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Author: Sarah
La Niña and Your Lawn
This summer is a bit different from what we’ve had in the past. La Niña has caused cooler day time temperatures, increased rainfall, and warmer temperatures at night, but what effect does this have on your lawn?
Sunlight
With the increased rain, we are getting less sun and more overcast cloudy days – this can cause issues as your grass is not getting the light it needs. Turfgrass needs sunlight to produce sugar. This energy is then used to convert water and carbon dioxide into glucose. After glucose is created it is used throughout the turf for growth. Grass also uses sunlight to produce a pigment called Chlorophyll which in turn makes your lawn green.
Rainfall
If there is an increased amount of moisture in your lawns soil and conditions don’t allow for the area to dry, this can cause diseases to develop in your lawn. Diseases can develop in your lawn when there are damp and humid conditions, common with La Niña.
Tips for your lawn during La Niña;
Aeration
Aeration will help fracture up your soils profile to improve your soils drainage. This will help excess moisture in your soil drain away to help avoid fungal diseases from occurring. To aerate your lawn, you can either use a garden fork or tyne aerator to punch holes into your soil, allowing water to move through the soil profile. This will help stop the pooling of water on your lawn. You can find out more information on aeration here.
Soil health
During periods of extended rainfall, nutrients in your soil can leach and drain away. To help replace these nutrients you can apply a soil conditioner like Lawn Kelper to help replace these nutrients. Lawn Kelper is a natural bio stimulant that enhances nutrient efficiency and encourages beneficial micro-organisms within the soil. Along with the main ingredient Kelp, Lawn Kelper includes a balanced ratio of macronutrients including Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium, with trace elements including iron, manganese, and fulvic acid.
Gypsum and dolomite are also advantageous to be applied to improve soil health.
Mowing
During extended periods of rainfall and overcast skies, your lawn will continue to grow but may become long and straggly (mainly upright leaf growth looking for sunlight).
If the lawn has grown a bit longer than you like between mows it is best to raise your mowing height slightly to avoid scalping the lawn once the rain has finished.
Fertilising
During extended periods of rainfall where you are unable to mow, it is best to stop encouraging extra growth by fertilising your lawn. This will help your lawn grow at a slower rate when it might not be able to get frequent mows.
Plant Growth Regulator (PGR)
Plant growth regulators like Primo Maxx can be used to help slow the growth of your lawn down while you are unable to mow frequently. Please have a look at our blog on PGR’s here for more information.
Irrigation
During La Niña, in most cases you won’t need any additional irrigation to your lawn. While it is raining frequently it is best to turn off your irrigation and stop watering.
Insect and disease pressures
La Niña is also a time where insect and disease pressures are extremely high. For insects, preventative control is your best option. We recommend using a preventative insecticide like Acelepryn GR or Acelepryn Liquid every 6 months.
The most common diseases that occur from rain, overcast conditions, and extended leaf wetness are – dollar spot, grey leaf spot, brown patch, and fusarium. These can be treated with contact and preventive fungicides. Please have a look here for more information.
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How to Calibrate Your Sprayer
When using specialised lawn care products on your lawn, calibrating your sprayer is important to ensure the correct amount of product is applied to your lawn size. In this blog, we look at how to calibrate your sprayer and how to apply a few different commercial grade lawn care products.
Important Note Before Reading:
When applying each of these products, please ensure you are wearing the correct PPE for each product, as stated on the product label.
When using these types of products, always read the label before application.
Different types of sprayers
There is a wide range of different types of sprayers that are on the market. Backpack sprayers are better suited for larger areas as they usually hold a larger amount of water and can be easier to use when spraying for longer. Other handheld sprayers vary in size and design are better suited for medium to small lawn sizes.
As every different type of sprayer and brand of sprayer will disperse water at different rates calibrating your sprayer is important especially when applying commercial grade products.
Why is calibrating your chemical sprayer important?
When applying products to your lawn it is important to ensure you are applying the correct amount of product for your lawn size. This will help avoid either not spraying enough or too much product to your lawn.
How to calibrate your sprayer
To calibrate your sprayer, you will need to find out how much water your sprayer takes to spray 100 m2 and add the label rate of the product to that quantity of water.
