thoracic segment (‘collar’) immediately behind the head and are particularly apparent in larvae that are longer than 10mm
No obvious hairs and are smooth to touch
Curl-up when disturbed
4 abdominal prolegs

How to Detect Armyworm

A good way to start with for detecting Armyworm is by doing some exploring during the evening. Kneel down onto your lawn at the edge of where damage has occurred. Spread the grass profile open with your hand and slowly run a torch across looking for caterpillars feeding or moving with the profile of the lawn.

Another option is to pour a bucket of soapy water (mix a small amount of dishwashing detergent with water), over the lawn in a small area towards the edge of a struggling or scalped lawn area. Then observe the area over the next 10 minutes or so to check for the Armyworm caterpillars which should rise to the surface to breathe if present. This is best undertaken at dusk when the Armyworm are likely to be most active.

The presence of the moth itself is also an indicator that Armyworm may be active in your area. If you notice moth activity around your home, congregating near lights like the one in the image below, this is a sign that they may be emerging from your lawn. You can then undertake the detection methods above to confirm.

How to Treat Armyworm

Treating Armyworm is quite simple, with the right products. It’s important you act as quickly as possible to ensure the damage they cause is limited.

Insecticide Application

Apply a fast knock down liquid insecticide to the leaf of a recently mown lawn during the afternoon. Repeat applications may be necessary over the coming weeks to ensure the Armyworm is completely eradicated. When the Armyworm become active again in the evening they will eat at the recently treated leaf. Granular grub treatment products can also be used, but for faster efficient treatment a liquid option will provide the best results.

Treatment options include:

An even better way to protect your lawns from an Armyworm attack, is to use a product preventative product like Grub Guard Ultimate and Acelepryn GR.

They are ideal for long-term pest control, providing both a curative treatment and protection to your lawn for up to six months.

These products can also eradicate Cutworms and Sod Webworms, providing safe and effective control of these bugs, while minimising the impact on the environment and non-target organisms, such as bees and earthworms.

Grub Treat and Protect Bundle

Protect your lawn from lawn pests with this one-two punch to treat an existing infestation and to protect your lawn for up to 6 months. If you have noticed damage to your lawn caused by black beetle larvae or Army worm, this bundle provides Battle Insecticide for a fast knock-down treatment, along with Grub Guard Ultimate – the best product on the market for lawn pest prevention in lawns.

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How to Repair Armyworm Damage

For more information on how to help your lawn repair after grub damage has occurred, please check out our blog here.

Summer Gardening Tips with Charlie Albone

Posted on February 1, 2021 by Nathan Edwards

Charlie Albone shares his tips for creating a garden that can handle the harsh Australian summer.

Surviving the Australian summer can be difficult with the highest temperatures we experience all year, so how do you keep gardening and what can you do to help your plants through this testing season?

Summer Gardening

You can start by helping your plants out by improving the soil so it can hold onto moisture and nutrients for longer by adding some compost, mushroom compost or cow manure. Dig this through where possible but in established beds you can use it as a mulch and let the worms do the hard work for you whilst protecting the roots of the plant stock.

Adding a granulated soil wetter to the mix and to all garden beds will ensure any rain or irrigation gets into the soil effectively to maximise uptake to the plants. Your soil may not be hydrophobic, but the addition of a soil wetter can prevent build-up of bad bacteria and is a good gardening practice.

Water in your soil wetter wisely, obviously you don’t want to be out in the heat of the day as you’ll lose excess moisture through evaporation, but early morning or evening is best and lock it all into the soil with 75mm of mulch.

Summer Lawns

When it comes to preparing your lawn for the hot summer it’s a good idea to aerate to ensure water gets down to the roots, you can fill the core holes with a washed coarse sand to combat excessive water loss through the holes. Laying out on the lawn is a must do summer activity but try to avoid excessive compaction as this can stress the plants roots out and poor roots turns into poor leaf growth and health. You should also be mowing more often, removing less leaf with each cut means less stress to the plant as a whole and a healthier stronger lawn.

Sun and Shade

For planting, picking the right plant for the right spot is vital at any time of the year but when you put something in the ground in summer you really need to make sure it gets the right amount of sun or shade, protection from wind or salty air, and the right amount of soil moisture. There is little room for error when it comes to getting the right amount of sun so also check your new plant hasn’t been raised in a shade house, as even if it’s a sun hardy variety the sudden shock of being put in direct light might tip it in the wrong direction.

