Nathan Edwards, Author at Lawn Solutions Australia - Page 9 of 10

Author: Nathan Edwards

What are Plant Growth Regulators?

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

Stadium quality turf with PGR’s

We know many of you are always looking for ways to take your lawns to the next level. One way to do this is by using what the turf professionals use, Plant Growth Regulators. Used on golf courses and sports grounds across the world, Plant Growth Regulators commonly known as PGR’s, are now available in an economical size to use in your own back garden.

In this article we focus in on the benefits of plant growth regulators, Primo Maxx by Syngenta specifically, that can help your lawn perform like stadium quality turf.

What is a Plant Growth Regulator or PGR?

A PGR is an innovative solution that influences a plant’s growth and development.

Recent types of PGRs, such as Syngenta’s turf growth regulator Primo Maxx are formulated as a micro emulsion concentrate that quickly enters the leaves and shoots before systemically moving throughout the entire plant.

primo maxx
Primo Maxx

Better looking lawns, faster:

  • Reduces grass growth: reduced mowing.
  • Less bare patches: improved aesthetic.
  • Greener grass.
  • The best-looking edges with less work.
amigo pgr
Amigo PGR

Once absorbed, the active ingredient works to temporarily block the plant’s ability to produce a growth hormone called Gibberellic Acid. This suppresses the plant’s vertical growth while allowing normal processes like photosynthesis and respiration to continue.

Energy is diverted into the plant’s lateral growth, resulting in smaller and finer leaves, increased tillering, and a larger, deeper root mass. The turf becomes denser with a more vibrant colour.

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Save water with PGRs

Regular PGR application ticks a lot of sustainability boxes, the biggest one being greener grass with less water requirements.

PGRs like Primo Maxx improve water management efficiency by encouraging the stomates (pores) of a plant to close for longer periods, which slows down the rate of water lost through transpiration.

Control growth and mow less

Slowing down turf growth also decreases the need to mow, which in turn reduces waste and makes maintenance practices far more sustainable. Applying Primo Maxx to turfgrass effectively holds back vertical grass growth within 3 to 4 weeks of initial application.

PGR results

Stand up to turf stress and extreme heat

Increased temperatures add to turf stress in all situations, resulting in an undesirable loss of colour, turf density and quality.

Build a tougher lawn:

  • Increased root density: drought resistance & improved lawn resilience
  • Increased density: improved shade tolerance
  • Increased durability: hardier under children and pet use

The main reason is that PGR applications like Primo Maxx increase the level of bioactive cytokinin’s in the plant, improving its tolerance to heat and drought-induced stress. This allows the turf to recover faster from drought effects, extreme heat, or stress from high traffic and heavy play.

PGR TIP:

The right application is always key to achieving good results with a PGR, so it’s important to track the growth rate of your turfgrass alongside the rate of PGR application. When using Primo Maxx for the first time leave an area to the side untreated so you can compare the results of your application.

What does Primo Maxx do?

Primo Maxx forces the grass to grow thicker instead of taller. The lateral stems become fuller as the colour of the lawn becomes a nicer shade of green. Your lawn will not only be lush and attractive, it will have what it needs to stay that way.

primo maxx
Primo Maxx

Primo Maxx Promotes deeper, stronger roots

Instead of using energy on growth, it uses it on creating healthier roots

Primo Maxx Improves water use efficiency

The grass makes the most of the water it receives, whether rain or irrigation, less water use

Primo Maxx helps turf tolerate shade

Shady areas naturally grow thin; Primo assist with this.

Primo Maxx creates stronger, denser turf

Stronger, denser turf resists wear and disease better and helps suppress weeds.

  • Promotes denser, healthier turf that is better able to withstand a variety of stresses including heat, drought, diseases and traffic.
  • Slows the production of gibberellic acid, a plant hormone that promotes cell elongation. Vertical shoot growth is slowed, while lateral and below-ground growth of rhizomes, stolons, tillers and roots is stimulated.
  • Reduces mowing by up to 50%.
  • Is claimed to supress Winter grass growth.
  • Cuts mowing in half, reduces seed head production, fertilizer use, watering and clipping yield, makes lawns look great with half the work or for less than 3 cents a square metre.