To find out how much water your sprayer takes to spray 100m2, best to spray a 10m2 hard surface like concrete and multiply it by 10. From this you can determine that if it’s going to take say 5L of water for you to cover 100sqm, then that’s the required amount of water you need to mix the product with.
When calibrating your sprayer, it is also important to walk at the same speed as this will also affect your calibration.
Best to check your sprayers nozzle regularly for any blockages and wear and tear as this can also affect your sprayer.
Applying Primo Maxx (Plant Growth Regulator)
When applying Primo Maxx, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
For Buffalo, Common Couch and Hybrid Couch add 10 to 40mL of Primo Maxx per 100m2. For Kikuyu add 20 to 80mL of Primo Maxx per 100m2.
Please have a look at the Primo Maxx Label for further information.
Applying Monument Liquid Herbicide
When applying Monument Liquid Herbicide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
The application rates do change for Monument depending on what weed you are wanting to target. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rates for the weed you are targeting. The below details how you can convert mL/ha to mL/100m2.
150 mL/ha (for Nutgrass and Mullumbimby Couch only)
Therefore, 150 mL per 10 000 m2
Therefore, 1.5 mL per 100 m2
Then add 1.5mL of Monument (for Nutgrass and Mullumbimby Couch only) to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.
Please have a look at the Monument Liquid Herbicide Label for further information.
Applying Heritage Maxx Systemic Fungicide
When applying Heritage Maxx, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
For Heritage Maxx, the label rate is:
6L/ha
Therefore, 6L per 10 000 m2
Therefore, 60 mL per 100 m2
Then add 60mL of Heritage Maxx to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.
Please have a look at the Heritage Maxx Label for further information.
Applying Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide
When applying Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
The application rates do change for Duke depending on what weed you are wanting to target. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rates for the weed you are targeting. The below details how you can convert g/ha to g/100 m2.
150g/ha (for Winter Grass and Ryegrass only)
Therefore, 150g per 10 000 m2
Therefore, 1.5g per 100 m2
It is best to mix the herbicide with a small amount of water first to ensure the product is properly dissolved and then add to your sprayer.
Then add 1.5g of Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100 m2.
Please have a look at the Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide Label for further information.
Applying Lawn Solutions Sedge Control
When applying Lawn Solutions Sedge Control, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
For Sedge Control, the label rate is 1.3g/100m2.
It is best to mix the herbicide with a small amount of water first to ensure the product is properly dissolved and then add to your sprayer.
Add the 1.3g of Lawn Solutions Sedge Control to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.
Please have a look at the Sedge Control information guide for further information.
Applying Agador Insecticide
When applying Agador Insecticide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
The application rate for Agador does change for the pest which you were wanting to target.
For Couch Mites use 10 to 20 mL per 100m2. For Ring Nematode and Sting Nematode use 20mL per 100m2.
Please have a look at the Agador Label for further information.
Applying Battle Insecticide
When applying Battle Insecticide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
The application rates do change for Battle depending on what pest you are wanting to target. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rate for the pest you are wanting to treat.
12ml/100m2 (for Lawn Armyworm).
Add 12ml of Battle to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.
Please have a look at the Battle Insecticide Label for further information.
Applying Barricade Pre-emergent
When applying Barricade Pre-emergent, firstly calibrate your sprayer.
The application rates for Barricade do change depending on what weed you are wanting to prevent. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rate for the weed you are wanting to prevent.
1 to 2 L/ha (for Winter Grass)
Therefore 1 to 2L per 10,000 m2
Therefore 10ml to 20ml per 100 m2
Then add 10 – 20ml of Barricade to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.
Please have a look at the Barricade label for further information.
Have a ColourGuard RTU and want to use it in a knapsack?
If you have a ColourGuard hose on bottle and are wanting to apply it through a sprayer, use half the 2L bottle of ColourGuard and apply with 3.5L of water. This will then be able to cover up to 100m2.
When applying each of these products, please ensure you are wearing the correct PPE for each product, as stated on the product label.
When using these types of products, always read the label before application.
How to Create a Backyard Cricket Pitch
The summer of cricket is here! Get your family and friends ready for the ultimate backyard cricket game! In this blog, we run through a few tips on how to make your own backyard cricket pitch.