Lawn Selection

The same applies to selecting a lawn species – if you want a drought and heat tolerant species you can’t go past TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda. Slow growing varieties such as Sir Grange Zoysia will take longer to establish so installing during the warmer months is ideal, but wait until the weather isn’t scorching hot so you’re not using too much water for establishment.

Creating shade in the garden can lower the temperature drastically, I know it’s considerably cooler under my wisteria covered pergola in the middle of the day! I like deciduous plants to cover structures as they let in the winter light as well as protect through summer. If you are adding a solid roof for all weather protection, it’s a good idea to insulate the roof for maximum effect.

Protecting sensitive plants with shade cloth in February helps them through too, for individual plants you can use stakes or star pickets to create a frame that can be removed once the heat has passed. For your veggies flexible plastic stakes can create a tunnel for plastic in the cooler months for heat or shade cloth for cooling in months like February. If you have a greenhouse it can be transformed into a shade house by removing the roof and replacing it with shade cloth.

Planting Vegetables

You can use this heat to get a jump start on your autumn seedlings for the veggie patch such as Romanesco broccoli and Cauliflowers. Winter vegetables are much slower growing than the veggies you have in at the moment as when the temperature does cool the growth slows right down with it, so why not get a jump start? Using the heat in one of your mini shade tunnels will also help germinate seeds that normally take time to show life such as carrots, leeks and beetroots. I would do this at the end of February and sow them at one-week intervals so when they are ready for harvest, you’ll have a longer cropping period rather than all at once.

We all know the shade of a large tree helps to cool its surroundings but make sure you plan for future growth, you don’t want a tree to get too big and shade out your lawn area in a few years so select wisely – again the right plant for the right spot!

Creating microclimates in your garden is a great way to manage heat as well, by grouping all your pots together in one area and placing them on trays to hold some moisture you’ll create a cooling effect surrounding the plants.

Knock couch mites for six | Miticides

Posted on January 27, 2021March 8, 2021 by Nathan Edwards

Couch Mites can be the pest that stops your lawn from being the best it can be.

Couch Mites| Aceria cynodoniensis

These tiny pests can only be seen under a microscope, but if present, their damage can be seen every time you look at your lawn.

A couch mite effected lawn will have the growing point of the leaves looking like a “witches’ broom.”

What you are looking for is a deformed leaf blade, which can appear as a boil like shape on the internode. The turf appears bunched up and as a result you cannot get that professional turf appearance you are after, even if you are using a cylinder mower.

Couch Mites are most prevalent just after a renovation or during peak growth times of the year. The life cycle is short, can be 10 to 14 days so population numbers can build quickly when conditions are suitable. Optimal temperature for couch mite damage is 26 degrees, making them a common problem in Summer in many warm season turf varieties, not just couch.

Couch Mite damage may look like the image below. The grass surface is bunched, and bare patches will be created if not treated. Notice how the area is brown with lime green to brown dead leaves.

Couch Mites will cripple turf recovery, as they feed, they inject toxins into the plant. The mites can be controlled but toxin remains within the plant.

Once physical damaged is observed (witches’ broom) the pest can be controlled quickly with miticide treatment, but damage can take a long time to recover – potentially all summer.

Image: Couch mite damage in kikuyu grass

Applying Miticides

Couch Mites are small and live between the new growing tips of the turf leaves.

For the best control, apply the miticide with a liberal coverage but using a very fine nozzle, for conventional sprayers turn the nozzle tip till it is at its finest and then apply.

Application must have good coverage of leaves, foliage and crown of the plant to assist with the best chance of contacting mites therefore controlling due to where mites live.
The addition of a non-ionic surfactant like Agral Spray Adjuvant will aid in ensuring the miticide penetrates.

Go over the entire lawn a couple of times to ensure you have got good coverage. Apply 10-20 ml of product in 3- 5 Litres of water over 100sqm in accordance with the label. Make sure you read the miticide label thoroughly before applying.

Miticides like Agador target the adults and nymph stage of the life cycle in which they spend 90% of their life, giving greater opportunity for effective control.

One application will effectively control 1 life cycle with around a 12-day residual. Repeat application 14 days afterwards maybe required in high pressure situations.