Golfers Love Sir Grange Zoysia

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

The Award Winning BRF Zeon Zoysia (Sir Grange Zoysia) receives high praise at Teven Valley Golf Course.

Situated in northern New South Wales, Teven Valley Golf Club is a beautiful nine-hole course with a couple of creeks and a river adjacent where platypus swim. In February 2016 a plan was tabled to complete a 9-hole, 18-tee revamp, with Australian golfer Craig Parry entrusted with its design.

Initially the intention was to close the course during construction, but due to members’ love for ‘Royal Teven’ and their wanting to continue to play, it was decided to build the project hole by hole. The construction team consists of Paul Gumbleton, a former Monash Country Club superintendent and Bob Simmons, assistant superintendent of Kingston Heath for over 30 years. They considered a few turf options, ultimately deciding Sir Grange (BRF Zeon Zoysia) was the right variety for the course.

“We visited the Lawn Solutions Australia stand at the AGCSA [Australian Golf Course Superintendents Association] Twin Waters conference,” Paul said, “and saw TifTuf and Sir Grange – two new options, then went and visited Indooroopilly Golf Club to inspect what they had done with zoysia. I did some research on the net and found out what golf professionals were saying about playing on Zeon Zoysia courses – Adam Groom and Marcus Fraser. Still with an open mind, I contacted Daleys Turf, who the next day came down to Teven with a sample of each for me.”

“Once Craig saw that Sir Grange was available in Australia, he said ‘If that’s available here in Australia, then that’s what we want’; Craig had played on it in the USA and loved it.”

Economics played a part in the final decision, Mr Gumbleton said. “Long-term cost saving, plus it was the best option for Teven – we have a unique golf course and wanted it to be special,” he said.

Daleys Turf Director Terry Daley said Sir Grange met all the project’s site requirements. “It’s got two freshwater creeks with platypuses in the creeks, so environmentally it was extremely sensitive, and Sir Grange ticked all the boxes for that. It could control the run-off, it’s a dense mass, so it worked really well for that site, which is a red volcanic soil site. It’s probably one of the best growing mediums you’ll ever get.”

Mr Gumbleton said his team “haven’t wasted one slab of turf; the strength is incredible”.

“It does take longer to establish; the secret is water heaps in the first six weeks,” he said. “Once it starts to take root, job done.”

“Greenkeeper’s choice … easiest grass to maintain once established – less inputs, less mowing and the course also looks good.”

“At Teven during the reconstruction the players/members only want to play on the new course. They would prefer to play the holes twice on the new course and not on the old course. Golfers love the Sir Grange.”

 The Lawn Solutions Australia network of Australian turf farmers have an extensive R&D program that includes partnerships with some of the world’s leading turfgrass research facilities. Sir Grange Zoysia is a successful product of these turfgrass breeders and has been catching the worldwide turf market by storm.

Sir Grange is sold in the USA and Asia under the trademark of BRF Zeon Zoysia. BRF Zeon Zoysia has been used on many world-famous projects, including the Rio Olympics Golf Course and on Michael Jordon’s Grove 23 golf course.

Recently, Hoiana Shores Golf Course in Vietnam, featuring BRF Zeon Zoysia, was named the Best New Course to open worldwide for the year 2020.

 

Sir Grange Golf Course

Sir Grange (BRF Zeon Zoysia) can be found on many high-end sites in Australia including Teven Valley Golf Course, Killara Golf Course and Indooroopilly Golf course.

Sir Grange Zoysia is the only licenced and pure source of BRF Zeon Zoysia in Australia. For more information visit – https://lawnsolutionsaustralia.com.au/sportsturf/

Sir Grange Logo

Winter Grass still a pain in the …. ?

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

Prepare your lawn with Winter Grass prevention!