Preparing your pitch
Preparing a pitch is best done in spring or summer when your grass is actively growing. It is best to avoid mowing low in winter when the turf isn’t actively growing. A pitch is best made on couch varieties, like TifTuf where it can be mown low and will still recover when they are actively growing. Kikuyu and buffalo are also good options. However, on buffalo don’t mow too low as it doesn’t have any rhizomes, which are root-like stems beneath the ground that can produce grass shoots, and growing it back can be a problem.
Choosing your location
The best spot for a pitch is preferably in front of the garage, a fence, or a wall, so you can have an automatic wicketkeeper for one-on-one games. Keep in mind where four runs or six and out will be and where is it best to bowl from.
Once you’ve picked a spot, mark the length of your pitch. If you have older kids, make the pitch longer as your yard allows. For younger kids, you may want to make your pitch a bit shorter.
Mowing your pitch
Now we are on to the next step, mowing your pitch. When mowing your pitch drop the height of your blades on your mower. You need to mow the pitch into the existing lawn nice and short, so you’ll get more bounce. Plus, it will look more like the pitches you see on TV, with a nice contrast to the rest of the yard. Remember though, don’t mow down to dirt or you’ll have a sticky wicket: dead grass!
You may have to mow a few times, depending on how thick your grass is to make your wicket. When mowing it is also best to keep your catcher on to remove your clippings so there is nothing left on the surface.
Setting up your stumps
Once you’ve removed your clippings, it’s time to set up stumps! If you have wooden stumps and bails, knock ‘em into the ground. If you have metal stumps place them in position.
If you want to get more creative, go for the good old council bin, Esky, stack of buckets, or even tape a set of stumps onto the wall or fence.
To make the crease, grab some marking paint and mark the crease at either end. You can make the crease the length of your bat plus its handle.
Aftercare
Once you call stumps for the day, give the pitch an aerate and a deep soak. If there’s excessive wear, you may need to lay off it for a few days for it to recover.
Bonus Tip
Wrap some electrical tape around a tennis ball (half of the ball is covered in tape). This will cause the ball to swing a lot in the air and will really keep the batsman guessing!
Happy batting and bowling.
Getting Ready for Santa | For the Little Lawnies
Are you ready for Santa? It’s time to bring out the Christmas stockings and start getting ready for Santa and his reindeers! In this blog, we take a look at how you can get ready this Christmas for a very special visitor!
Feeling hungry?
On Santa’s big trip around the world, he and his reindeers can work up quite the appetite! We’ve heard from Santa himself that some of his favourite snacks are cookies and cake! Rudolph and the other reindeers love chopped up carrots, apples, and other fresh green veggies. Mum and Dad can help you find some fruit and veggies and get them ready!
Don’t forget the drinks! Santa loves milk with his cookies and won’t say no to beer! The reindeers will also love when water is left out for them to have a drink from on their stop.
Get Santa and the reindeer’s snacks and drinks prepared with Mum and Dad’s help on Christmas eve and leave them out for them to enjoy!
Set up your Christmas stockings
Christmas stockings help Santa know where to put each of our presents! With your Christmas stockings you can add your name, favourite reindeers, or even your favourite Christmas movie characters!
If you have a fireplace, your parents can help you hang your stockings up or you can place them underneath your Christmas tree ready for Santa’s arrival!
Santa Stop Here sign
Put a Santa Stop Here sign out the front of your house, this will help make sure Santa knows exactly where your house is! Mum and Dad should be able to pick one up at your local shops or you can even make one by decorating a cardboard sign and attaching it to a stake! With the helpful hand if an adult you can put your sign out the front of your house ready for Santa’s arrival.
Wrap up any final Christmas presents
Now is the time for any last-minute Christmas gifts to be wrapped up and placed underneath the Christmas tree!
Getting in the Christmas spirit
Pop on your favourite Christmas music, Mariah Carey and Michael Bublé Christmas albums are some of our favourites! Watching some of your favourite Christmas movies with the family is bound to give you the Christmas feels.
Track Santa to see when he is near
With new GPS technology, you are now able to track Santa on Christmas Eve and see where in the world he is! One of our favourite apps to use is Santa Tracker app by Dualverse available in the App Store and Google Play. Ask an adult and they can help you download a Santa Tracking app for you.