*Miticides are classed as group 6 insecticides, so unless you have the relevant training and certification it is best to get a professional in to apply these products for you.*

Important miticide application notes

Do not apply to turf under heat or moisture stress
Do not apply if rainfall is imminent
Do not apply under slow drying conditions
Do not mix with other fertilisers
Apply by ground boom sprayer or low-pressure hand wand only
Do not apply with a nozzle height greater than 50cm above the ground

Treatment Steps

Apply a miticide such as Agador to kill the couch mites
Lower the mowing height to remove the damaged leaves if possible.
Fertilise the area to encourage new growth
Do NOT allow the turf to dry out, Mites prefer dry turf to well irrigated.
Miticide should be re applied 2 weeks after 1^st application to ensure the mites stay away.

Couch Mites Prevention

If couch mite damage occurs, additional inputs like water, fertiliser and other protection products are required to aid grass recovery. For this reason, preventative treatments with a miticide are recommended rather than treating and repairing an already infested lawn.

Controlling couch mites and bringing your turf back to full health will take time.

The ideal time to treat couch mites in a preventative manner is just prior to a renovation. This will protect the plants prior to them going under stress, this will aid in quicker recovery requiring less inputs.

Or twice a year late spring and mid-summer application as preventatives.

By looking out for the signs and being proactive with early treatment, you will have a better-looking lawn by controlling one of the most destructive warms season grass pests.

5 Summer Sprinkler Solutions

Posted on January 27, 2021January 27, 2021 by Nathan Edwards

Irrigation or sprinkler solutions can be an investment for your lawn, especially throughout dryer seasons, however it can be difficult to determine what is the best choice for you especially when there are many different types on the market.

We have looked into the world of sprinklers to help you find the best choice for you and your lawn size, while considering factors such as cost, coverage and convenience.

Wobble-Tee Sprinkler

The Wobble-Tee Sprinkler works by throwing water in every direction at different distances while rotating in a circular motion. This allows for water to be evenly distributed across your lawn. These sprinklers spray water similar to the way light rain may fall on your lawn. Distributing water in this way helps water soak into the profile of the soil and avoids pooling of water and runoff which can ultimately waste water. The sprinkler also has the ability to connect other sprinklers from the same tap, which is a handy feature when watering over a larger area. The Wobble-Tee Sprinkler price point is higher than other sprinkler options, however they are definitely worth their investment.

Impact sprinkler

Impact sprinklers have two arms, the larger arm spitting water at high pressure and the other hitting the stream of water to distribute evenly. These sprinklers can have a spike that will go into the soil to provide more stability, however, may require a little more time when installing compared to other sprinklers.

Impact sprinklers mostly come with an adjustable arc, which enables you to avoid certain areas in your garden such as kids play equipment. These sprinklers can produce less mist which otherwise can be easily carried away with the wind, allowing for more water to land on your lawn. It is important to also note they can be noisy, depending on the brand and model. These sprinklers do vary in their price point depending on their quality and model. Impact sprinklers are a good option for you if you have a large area to be watered and/or have areas which may need to be avoided.

Oscillating sprinkler

Oscillating sprinklers move in a back and forwards motion across your lawn imitating rainfall. These sprinklers can cover a medium rectangular sized area and are best suited for wide-open areas where no obstacles are where you are wanting to water. Some oscillating sprinklers are not adjustable which may make it more difficult to avoid garden features, such as trees and kids play areas. So, if you are wanting to water a medium sized open area, the oscillating sprinkler is a good option for you.

Stationary sprinklers

Stationary sprinklers are one of the most common types of sprinklers on the market. These sprinklers will usually have a hole at the top where the water is dispersed from and only spread water out to one location. This allows for the targeted area to be watered quickly. Some stationary sprinklers will have adjustable settings to allow you to control where water is released from and what direction they will spray at. These sprinklers are best used for small garden and lawn areas.

Soaker hoses

Soaker hoses have small holes on one side of the hose allowing for water to be distributed across the length of the hose. As these sprinklers do no throw water across an area, less evaporation and water loss will occur compared to other sprinkler types. These sprinklers work best when laid out straight and flat so that water can be dispersed evenly across the selected area. It is also important to note that these sprinklers do have a varying price point, depending on the length, brand and material of the hose. These sprinklers are best used for open lawns or longer narrow lawns such as up the side of the house.