We are now in the warmer months, but you still have signs of the dreaded Winter Grass. We get people asking us how to get rid of it, but by now the chook has well and truly flown the coop and treating the Winter Grass will only provide temporary relief before it appears again during the cooler months next year. Winter Grass will die back as the temperatures rise, so treating now with Winter Grass Killer will speed up the process, but it’s not going to provide a permanent solution.

Once Winter Grass goes to seed (which it definitely will have done by now) it’s almost inevitable that it will return, taking you right back to where you started again next year. So make sure you use a catcher if Winter Grass is present whenever you mow to try and limit spreading these seeds further.

It may be too late to put a permanent stop to Winter Grass now, but there is another solution…

Oxafert Pre-Emergent Herbicide and Fertiliser.

oxafert

Oxafert prevents Winter Grass emergence by targeting the weed seeds as they germinate. This means you can treat winter grass before it actually appears at all. This can provide a really important step to tackling winter grass and putting a stop to the annual occurrence. By applying Oxafert in Autumn you can get a jump on the winter grass before it spreads throughout your lawn once again.

Winter grass is a prolific seeder so if left unattended it can spread ferociously. The saying ‘one year of seeds, 7 years of weeds’ perfectly summarises what winter grass can be like in a lawn. Some lawns have a seed bank built up in the soil as a result of this prolific seeding and it can take quite a few years to get on top of it again.

So, if you have a bad infestation, a combination of both pre-emergent in Autumn and post emergent for treatment throughout winter will put you back on the front foot and should see you eliminate it from your lawn.

Put it in your calendar for Autumn now – ‘Apply Oxafert to lawn’

This time next year you will be glad you did.

12 Mowing tips For the Perfect Cut Every Time

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

A few simple tips on mowing your lawn will go a long way to ensuring you get a nice even cut, without ripping, scalping or smothering the lawn each time you give the grass its regular haircut.

  1. Healthy mowing height for your lawn

Don’t mow your lawn too short, as this can put your lawn under extreme stress. It can leave brown or bare looking patches on your lawn, and if cut too short regularly, can seriously deplete the lawn’s energy reserves and is an open invitation for weeds to invade and seed. A good guide is the ‘one-third rule’ – only remove one-third of the leaf each time you mow.

mowing height

Guideline for ideal mowing heights

(General rule of thumb: shorter for summer, longer for winter)

Green couch:                                          5 to 30mm

Buffalo grass (Sir Walter):                    30 to 50mm

Kikuyu:                                                    30 to 50mm

Zoysia matrella (Sir Grange):               5 to unmown

Queensland blue couch:                       5 to 30mm

Broadleaf carpet grass:                         30 to 50mm

Hybrid Bermuda (TifTuf):                     5 to 30mm

Fescue:                                                     30 to 50mm

  1. Don’t let your clippings build up

It is ok to leave your clippings on the lawn every now and again, as clippings are a great source of nitrogen and can act as a natural fertiliser for your lawn. Recycling your grass clippings back into your lawn can actually account for 25% of its annual nitrogen requirements.

If you are using a regular mower you should only be leaving small amounts of clippings every so often. If you have a mulching mower which cuts the clippings up much finer, then it is ok to leave the clippings on your lawn, so long as they aren’t left in clumps and they are evenly distributed.

You definitely need to take the type of grass you have into consideration when deciding whether to catch your clippings. If you have a couch lawn and are looking for a manicured finish, it’s always best to catch your clippings. If you have a buffalo or kikuyu lawn, you can generally follow the instructions provided above.

grass clippings

  1. Change up your mowing direction

Mowing in different directions not only minimises ‘mownotony’, it also contributes to a healthy lawn by encouraging the individual blades to grow straight, which in turn provides more space for new blades to grow. Ultimately, this gives you a thicker lawn.

  1. Avoid cross contamination

If you have a different grass in one area, say front to back, wash or clean down your mower before transitioning to the other grass type. Some grasses like kikuyu for example, can be easily transported into other varieties where they can quickly start to invade and spread. Ideally you should try to install the same grass in all areas if you are looking to keep your grass variety clean.