You can even track Santa by asking google “where is Santa?” on a Google Assistant device or by the Santa Tracker website.
From all the Lawn Solutions team, we wish you a merry Christmas and a happy new year!
Planning the Ultimate New Year’s Eve Lawn
Are you planning the ultimate New Year’s Eve party or need to get the garden looking good in a hurry and not sure where to start? We’ve put together a guide on how to get your backyard looking great for your New Year’s Eve party!
Getting the lawn ready
Mowing
A quick mow will help get the yard looking tidy for your guests. If it has been left a bit too long over the Christmas period, it is best to bring the height of the lawn back down over a few mows, removing 1/3 of the leaf blade with each mow. This will help avoid causing any extra stress on the lawn.
To help keep the lawn healthy throughout the warmer months regular mowing is key. This will help your lawn maintain a consistent growth pattern and help your lawn become thicker and healthier.
Fertilising
Liquid fertilisers like Exceed will be absorbed almost immediately by the leaf of the grass. This provides a much quicker result than granular fertilisers that are absorbed by the grasses roots. This will help give your lawn a quick boost to help improve colour and thicken up your lawn.
Lawn Pigment
A great way to give your lawn an instant green up without harming your lawn is ColourGuard Plus. ColorGuard Plus is a natural organic lawn pigment that helps provide a natural green colour back onto your lawn, especially if you are in a hurry!
Entertaining
Lighting
Now that you have got the lawn looking great, you can focus on getting entertaining! Lighting is key for entertaining at night and is a great final touch to any outdoor entertaining area!
For illuminating pathways, small garden solar lights on a spike are great as they don’t have any wires that can get damaged. Decorative solar lanterns and are a great feature piece for creating an ambient mood for after dark dinners. Or, if you are after a ‘brighter’ solution, there are lights available that can be mounted up high to light up an entire area.
Fire Pit
A fire pit will put you and your friends marshmallow cooking skills to the test! When using fire pits out on the lawn, find a flat space to help prevent the fire from tipping over. If the fire pit will be out on the lawn, there are a few ways in which you can help avoid scorch marks from forming.
- Fire bricks and pavers will act as a heat shield, preventing the lawn from becoming burnt.
- Lightly water the grass underneath the fire pit and continue to water it throughout the night to prevent scorching.
- Heat resistant shields underneath your fire to reflect heat. These are usually made from aluminium fiberglass.
With this guide, you should have your backyard looking great in no time! From all the Lawn Solutions team we wish you a Happy New Year!
For more backyard inspiration, check out our other blogs here.
Laying a New Lawn in Summer
In summer, warm season turf varieties like buffalo, couch, kikuyu, and zoysia will actively be growing for a quicker establishment. This means your new lawn will be ready to use sooner than you may think! In this blog, we look at how to install and care for a new lawn in summer.
Why lay a new lawn in summer?
The lawn will actively be growing, helping your lawn establish a deep root system fast.
Top tips for laying a lawn in summer
- Install your turf as soon as it is delivered.
- If installing a lawn on a larger area, irrigate sections as soon as the turf is laid and then continue to install the rest of the lawn.
- Give the entire area a really good water after it is laid.
- Once installed water the lawn enough so the roots of the grass stay damp and don’t dry out. Check the turf every few hours to see if it needs another water.
- Once the lawn has started to root down into the soil profile you can start to reduce your watering’s.
Measure out your area
When measuring out an area for turf, it is best to sketch out your area on a piece of paper first. With your sketch, break up the area into basic shapes, then measure and record your measurements. You can then calculate the amount of turf needed by using our online calculator. We recommend adding an extra 5% to factor in cutting the turf into odd shapes in your lawn.
Soil preparation
The first step when preparing your soil is to remove any existing vegetation. We recommend using a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate such as Roundup or Zero. After applying this it can take a few days to take effect. Then give the area a low mow over to remove the dead plant material. Follow up with a repeat application of glyphosate. With some lawns, you may need to 3-4 repeat applications of glyphosate to fully remove all the vegetation. On your final application, hoe and turn over the existing base to de-compact the soil profile.
For most turf varieties, an underlay of 80mm – 100mm of sandy loam (80% sand, 20% loam) is recommended.
Before you do start to lay your lawn, level out the soil underlay with a rake or a lawn leveller.