Another more professional and water efficient soaker hose available is the Sumi Soaker. The Sumi Soaker is a lightweight watering solution available in 12.5m length with ready to use fittings perfect for home lawns.

By knowing what type of sprinkler will work best for your lawn and garden area you will be able to water your area more effectively. The best time to water your lawn is early morning or in the late afternoon when there is no wind and less chance for heat related evaporation.

For more information on watering your lawn check out our blog A Complete Guide for Watering Lawns.

Weeds you shouldn’t pull out by hand…

Posted on January 27, 2021September 19, 2024 by Nathan Edwards

‘A weed is just a flower growing in the wrong place’ – This is definitely true in many situations.

One of the quickest and easiest ways to manage many types of weeds is to simply pull them out by hand. If you have some undesirable ‘weeds’ growing in your lawn, then removing them in most cases like this is pretty straight forward. But there are some weeds you shouldn’t pull out by hand.

By doing so, you can actually make the spread of these weeds worse. This is usually as a result of leaving nasty bulbs or nuts behind in the soil, that continue to spread and multiply out of sight before emerging again. A lot of action can be occurring below the ground and it’s important that this is considered before going straight in there for the pull.

If you have any of these particular weeds in your lawn, here’s what you need to know…

Nutgrass

A noxious weed, nutgrass is part of the Sedge weed family which also includes Mullumbimby Couch. Nutgrass gets its name from the nut-like tubers found on the roots (rhizomes) of the plant. This weed is identifiable as it is usually a lighter green than the rest of your lawn and tends to grow taller. Nutgrass has 3 blades that shoot up from the stem and has a triangular stem rather than a circular stem like most grasses.

Treatment

If you find Nutgrass in your lawn, it is best you act quickly before it spreads and becomes almost impossible to remove. If there is only a small amount, you can remove it by digging it out with a small spade, but you have to be extremely diligent with this to ensure there is no roots or bulbs left in the soil, as Nutgrass will reappear if left behind. Simply pulling the nutgrass out by hand will leave these nut-like tubers in the soil, allowing them to continue to spread.

If there is a large amount of Nutgrass in your lawn, you will need to treat it with a selective herbicide such as Sedge Control.

Soursob

Soursobs spread with clover-like leaves along the ground, producing flowers with 5 petals and have a long white tuberous root. Cooler conditions are when Soursobs like to appear in Autumn and Winter. The problem with Soursobs is that they are extremely resilient to herbicides and have a fast-growing system of onion like bulbs growing beneath the surface. In addition to this, they have small secondary bulbs known as bulbils. These bulbils are attached to the root system and each Soursob can have as many as 20 bulbils! When you remove the plant, the bulbils are left behind that then detach and grow into a new plant and the cycle continues.

Treatment

Completely eradicating Soursobs from your lawn will take a bit of time and effort. It is not recommended to remove them by hand, as the bulbils will break off and continue to grow beneath the soil allowing it to reappear. There are also no selective herbicides readily available for domestic lawns that will target the Soursobs, so you will need to take a few other steps to try and remove it. Mowing them off regularly will weaken the plant helping your grass to overcome the infestation. Bulb exhaustion occurs just before flowering, so this is the perfect time to implement your mowing and non-selective herbicide application, when the plant is weak. This is the only stage that physical removal will be an option, by digging up under the plant and removing the soil around it as well.

You will be able to tell the plant is at the exhaustion stage if you carefully dig up a plant – the adult bulb will be shrivelled and the root under the bulb won’t have grown yet or is extremely young and thin. Spot spraying carefully or using a weed wand with an application of Glyphosate (Round Up or Zero) will be your best course of action, but you must be careful when applying as it will kill your turf as well. Acting quickly will also help you to stop them in their tracks before they produce more bulbils.

Onion Weed

Onion weed is a menace in lawns and garden beds right around Australia. It is one of the worst weeds that you can have take-hold in your yard as it is also one of the most difficult to get rid of.

Onion weed is a perennial with thin green strappy leaves growing from a mainly white bulb which gives off an onion smell when crushed. Flowers grow at the top of a long stalk and are mainly white.