  1. Keep a consistent pace

If you want a consistent cut, you need to stick to a consistent pace when mowing. If you race over one area and are much slower in another, the grass is likely going to be cut inconsistently with bouncing and movement creating differentiation in the height of cut.

  1. Keep your mower blades sharp

Keep your mower well maintained; sharp blades are crucial for a good cut. Blunt blades tend to tear, rather than cut the lawn.

  1. Cylinders or reels will provide a cleaner cut

Reel mowers, cylinder mowers in particular, will have a better quality of cut due to the slicing ‘scissor’ action. This action is superior to that of the chopping action of a rotary mower, when comparing both with sharp well-maintained blades.

cylinder mower

Having said this, a rotary mower with sharp blades and decent power produces a good enough cut that most people would be happy with.

  1. Mow when the lawn is dry

Rain is great for fertilising, but not ideal for mowing. Mowing when the grass is wet can damage the leaf blades as they will tear rather than cut, leaving an uneven edge. This can give a ‘chopped’ look to your lawn. Wait until the lawn has dried out after rain or irrigation before you mow.

  1. Don’t mow during heat of the day

When mowing, do so earlier in the day or as the sun has started to go down again. The hot sun in the middle of the day is more likely to do damage to the freshly cut lawn, so doing so when it is cooler will cause less stress to the leaf.

  1. Mow your lawn regularly

Avoid long periods between mows – regular mowing is best. Keep in mind that your mowing routine may also need to change with the seasons. Warm season varieties like Kikuyu and Couch, for example, love hot summers and will have vigorous growth during this time. Regularly mowing your lawn promotes lateral growth and allows more of the sun’s rays to get amongst the leaf of your lawn.

  1. A bumpy lawn will be an uneven lawn

If you have lumps or depressions in your lawn it can be a good idea to top dress your lawn. During the active growing season is the best time. Information on top dressing can be found here. Levelling and topdressing will help to ensure a more even cut with less scalping.

  1. Consider mowing frequency when selecting a turf variety

Consider the amount you are willing to mow when choosing a turf variety. Some types of grass will require more frequent mowing than others. Mowing frequency will be an important aspect of maintaining a healthy lawn.

grass types

Anything we have missed?

Let us know what mowing tips you have found works best on your lawn.

Clover or Oxalis?

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

Clover or Oxalis?

How to tell the difference

These two weeds, clover and oxalis, are commonly misidentified due to their similar leaf appearance, but they are different plants.

While treatment for both can be the same in many instances, it is important to understand how each of them grows so you can take action to prevent them from infiltrating your lawn again. There are also a many different species of oxalis that can be particularly tricky to eradicate from your lawn. This is why identification can be the key to success.

The main difference between clover and oxalis is that oxalis has small light green heart shaped leaves, while clover has oval shaped leaves.

White Clover (Trifolium repens)          Common Oxalis/Yellow Wood sorrel (Oxalis Stricta)

white clover                      oxalis

Clover (Trifolium)

Clover is the common name for plants of the genus Trifolium, which consists of over 300 different species.

The clover commonly found in Australian lawns has leaves with three leaflets (4 if you’re lucky!) with circular markings and creeping stems that set roots at the point they touch the ground. The flower that it produces can be white or pink depending on the species (Trifolium repens, Trifolium fragiferam).

Treatment:

Clover is a legume that draws nitrogen from the air and stores it in its roots, so it doesn’t require a large amount to grow. Because of this, clover in your lawn can be a sign of nitrogen deficiency in your soil. When there is sufficient nitrogen in the soil for your lawn, clover will be much less likely to survive. As a result, an application with a lawn fertiliser high in nitrogen can assist in removing clover from your lawn.

A selective herbicide such as Lawn Solutions Australia All Purpose Weed Control, Estate Herbicide or Bin Die if you have available. Estate Herbicide 250ml Concentrate has recently been introduced to replace the recently discontinued product Bin Die Concentrate.

Oxalis (Oxalidaceae)

Oxalis, also known as wood-sorrel, is a genus of plants with green or purple leaves and many variations in flower colour including white, pink or yellow. Below we focus on the common species found in Australian lawns.

