In times of drought we can all do our bit to ease the pressure on our water suppliers. One way is to install a water tank, which can collect rain when it does eventually fall. A tank provides many benefits, including lowering the use of mains water, helping with water restrictions, assisting in times of bushfires and preventing stormwater run-off. However, before you shower yourself in these rewards there are several things to know and consider.
The most important thing to know is that setting up a tank is not a DIY task; a licensed plumber must install your tank and the installation must meet your water supplier and council’s requirements.
How does a tank system work?
Essentially, a tank collects rainwater from the roof. Usually a pump is connected, most often on the ground next to the tank, to pump the collected water from the tank to toilets, a washing machine and to outdoor taps.
What size is right for you?
The size of your tank depends on variables such as what you intend to use it for (e.g. toilets, washing machine, outdoor irrigation), your available space, annual rainfall, and catchment area, i.e. your roof dimensions. Talk to your plumber about what you’d like and find out what is permitted in your area from your water supplier and council. There are numerous online calculators available to give you a guide for the size you might require.
What material is best?
Tanks are made from concrete, plastic (polyethylene), fibreglass and steel. Concrete tanks are often stored below ground because they can handle a lot of weight.
A typical backyard set-up is a 1000L polyethylene, slimline tank that sits on a concrete base. The polyethylene is UV stabilised so it lasts a long time outdoors. Polyethylene tanks provide good all-round features, though they can’t be recycled at the end of their life.
Fibreglass tanks resist corrosion, but because light can pass through them, they require a protective coating to reduce algae growth.
Steel tanks may be galvanised or stainless. These tanks are often used to store large amounts of water.
Above or below ground?
Above ground tanks are more common, but you can store a tank under a driveway or even beneath your home. Both below ground options are best installed in new builds. A tank that stores water in a bladder can also be used if there is space beneath your house or a deck.
Do you need a pump?
You’ll need a pump if you’re connecting your tank to internal piping and if you’re on flat ground. You may get away without a pump if your tank sits high enough to generate adequate pressure by gravity. Pumps can sit on the ground (usually next to the tank) or in the tank. On-ground pumps last longer, but in-tank pumps are quieter.
A simple set-up for lawn irrigation
If you just intend to use your tank to water your lawn, you may not need a pump at all.
Though if you do employ a pump, you can incorporate a pop-up sprinkler system.
The best spot for a tank
Consulting a plumber is essential to ensure the right placement for a tank. Keep in mind though, you want to minimise plumbing work and maximise the catchment area of your roof. You’ll also need outdoor power for a pump. Lastly, it’s best to place a tank in a shaded area to avoid deterioration of the construction material.
Form a little think tank…
… with a plumber to determine the size and type of tank to suit your property and uses. More information on the use of rainwater tanks is available in this guide:
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Welcome to our Spring Lawn Renovation Video Series.
It’s easy to get excited about all the things you might want to do to have your lawn the envy of the street. But it’s important that you don’t act too early and that you do things in a particular order to ensure the best results. In our Spring Lawn Renovation Video Series we take you through the main steps to reno your lawn so you have it humming along as quickly as possible.
A well cared for, freshly mown lawn not only looks awesome, it’s also great to walk on and play on. Anyone can achieve it. The right length of grass is critical to its health and weed minimisation. Check out the guide below to determine the height of lawn that works best for you and is best for your lawn.
Guideline for ideal mowing heights (Rule of thumb: shorter for summer, longer for winter)
Green couch: 5 to 30mm
Buffalo grass (Sir Walter): 30 to 50mm
Kikuyu: 30 to 50mm
Zoysia matrella (Sir Grange): 5 to unmown
Queensland blue couch: 5 to 30mm
Broadleaf carpet grass: 30 to 50mm
Hybrid Bermuda (TifTuf): 5 to 30mm
Fescue: 30 to 50mm
Consistency is Key
Regularly mowing your lawn promotes lateral growth and allows more of the sun’s rays to get amongst the leaf of your lawn. Never cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade of your lawn at any one time. If your lawn has become a little out of control and needs a more severe cut, take it down over a number of mows. This will leave plenty of green on the leaf allowing the grass to continue to photosynthesise.