Treatment

Eradicating onion weed starts with removing as many of the plants as possible. Do not try to pull the plant out of the ground or shake excess dirt back off into the hole or compost. The small bulblets tend to pull away from the mother plant when pulled, which leaves more bulbs in the ground that will rapidly grow. If possible, dig the weed-clump out of the ground with a spade or a trowel, and throw the entire clump away.

The next step to total eradication of onion weed is to treat the area with either a non-selective herbicide like Roundup or even boiling water.

If you have an extensive problem, onion weed and onion grass (Guildford Grass) can be treated with a selective herbicide called Duke.

5 Basics of Lawn Care

Posted on January 27, 2021March 4, 2021 by Nathan Edwards

Whether you are wanting to keep your lawn looking tidy or wanting to make your lawn the best it can be, here’s some basics of lawn care to get you started.

5 Basics of Lawn Care

Mowing

One of the most simple and easy ways to help maintain a good-looking lawn with little hassle is to regularly mow your lawn. By mowing regularly, your house will not only look great from the street but will help your lawn stay healthy.

In summer, many lawn varieties will grow much faster, so more regular mowing will be required to stay on top of new growth. In winter less mowing will be required as your lawn will grow at a much slower rate as it will become dormant.

To ensure that your lawn is getting a clean-cut, sharp mower blades are a must. If your mower blades are blunt, you can either change the blade yourself or drop your mower off at a mower shop and leave it to the experts.

A general rule of thumb is to only remove a third of the leaf at one time to help reduce the stress of your lawn.

If you are feeling a bit flash, take a look at the Husqvarna Auto Mower range. These machines are great as they will regularly mow and return to its charger by its self, giving you a perfectly manicured lawn without the effort of using a push mower.

Fertilising

Fertilisers are a great way to give your lawn the essential nutrients it needs while encouraging growth.

Although there are many options to choose from when searching for fertilisers, a slow or controlled release fertiliser is a good option as it will release nutrients to your lawn over time, keeping it healthier for longer. We recommend using the slow release Lawn Solutions Premium Lawn Fertiliser.

When applying the fertiliser, it is best to spread the product out as evenly as possible. We recommend using a fertiliser spreader and applying fertiliser in an orderly fashion to achieve an even application. To avoid leaf burn, give the area a good water to ensure none of the product is on the leaf. By doing this it will also help stop curious pets from eating pellets.

With most lawn varieties we recommended that you fertilise your lawn 3-4 times a year.

Weeding

When your lawn is healthy and has strong lateral growth, most weeds can be prevented as the lawn can stop other plant material from growing. So, by focusing on encouraging your grass to become strong and healthy, fewer weeds should appear.

When hand removing weeds, it is important to remember to remove the entire root system, as the weed can make a comeback if roots are left behind. Using a weeding tool such as the Fiskars Weed Puller will help make removal easier.

For common weeds such as Bindii, Creeping Oxalis, Catsear, Clover and Cudweed a broad leaf herbicide such as Lawn Solutions All Purpose Weed Control and Amgrow Bin Die can be used as a treatment option.

When using a non-selective herbicide such as Round-Up (Glyphosate), extra care will be required upon application to ensure only the weed is treated. When applying a non-selective herbicide, we recommend using a weed wand or a small paintbrush to help ensure the product only goes onto the weed and not plant material that you are wanting to keep.

For more information on removing weeds click here.

Watering

When watering there is a few things to keep in mind to ensure your lawn is getting enough water when it needs it.

Water in the morning before the sun heats up. By watering in the morning your lawn will become less susceptible to diseases as the ground will not stay damp for a long period of time. More water will also be able to be absorbed into the soil profile as there will be less evaporation occurring.

Watering your lawn for longer periods of time less frequently will improve the drought tolerance of your lawn. With this type of watering’s your lawns roots are encouraged to grow further down into the profile of the soil and helping the grass to be able to withstand long time periods without water. So, 30-minute watering’s as needed is ideal.

Aeration

Aeration is a simple way to allow your lawn to grow a stronger and more established root system. By aerating your lawn, you will be able to help improve the lawn’s ability to better absorb water.

To aerate your lawn, you can use either a garden fork, lawn aerator sandals, or a tyne aerator. When using a garden fork, we recommend that you drive the fork around 100mm into the soil profile, then wiggle the fork back and forth to help break up the soil.