Creeping Oxalis (Oxalis Corniculata)

Creeping Oxalis, as its name suggests, quickly runs along the surface of the soil and produces roots from the leaf as it goes and creeps under and through your lawn. When seed pods mature, they dry out and explode, causing the seed to spread. It is a very invasive and nasty weed, so it’s important to take action against it as soon as possible.

creeping oxalis weed

Treatment:

Creeping Oxalis is difficult to remove as crowns break off leaving roots for re-growth. You can hand remove small plants or dig out sections where you need to if they aren’t particularly large. If there is a substantial spread of creeping oxalis through your lawn, you will get better results by spraying your lawn with a selective herbicide.

A selective herbicide such as Lawn Solutions Australia All Purpose Weed Control or Estate Herbicide will help to eradicate Creeping Oxalis in all lawn types including kikuyu and couch and are safe to use on most varieties of buffalo except the ST varieties.

Soursob (Oxalis Pes-caprae)

Soursobs spread with leaves along the ground, producing large yellow flowers with 5 petals and a long white tuberous root.

soursobs

The problem with Soursobs is that they are extremely resilient to herbicides. They have a fast-growing system of onion like bulbs growing beneath the surface. In addition to this, they have small secondary bulbs known as bulbils. These bulbils are attached to the root system and each Soursob can have as many as 20 bulbils! When you remove the plant, the bulbils are left behind that then detach and grow into a new plant.

More information on Soursob here.

Kikuyu Grass in Focus

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

Kikuyu Grass

Pronunciation

Kuh koo yoo

Pennisetum Clandestinum

Kikuyu grass is native to the highland regions of East Africa. Kikuyu is most well known for being a highly invasive and aggressive grower and it is this trait that makes it suitable in some cases as a home lawn.

With the ability to perform in most Australian climates, Kikuyu can stand up to a wide range of conditions. Kikuyu can be a good option for both home lawns and larger spaces such as racecourses or parks and is also used as pasture for livestock grazing. It was introduced into Australia for this reason, as a robust pasture grass for cattle.

If you’re looking for a grass that is an economical all-rounder, then Kikuyu could be an option for you.

Kikuyu grass

Key Characteristics

Kikuyu thrives in a sunny aspect and handles full sun. It is able to establish a strong, deep root base which helps it stand up to the hot summer days and provides acceptable drought tolerance.

  • Strong, deep root base
  • Poor shade tolerance
  • Highly invasive, quick repairing
  • Acceptable drought tolerance

Kikuyu spreads through vigorous growth by both stolons and rhizomes, making it a common option for larger areas and for erosion control. Due to its strong vertical and sub-surface growth habits, it can easily invade and spread throughout your garden and becomes very difficult to control.

Kikuyu can grow in a wide range of soil types, but performs at its best in fertile, light to medium textured soil with moderate drainage and salinity levels. The ideal soil pH for Kikuyu is 5.5-7.0, but it can tolerate levels as low as 4.5.

Being a warm season turf variety, Kikuyu prefers growing temperatures between 15 and 25 degrees Celsius but can manage in conditions much hotter. During winter, Kikuyu will go into a certain level of dormancy and will stop growing when exposed to frost.

Kikuyu is not a great performer in low light or shaded areas and will require at least 5-6 hours of direct sunlight in order to thrive. 

Important points for installation of Kikuyu Grass

  • Install the grass as soon as possible after delivery
  • Lay on a bed of 100mm of quality turf underlay
  • Use Lawn Solutions Australia Lawn Launcher at label rates to give the grass a head start and retain moisture in the new soil bed
  • Roll to compact new turf to improve contact with the soil
  • Soak the newly laid turf thoroughly for 10-14 days after installation or until established
  • Reduce irrigation once established and water only when the grass appears to be dry
  • Minimise irrigation in the cooler months to avoid your lawn getting waterlogged
  • Consult your local supplier for seasonal advice on installation timing in cooler regions 

Kikuyu Grass Maintenance

Irrigation

it is important to be mindful of correct and efficient irrigation practices to maintain a healthy kikuyu lawn.