Change it Up
Mowing in different directions not only minimises mownotony (see what we did there!), it also contributes to a healthy lawn by encouraging the individual blades to grow straight, which in turn provides more space for new blades to grow. Ultimately, this gives you a thicker lawn.
Make Sure the Lawn is Dry
Rain is great for fertilising, but not ideal for mowing. Mowing when the grass is wet can damage the leaf blades as they will tear rather than cut, leaving an uneven edge. This can give a ‘chopped’ look to your lawn. Wait until the lawn has dried out after rain or irrigation before you mow.
Keep your Mower Blades Sharp
To get a beautiful cut, it’s important to keep your mower blades in peak condition. You can drop your mower in to a service centre, or you can do the maintenance yourself. Jump over to this blog for more information on keeping your mower blades sharp or see here for information on replacing them.
Leave the Leaf Blade a Little Longer in Shade and when Water is Scarce
You can maximise your lawn’s health in the shade by raising your mower a notch or two when you get to the shaded areas. This gives the lawn a great surface to absorb what sunlight is available to it.
Keeping your lawn on the longer side will also reduce stress on the lawn during the hotter months. Doing this will keep the temperature of the soil cooled, reducing evaporation and keeping moisture at the roots of your grass, right where it needs to be.
Keeping a Level Lawn
If you have lumps or depressions in your lawn it can be a good idea to top dress your lawn. During the active growing season is the best time. Information on top dressing can be found here.
The right mower
There are many types of lawn mowers available. These include rotary, cylinder and ride-on mowers. Rotary mowers come in two types, mulching or catching. Mulching mowers mulch the grass clippings and deposit them over your lawn. These are good for lawns in poor condition or on poor soils. Catcher mowers catch the clippings for discarding or composting.
Petrol powered rotary mowers are powerful, affordable and easy to use. They suit most lawn types.
Electric rotary mowers are generally cheaper than petrol mowers and require less maintenance, however they can be less powerful and the cord can get in the way. Battery operated models are improving and can be a great alternative to the traditional petrol models.
Cylinder mowers are extremely popular with lawn enthusiasts. They are excellent for short, fine lawns varieties and can give a real manicured look to your lawn. If you have a very small area, a hand pushed cylinder mower can be a good option.
Mow Stripes
Mowing stripes into your lawn is very achievable and it starts with having a thick, even lawn. Although having a cylinder mower can make this easier, you can get the same result with a few tips and tricks and a rotary mower. Your average rotary mower and a roller can do the job. It’s all about bending the blades of grass. You simply mow the grass, then use a roller to push the blades over. You can buy a roller or rent one from a hardware store. The best ones you fill with water, which means they are easier to manoeuvre when they’re empty.
Stay safe
Wearing personal protective equipment (PPE)while mowing minimises your chances of injury. Let’s start at your feet and work our way up. Safety boots are best as there are no laces to catch on anything and they provide a good grip. For the best leg protection from flying debris, wear close-fitting, thick pants. A cool, long sleeve shirt will also protect your body and arms from debris, as well as the sun’s rays.
A face shield or safety glasses will keep your eyes out of harm’s way. A dust mask may also be required if conditions are very dry or if you’re mowing areas that have a lot of loose sand. Don’t forget your ears. Ear defenders or ear plugs will do a great job at blocking out your mower’s engine noise. Finally, protect your hands with gloves to avoid blisters and cuts. Gloves also provide a better grip on your mower.
Drought is spread across the country in many areas, with the agonising wait for rain growing each and every day. Local councils continue to increase water restriction levels, with many of these water restrictions impacting on home-owners ability to water their lawns.