The thickness of the turf also needs to be considered, especially if you are wanting your lawn to sit flush with concrete or another surface. Turf will usually be cut 30-40mm thick, so you will need to allow extra space for this. For specific measurements on how thick your turf will be cut at, it is best to have a chat with your local turf supplier.
Need a quote for your new lawn?
Laying turf
As turf only has a shelf life of 24 hours once it is cut at the farm, it is best to start laying out your lawn as soon as possible to help prevent the turf rolls from drying out.
Lawn starter fertilisers like Lawn Launcher can be spread out onto the soil before the new turf is laid to help give the lawn an extra boost during its establishment.*When installing TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda in summer we don’t recommend using a starter fertiliser as it is a fast-growing grass.
Start off laying the turf furthest away from your exit to avoid walking over the freshly laid turf. Lay the lawn in a brickwork pattern with the edges butted up against each other while ensuring the roll has good contact with the soil underneath.
Once you have finished laying a section of the lawn out, we recommend irrigating each section straight away to help avoid the turf drying out.
When laying turf around trees or corners, use either a spade or shears to cut the turf to size. Keep any excess pieces till the whole area is completed as you may need them later.
After the lawn is installed, give the whole lawn a good water ensuring the roots and soil are damp.
Aftercare
For the first few weeks after laying your new lawn in summer you will need to keep the water up to the lawn. The number of times you need to water will depend on the weather conditions in your local climate. As a guide, your lawn will need at least 3 short watering’s a day. However, this can change depending on your local climate. For more specific advice on how often you should be watering your new lawn it is best to reach out to your local turf supplier.
After the lawn is fully established, it is best to only water the lawn as it needs. Water in the morning for around 30 mins less frequently will help encourage your lawn to grow down further into the soil profile, improving its drought tolerance. Have a look at our blog for more information on how to tell if your lawn needs a water here.
Your new lawn should be ready for its first mow once the roots of the grass grow down into the soil profile. To see if it is ready, try to lift the corner of a roll of turf from the ground. If you can’t lift the roll from the ground, it is ready to mow. With your first mow, raise the height of the mower on a slightly higher setting than what you would normally mow at. Over the next few mows then slowly bring the height back down.
Once the lawn has been installed for 6 weeks, it should be ready for its first feed. We recommend using a slow release granular fertiliser like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser.
For more specific advice on laying turf in your area, it is best to have a chat with your local turf supplier. You can find who your local suppliers are and their contact details here.
Buffalo and Zoysia
With so many different types of grass available it can be difficult to know which one is right for you, your home, and your family. In this blog, we take a close look at both buffalo and zoysia grasses to help you find your perfect lawn.
Buffalo grass
Buffalo grass is a warm season grass, native to North and South America, parts of Africa, and the Caribbean. Most buffalo varieties on the market in Australia are soft leaf buffalo.
Buffalo grasses have a broadleaf, and only have above ground stems known as solons to establish from.
Zoysia grass
Zoysia is a warm season grass native to Southeast Asia and the pacific region. There are 3 main types of zoysia’s, Zoysia Macrantha, Zoysia Japonica and Zoysia Matrella.
Zoysia grasses have a relatively fine lead of up to 5mm wide and spread by both above and below ground rhizomes and stolons.
Our top pick for buffalo grass
Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo has been born and bred right here in Australia and has stood the test in time. Sir Walter DNA Certified will grow in full sun, in shade, is low maintenance, and has a high wear tolerance, great with pets and kids. This grass is soft to touch, feels great underfoot while looking fantastic!
Our top pick for zoysia grass
Sir Grange Zoysia is a Zoysia Matrella that has a stunning fine leaf that has a beautiful dark green colour. It has a slow growth habit, can be mown short or left unmown, loves full sun and when once established has an excellent shade tolerance. Sir Grange has a densely matted leaf, great for that bowling green look and show garden.
Shade tolerance
Buffalo grasses have a broader leaf that can absorb more sunlight than other varieties. This helps make buffalo one of the most shade tolerant turf types, needing a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct light to thrive.
Zoysia grasses have a much finer leaf and do need more sunlight than other varieties like buffalo. Most zoysia varieties need around 5 hours of direct sun. Sir Grange Zoysia does have a higher shade tolerance than other varieties once established, needing a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct light.