  • If watering is necessary once established, water only when there are signs of the grass drying out, e.g. wilted leaves
  • Do not water in the cooler winter months unless there are signs of the above
  • If irrigation is needed, deeply soak the top 100mm of soil (generally 30 minutes with a standard sprinkler will suffice)
  • Water early morning for improved efficiency and plant health

Mowing

Kikuyu will require frequent mowing throughout the warmer months due to its aggressive growth habits. It’s important you mow regularly to ensure you don’t remove more than one third of the leaf in one pass.

  • Ensure that mower blades are sharp to prevent tearing of the leaf
  • Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any one time unless dethatching
  • Dethatch if required in late spring for best results

Fertilising

Kikuyu is known to be highly responsive to nitrogen and can see a strong flush of leaf growth when a high amount of nitrogen is applied. For this reason, we recommend applying a slow release fertiliser during the warmer months to ensure leaf growth doesn’t quickly get out of hand.

  • Apply slow release granular fertiliser at a rate of 20-25g/m2 or 2-2.5kg/100m2
  • For best results, fertilise at least 3 times per year. Important dates are late spring, mid to late summer and late autumn
  • Always irrigate after applying fertiliser
  • On new lawns, apply fertiliser after you have cut your lawn at least once

Weed and pest control

Most domestically available chemical weed and pest control products can be used on kikuyu lawns. However, most Winter Grass killer herbicides are not safe to use on Kikuyu and the use of Paspalum herbicides (containing DSMA) are limited to spot treatment only.

It is always best to read the label and check with your supplier for recommended products before any application.

Although a Kikuyu lawn’s initial cost can be lower than other varieties, it is important to consider the long-term maintenance and upkeep costs associated with this type of grass.

If you think Kikuyu is the right choice for your lawn, you can’t go past Australia’s number one Kikuyu Grass – Eureka Kikuyu. Eureka Kikuyu is available Australia-wide and is suitable for a wide range of areas.

Eureka Kikuyu Premium VG Grass is another great option if you are in Victoria as it has an improved ability to cope with the cooler winters than other types of kikuyu. This variety is exclusively available from Lawn Solutions Australia accredited turf suppliers in Victoria only.

You can find contact details for your local supplier here.

How to repair a thin and patchy lawn

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

If you have a patchy lawn, there are a few things you can do to make the path to recovery a lot easier and quicker.

Most warm season lawns will spread laterally, thickening up and recovering with some care and attention – These include couch, buffalo, zoysia and kikuyu.

Here’s where to start…

Rake out the dead material

When the grass dies, for whatever reason, the dead material is left in the patch or sward of the grass to decompose slowly. To help your lawn thicken up again and recover quicker, rake out as much of this material as you can. This will provide space for the healthy grass to spread back through and also help more sunlight, water and oxygen to penetrate boosting the health of the grass in these areas.

patchy lawn

Aerate with a garden fork

Aerating will help to decompact the hard-bare ground making it easier for the healthy grass to spread its roots into the bare soil. Drive a garden fork into the ground to around 100mm and wriggle it back and forth to fracture the soil profile. If you have subsoil irrigation be careful that you don’t do so too deeply or where you are likely to come in contact with a pipe. After aerting can also be a good time to apply soil conditioners like gypsum to improve your soil base.

aerating

Treat the weeds

Weeds will be taking up space in the lawn making it difficult for the grass to thicken, so now is the time to get on top of them. Spray the appropriate broadleaf herbicide, dig the easy ones out by hand and persevere while the lawn is vulnerable to ensure you get on top of them and prevent further spread.

weed removal

There is also a way to prevent some weed types from appearing at all. A pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert targets weed seeds before they take hold by forming a barrier at soil level that stops the germination of any new seedlings. Pre-emergents can be used in the prevention of Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crowsfoot and Crab Grass.

Your lawn may also be affected by invading grasses like kikuyu or couch. For tips on removing unwanted grasses from your lawn click here.