Water Restrictions
Always check the relevant water restrictions in your area as these vary greatly around the country. Your water supplier will have all the necessary information on their website. Also, your local turf supplier should have helpful advice on the local conditions and ways to use and save water.
There are exemptions available for new lawns in some areas even in level 2 restrictions, so people shouldn’t be deterred when looking to install a new lawn as they can still easily install and establish during this time.
Freshly laid turf needs to be watered a couple of times a day, every day, for the first couple of weeks. Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established. You can test for this by trying to gently lift a corner of a roll or slab, if it doesn’t lift easily, the roots have set into the soil. This is a good thing as it means your lawn is growing well.
Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering, depending on the weather and the climate in your region.
Sydney Region
Level 2 water restrictions will be in place for everyone in Sydney, the Blue Mountains and the Illawarra as of the 10th of December.
You can water new turf using:
A hand-held hose fitted with a trigger nozzle for up to four weeks from the delivery date, following the watering plan below. This applies to areas of any size sprinklers and watering systems for up to four weeks from the delivery date, following the watering plan below. This only applies if you have a continuous area of new turf larger than 30m2.
Make sure you keep your receipt and any other order confirmation documentation as your proof of purchase.
Drought-proofing your lawn starts with establishment. New lawns will require regular watering during the establishment phase and the importance of allowing a concession for this time is paramount. These allowances save water in the long run. A well-watered newly installed lawn will develop deeper roots, providing far better drought tolerance in the future. What you use now, rather than a splash and dash method of watering, will save you hundreds of kilolitres in the future and can even diminish the necessity to water your lawn at all.
Water storage crystals are useful for new lawns. They can store up to 400 times their weight in water. The stored water is available to lawn roots after the water in the soil drains away or evaporates. Crystals can last in your lawn for a few years and make a great difference for lawn establishment. Just be sure to spread them out prior to laying turf.
Don’t let your new lawn dry out
You will need to keep your new lawn moist at all times. Watering 4 times a day in warm conditions is quite normal. An example schedule would be:
early morning
mid/late morning
late afternoon
early evening
You don’t need to flood your lawn, just be sure to keep the turf and immediate underlying soil moist. You must be systemic, ensuring you water all areas. Keep in mind that during hot conditions, especially if it is windy, the lawn will dry out very quickly and additional watering may be required. Your lawn will let you know if it is drying out by its appearance and behaviour. The leaf blades will start to curl, shrivel and dry out so you’ll know when it needs a drink.
Initial irrigation methods
Overhead irrigation
The best way to water is by overhead irrigation, in fact to establish a new lawn, overhead watering is the only way to go. Portable sprinklers attached to the end of a hose are cheap and efficient. Just move them around the lawn as required. A tap timer will ensure you don’t leave the water on for too long and wastewater. An in-ground, pop-up irrigation system takes this a step further. This can be connected by a manual tap timer, or a computer-controlled timer that is programmed to run as required. Hooking up a pop-up system to a rainwater tank or using recycled water is the most environmentally friendly and cost-effective method.
Grey Water
Grey water is the wastewater from washing machines, laundry tubs, baths, showers and wash basins. It does NOT include wastewater from the toilet, dishwasher or kitchen sink, as these can contain unwanted solids and potentially nasties. Grey water can be used on the garden and lawn by bucket or water re-use system. This is a good way to recycle your grey water, reduce pressure on grey water waste systems, save on valuable drinking water reserves as well as save money. If you want to use grey water be sure to use environmentally friendly, sustainable detergents that won’t harm your lawn. Before using grey water, it is best to check with your local Council for advice as there may be regulations regarding the use of grey water in your area.
Underground Water
If you live in sand belts such as Perth underground water can be tapped into a bore or a spear. Contact your local Council to see if underground water is available in your area.
On-going watering and creating a drought tolerant lawn
Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established. You can test for this by trying to gently lift a corner of a roll or slab, if it doesn’t lift easily, the roots have set into the soil. This is a good thing as it means your lawn is growing well. Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering depending on the weather and the climate in your region. The idea is to get to a point where you water less frequently but give the lawn a deep soaking when watering does occur.