Wear tolerance
Buffalo grasses can handle a good amount of traffic as they have very robust and hardy above ground runners (stolons). However, they will be a bit slower to repair than other varieties like couch and kikuyu as the grass needs to spread back over the area with its above ground stolons.
Zoysia grasses do also have a good wear tolerance. But as zoysia grasses stolons and rhizomes both do grow slower to other grasses they can take longer to repair once damaged.
Mowing
When mowing both couch and buffalo it is best to never remove more than one third of the leaf blade with each mow unless dethatching. This will help avoid causing any extra stress to the lawn.
Buffalo grasses are best mown between 20 to 60mm, a bit higher throughout winter and shorter throughout the warmer months. As buffalo is a warm season variety it will need more frequent mows during the warmer months. In the cooler months, it will slowdown in growth and may only need a mow once every few weeks.
Zoysia grasses, Zoysia Matrella have a leaf blade that contains a high silicon content, making the leaf very strong. When mowing it is best to ensure your mower blades are sharp to help prevent tearing of the leaf. Zoysia’s are best mown between 5-50mm but can also be left unmown. As zoysia grasses are warm season grasses, they will need to be mown more frequently throughout the warmer months.
Irrigation
When installing both buffalo and zoysia, you will need to keep the water up to the lawn, so its roots stay damp while avoiding the turf from becoming waterlogged and drying out. Once established you should only need to water the lawn as it needs. You should be able to tell if the lawn does need a water if the leaves begin to wilt or dry out. Once established less frequent watering’s for longer is usually best. This will help encourage your lawn to grow its roots deeper into the soil, improving its drought tolerance.
For more specific advice on choosing the best grass for you and your home, have a chat with one of your local Lawn Solutions Australia turf suppliers.
Couch and Buffalo
Both Couch and Buffalo grasses are great performers, but how do you know if one variety is better suited to your area? In this blog, we look at the key characteristics of both couch and buffalo grasses to help you choose the right variety for your area.
Buffalo grass
Buffalo grass is a warm season grass, native to North and South America, parts of Africa, and the Caribbean. Most buffalo varieties on the market in Australia are soft leaf buffalo.
Buffalo grasses have a broadleaf, and only have above ground stems known as solons to establish from.
Couch Grass
Couch grass (sometimes called Bermuda) is a warm season grass that is native to most areas of the eastern hemisphere. This grass will have a fast growth rate and is known to be highly drought and wear tolerant.
Couch grasses have a fine leaf. This grass grow from both above ground and below ground runners with a very strong growth habit.
Our top pick for buffalo grass
Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo has been born and bred right here in Australia and has stood the test in time. Sir Walter DNA Certified will grow in full sun, in shade, is low maintenance, and has a high wear tolerance, great with pets and kids. This grass is soft to touch, feels great underfoot while looking fantastic!
Our top pick for couch grass
TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda has a superior drought tolerance, is tough, and has a speedy recovery if damaged. TifTuf has a beautiful soft fine leaf, is well suited to full sun areas, is very drought tolerant, is great for use in high wear areas. This grass is a great choice for the home lawn whether you are wanting to keep an immaculate lawn or need a grass to keep up with the pets and kids!
Shade Tolerance
Buffalo grasses have a broader leaf that can absorb more sunlight than other varieties. This helps make buffalo one of the most shade tolerant turf types, needing a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct light to thrive.
Most couch grasses have a finer leaf and love full sun areas. Couch needs a bare minimum of 5-6 hours of direct light to perform well.
Wear Tolerance
Wear tolerance does look at a few characteristics of the grass. These are how much traffic an area can handle before it gets damaged and how quickly it can repair itself if damage does occur.
Buffalo grasses can handle a good amount of traffic as they have very robust and hardy above ground runners (stolons). However, they will be a bit slower to repair than other varieties like couch and kikuyu as the grass needs to spread back over the area with its above ground stolons.
Couch grasses are too able to handle a good amount of traffic and have a fast-repairing nature. Their fast-repairing nature comes from having both above and below ground stolons to repair itself from.
Mowing
When mowing both couch and buffalo it is best to never remove more than one third of the leaf blade with each mow unless dethatching. This will help avoid causing any extra stress to the lawn.