Lightly topsoil

Now you don’t want to smother an already unhealthy lawn, but a light amount of topsoil in the bare and patchy areas can bring the levels up making it easier for the healthy areas to spread across. Topsoil will improve the soil profile, improving drainage and providing nutrient to help strengthen the lawn. Make sure you water it in really well after application, so it assists rather than hinders the growth of your lawn.

Fertilise

Any weeds that were there have now been treated or removed, so you can go ahead and feed the lawn without having to worry about feeding the weeds as well. A good quality slow release granular fertiliser will have a good mix of everything your lawn needs to get it kicking along again on the path to recovery.

fertilise

Water your lawn

Once you have fertilised your lawn, you need to water it down into the profile really well where it can go to work and where it won’t burn the leaf of your grass. Watering over the coming weeks will help the grass to grow as strongly as it can and with some good sunshine your grass should see a lot of growth and improvement.

Mow regularly

You have gone through a bit of hard work above to get the grass humming along again, which will likely mean a bit more mowing. This part is important in ensuring that your lawn stays on the path to recovery. Regularly mowing your lawn will encourage lateral growth further thickening the profile of your lawn. A thicker lawn will also be a lot better at restricting weeds growth and will be more resilient to disease related issues. If you mow regularly at your normal mowing height, you should also avoid removing more than one third of the leaf blade off in one pass.

mowing height

Simple lawn care principles to avoid a patchy lawn

Once your lawn is back to full health and not patchy some simple lawn care undertaken seasonally should keep it from deteriorating like it did before.

For more information on any of the lawn care areas we have covered above, click on the links below:

Turf Talk – March 2021

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

TurfTalk – Australia’s newest and most comprehensive turf magazine.

TurfTalk is a free quarterly magazine and distributed to over 3000 landscape and turf professionals.

TurfTalk is suitable for all turf professionals, from turf growers to landscapers, golf courses and sports ground curators, to government and related industry organisations.

TurfTalk is here to share with you the latest information on the turf industry, the exciting developments in turf research and to keep you up to date with everything you need to know about turf.

Some topics in this issue include:

  • TIFTUF Travels to Dubai
  • World’s First Trinity Bowling Green
  • Teven Valley GC Stunning Completion
  • Cricket PNG Growing 1st Class Turf
  • AusGAP Turf Scholarships 2021

Click here to download a pdf copy.

For more information:

Phone – 1300 883 711

Email – news@turftalk.org.au

Turf Talk – December 2020

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

Turf Talk – Australia’s newest and most comprehensive turf magazine.

TurfTalk is a free quarterly magazine and distributed to over 3000 landscape and turf professionals.

TurfTalk is suitable for all turf professionals, from turf growers to landscapers, golf courses and sports ground curators, to government and related industry organisations.

TurfTalk is here to share with you the latest information on the turf industry, the exciting developments in turf research and to keep you up to date with everything you need to know about turf.

Some topics in this issue include:

  • Coolabah Turf Rises with the Tide
  • Home of the Tampa Bay Buccaneers
  • Central Coast Stadium
  • Whitton Malt House gets TIFTUF
  • TPI & Global Turf Production

Click here to download a pdf copy.

For more information:

Phone – 1300 883 711

Email – news@turftalk.org.au

Introducing ProPlus Natural Carbon Fertiliser

Posted on by Nathan Edwards

Professional Extended Release Mini-Prill Fertiliser

proplus carbon fertiliser

NPK – 17-0-3 + S

Lawn Solutions Australia’s ProPlus Natural Carbon Fertiliser is a professional extended-release mini-prill fertiliser. This newly developed natural carbon based fertiliser minimises leaching by binding nutrients to naturally occurring carbon and is suitable for all lawn types.

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  • Improves soil structure and reduces leaching of nutrients
  • Increases water retention – helps retain up to 20 times its weight in water
  • Extended-release up to 90 days – bonding nutrients using peat moss
  • Contains nitrogen, potassium, sulphur and other essential micronutrients

Continue reading “Introducing ProPlus Natural Carbon Fertiliser”