This encourages deep root systems and ultimately a more self-sufficient and drought tolerant lawn. As the water drains through the soil, the roots seek the water out deeper in the soil rather than just hanging around near the surface, which is what will happen if you just give short, regular watering. Educate your lawn to go the distance.
Drought tolerance is one of the key characteristics of buffalo lawn, like Sir Walter. In many areas that receive fairly regular rain, you will almost never have to water a drought tolerant lawn at all, except during routine maintenance tasks like fertilising when you have to water the fertiliser in. During extended dry periods you may have to water your lawn more regularly to maintain a lush green look, but this is purely for cosmetic reasons.
Timing
The best time to water your garden is early morning or late in the afternoon/early evening, when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat related evaporation. In humid areas, avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal diseases. In these areas early morning is best.
Lawn Solutions R&D programs have a strong focus on bringing lawn to Australian consumers that not only look great but use much less water than older varieties and once established will need little to no water to stay alive.
New turf varieties such as TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda (couch), have been selected and released to the market because of it’s superior drought tolerance.
What can I do to help my lawn survive the hot summer?
Warm season turf grass species commonly used in Australia need very little water to survive and are very hardy. They will lose colour, become brown and dry, with little to no leaf growth. However they will generally sit dormant until the next rain or irrigation event. In summer when temperatures are really high, grasses can enter a state of dormancy where they shut down tissue growth to preserve moisture loss.
You can usually tell if a lawn is dormant rather than dead by looking at the crown at the base of the leaves. If the crown is white to off white, it is likely that it is still alive. A dead lawn will be dry, brown and brittle across the entire plant – the leaves, the roots and the crown.
You can help your lawn beat the summer heat by:
Remove thatch – Removing dead material from the lawn profile will help the living plant to absorb all the available moisture.
Aeration – Improving the ability for water to penetrate to the roots will be important to take best advantage of water when it is available, but also to improve moisture in the soil where it is needed during the next dry spell.
Stay off the lawn – Your grass is already having a hard time and the drier it is, the more it is likely to be damaged and not be able to recover from foot traffic or additional wear.
Water effectively – When you can water, do so for longer, less frequently. Encourage deeper roots that can delve deeper into the soil to find moisture. This will allow your lawn to stay hydrated for longer, even if there has been an extended period without rain.
Apply a wetting Agent – Hydrophobic soil is caused by the decomposition of organic matter, which leaves a wax like substance forming a coating on soil particles. A wetting agent like Lawn Soaker will break down this coating allow water to penetrate.
ColourGuard Plus – If your lawn has lost some colour and vigour from the heat, a good option is ColourGuard Plus. It’s a natural pigment with a liquid fertiliser. It’s a great solution during drought conditions to keep your grass green and to save water at the same time.
After long periods of dry weather, soils can become dehydrated and this is when the hydrophobic surface is exposed. This surface stops water from penetrating. A wetting agent like Lawn Soaker will help break down this surface tension and help water to soak in.
Mowing – The key to your lawn mowing in summer is to make sure you mow during the cooler time of the day and to mow regularly. You want to keep on top of the leaf growth, so you don’t remove too much at a time. Removing more than a third of the leaf at any one time, will cause stress to the grass roots.
How much water does grass need?
Water is fundamental for grass to transport nutrients. It helps maintain cell structure and for it to create its own food through the process of photosynthesis.
For the most part, this water requirement will be met through rainfall or soil moisture storage.
If the roots cannot maintain this level of moisture to the leaf, the leaves will close their stomata. Stomata are cells that form the pores of the leaf surface. When the stomata are closed, there will be limited growth due to its inability to take in carbon dioxide.
When should I irrigate?
The simple answer is – when your lawn needs it. It is important that you only irrigate your lawn when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. When you do water, do so within the rules outlined by local water restrictions.