Buffalo grasses are best mown between 20 to 60mm, a bit higher throughout winter and shorter throughout the warmer months. As buffalo is a warm season variety it will need more frequent mows during the warmer months. In the cooler months, it will slow down in growth and may only need a mow once every few weeks.
Couch grasses do have a fast growth habit and will require more frequent mowing than buffalo varieties in the warmer months. It can be mown as short as 4mm or let to grow out to 36mm. Couch too is a warm season variety, needing frequent mows in the warmer months.
Irrigation
Both couch and buffalo grasses do have a good drought tolerance. Once a lawn is established you should only need to water the lawn when it needs it. If you do need to irrigate, give the lawn a good soaking for around 30 mins. Once established less frequent watering’s for longer is usually best. This will help encourage your lawn to grow its roots deeper into the soil, improving its drought tolerance. Signs that your lawn needs water include wilting or drying out leaves. Buffalo grasses will also have a curled leaf.
TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is an extremely drought tolerant couch variety, requiring considerably less water to maintain its appearance. TifTuf is also the only grass in Australia to be awarded the Smart Approved WaterMark for its low water requirements.
For more specific advice on choosing the best grass for you and your home, have a chat with one of your local Lawn Solutions Australia turf suppliers.
How to Create a Home Putting Green
Are you a keen sports enthusiast and want to practice your putting skills at home? We have put together a couple of tips on how you can create a putting green at home!
Finding the right space
Firstly, check out your front or back yard. You will need an area of between 20-40 square meters that is free from shade.
Turf underlay
Construction is very important. If you get the soil profile correct the green will thrive.
Mark out the area and design of the putting green, remember it doesn’t have to be a circle or rectangle, your design will be unique for your yard. Once marked out remove current turf or vegetation from this area, it is then advisable to remove around 100mm of soil. The growing media for a putting green is USGA Sand (high quality, refined sand) or similar.
Then bring in enough USGA Sand or similar to replace 100mm removed plus another 100mm. This extra soil can be used to shape your surface for ball roll and to make the putting green higher than the rest of your yard. After this, then incorporate organic material into the top 50mm of your surface (composted chicken or cow manure is ideal).
Once you are happy with the shape and you have levelled around the edges to blend into the yard you are ready to start thinking about the next stage.
Choosing your putting green grass
The next step in creating your home putting green is to do some research on grasses that are suitable for putting surfaces, more so in the climate you live in. Visit your local golf course and ask what varieties they use for their putting greens. Most golf courses use either bent grass, couch, or zoysia. Some of the newer zoysia varieties are really an excellent option – less pressure from disease, fewer nutrient inputs, and super fine leaf blades for putting. Some of these zoysia varieties are Trinity Zoysia and Primo Zoysia.
Planting your putting green
Ideally, you want to plant your green from sprigs or stolons (small pieces of grass that will grow and spread across the surface). To plant your green, you will need around 15-25kg of sprigs to cover a 50 square meter area. Once evenly spread across the surface slightly rake into the soil profile. It is important to keep these sprigs damp for the next 2 weeks or until you start to see green shoots and taking root. It is suggested to use a granular turfstarter type of fertiliser weekly for the first 4-10 weeks. The NPK of an ideal turfstarter fertiliser is around 12-10-9. At the 6-week mark you can apply a granular organic fertiliser that will help with the same beneficial humus and moisture holding capacity.
The estimated grow in period will be around 12 -14 weeks based on the timing of planting (spring is ideal). Once you have 50% coverage it would be recommended to start mowing just to remove 1/3 of the leaf blade. This will encourage the grass to grow vertically and cover across the ground. At the 90% coverage stage it is recommended to top dress with the same sand used in construction. This will help to finish off the surface and give a smooth putting surface.
Mowing
When mowing your home putting green, we recommend using a cylinder mower to help get a better cut. The more you mow your green, the more the playing surface will tighten and the smoother it will get.
Fertilising
It is recommended you fertilise the green 3 times a year, once in April, September, and January. It is ideal to use greens grade fertiliser (low cut turf fertiliser) with an NPK 21-1-9. This can be purchased from a professional turf supply company.
With regular mowing and maintenance work, your at home putting green will help you up your golfing skills ready for the course!
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