By staying consistent with your lawn care activities, mowing and watering regularly as required, giving your lawn a feed every now and again, you can ensure you will have a healthy and fantastic looking lawn.

For more lawn care information check out our other blogs here.

Buy Turf Online

Posted on February 16, 2021March 29, 2021 by Nathan Edwards

You can now buy turf online

Lawn Solutions Australia Buy Turf Online allows you to place an order for turf 24 hours a day 7 days a week.

With an Australia wide network, there is a Lawn Solutions Australia Accredited grower or supplier near you.

Buy Turf Online Now

Minimum of 30sqm per order.
Select your preferred delivery date by noting in the delivery instructions. This date will be confirmed pending availability.
Lawn Solutions Australia will make contact the following business day to confirm receipt of your order and date for delivery.
All warranty, invoice, certificate of authenticity and maintenance and installation information will be provided at time of confirmation.
Turf harvested fresh and delivered from local Lawn Solutions Australia accredited turf suppliers.

Choose from any of our 3 premium turf varieties

Need a quote?

Get a quote from up to 3 local suppliers for turf, delivery and/or installation via email. With an Australia-wide network, there is an LSA accredited grower or supplier near you.

Get Turf Quotes

Liquid Lawn Tonics to the Rescue!

Posted on January 27, 2021March 8, 2021 by Nathan Edwards

A great looking lawn is a place everyone enjoys, but not everyone has the time or knowledge to achieve a showcase lawn. This is where liquid ‘lawn tonics’ can come in handy.

Liquid Fertilisers

Liquid fertilisers or ‘lawn tonics’ can provide a quick response from your grass. The nutrients are almost immediately available to be absorbed through the roots or leaves, correcting nutrient deficiencies quickly or giving the plant a general boost through the growing season. You can also use a liquid fertiliser straight after mowing to reduce foliar stress to the cut leaf.

The nitrogen in liquid fertiliser is usually derived from urea, which can be absorbed through the leaves of your lawn. So unlike granular fertilisers, which require a soil-borne reaction at temperature, the liquid fertiliser will give your lawn an instant boost, even when the weather is still quite cool.

If your lawn is a little drought weary, lacking colour or suffering from the harsh climate, then it’s Lawn Rescue… to the rescue!

Lawn Rescue is a premium dual action spray-on liquid fertiliser product designed to restore lawns that have lost colour and appearance due to drought, heat or lack of water and nutrients.

Lawn Rescue contains a blend of liquid fertilisers, seaweed extracts and wetting agents making it the complete treatment to revive your lawn. It is ideal for use during establishment, post establishment and for a boost at any time during the year.

Key Strengths:

Suitable for use on all lawn varieties
Perfect for new and established lawns at any time of year
Contains a wetting agent to help drought proof lawns

When used as a starter fertiliser, it effectively promotes the development of root systems and early turf growth. In established lawns it stimulates, supports and protects root growth and is best used to compliment your granular fertilising regime.

The seaweed extracts work to condition the soil and promote healthy root growth. Then the wetting agents improve your soil’s ability to absorb precious moisture, thus optimising water availability to your lawn.

Analysis:

Nitrogen (N) – 5%
Phosphorus (P) – 7%
Potassium (K) – 2%
Kelp – 7.5%
Polyacrylamide (PAM) – 7.5%
Trace Elements

While liquid fertilisers like Lawn Rescue are great for a quick boost of nutrient or during times of stress, it’s important to consider longer-term health as well. This is why we recommend that you use a granular, slow-release fertiliser like Lawn Solutions Fertiliser about 3-4 times a year, as this will help to maintain the overall health of your lawn for longer periods.

If you are looking for an instant improvement in colour, then another great liquid option is ColourGuard Plus.

Instant Colour Pigments

ColourGuard Plus is a natural pigment, but also a liquid fertiliser. This pigment is absorbed into the leaf where it provides an instant boost in natural colour. If your lawn is growing rapidly, the pigment will be removed when you mow the leaf off next, so ColourGuard Plus is best used when your lawn is growing slowly. This occurs during the hottest periods of summer and again during winter in most areas. For more information on ColourGuard Plus click here.

With a combination of both liquid lawn tonics and granular fertiliser applications throughout the year, your lawn will have everything it needs for healthy leaf growth and root development.