Lawn Solutions R&D programs have a strong focus on bringing lawn to Australian consumers that not only look great but use much less water than older varieties and once established will need little to no water to stay alive.
New turf varieties such as TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda (couch), have been selected and released to the market because of it’s superior drought tolerance.
Now is a great time to fertilise your lawn and for the most part, is a pretty straight forward thing to do. Buy fertiliser, spread it out and depending on whether it’s granular or liquid, water in or dilute and apply. You have gone down the path of fertilising your lawn, so you have the best of intentions to start with which is great. But a few days later you check on your lawn and it’s not what you expected!
But where could it possibly have gone wrong? Here’s some of the usual mistakes…
Too much N
That’s N for nitrogen. Lawns love it and need it, but too much produces burnt grass and/or too much leaf growth, and not enough root growth.
What happens when you over fertilise your lawn?
Over fertilising your lawn will cause sudden plant growth, particularly leaf growth and thatch. The problem with this is that the roots won’t experience the same amount of rapid growth and will then be unable to supply the amount of water and nutrient that your grass needs.
As fertiliser is primarily made up of mineral salts, excessive fertilising will cause salts to build up in the soil making it difficult for water to be absorbed, which dries out your grass causing discolouration and possibly even plant death if bad enough.
Signs you may have over fertilised your lawn:
Fertiliser burn on the grass leaf
Browning leaftips and yellowing of lower leaves
Darkened and weakened roots
Salt like crust of fertiliser on the soil surface
Too erratic
The method of application is just as important as the fertiliser choice. Chucking fertiliser about willy-nilly produces lawn that looks like it’s maintained by a goat. Walking systematically back and forth across a lawn with a spreader is a good way to apply granular fertiliser. For liquids, a similar orderly approach can be adopted.
Too keen…
… can lead to ‘This fertiliser does nothing!’ Wrong. It’s probably not the fertiliser but the date of application. Apply fertiliser too early, that is, before soil is consistently above 14°C and good lawn food and good money goes to waste. Grass must be actively growing and out of its winter dormancy before it will benefit from a dose of fertiliser.
… can lead to burnt grass, due to the fertiliser. Once granular fertiliser is applied it must be well watered to solubilise it. This is one of the reasons those in the know fertilise just before a dump of rain. But be careful not to spread it out if a deluge of rain is anticipated, too much rain and the fertiliser will wash away, which doesn’t help your lawn and isn’t good for the environment.
While many fertilisers are similar, not all fertilisers are the same. Make sure you always follow the label instructions for the specific fertiliser that you are using.
What should I use for fertilising?
For fertilising we recommend using our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This fertiliser contains a combination of slow and fast release granules that will give your lawn a quick initial boost and will continue to feed the lawn for up to 12 weeks. This is a well-balanced fertiliser that contains all the essential nutrients your lawn needs to stay healthy and is suitable for all lawn varieties.
Exceed Liquid Fertiliser is a great liquid fertiliser option. Exceed will give your lawn a quick boost as it is absorbed by the leaf of the grass.
Lawn Solutions Australia has many articles on all aspects of lawn care.
Here’s some fertiliser related topics you might find helpful…
Why do I need to fertilise my lawn anyway, doesn’t it feed itself?
Here’s some lawn gear ideas to make lawn life a piece of cake!
There’s got to be an easier way! And in most cases, there is. Weeding, mowing, spraying, fertilising – there are handy tools and products for your yard for almost everything. Lawns are pretty easy to manage for the most part, but anything that helps to save you some time is welcomed.
So, we’ve put together this list of handy items that are sure to save you time and effort in caring for your lawn.
Save your back with this weed puller!
The Fiskars Xact Weed Puller is a great innovation for removing weeds effortlessly. Its simple and ergonomic design eliminates the need for bending, kneeling and using chemicals for the removal of weeds.
The deep reaching claws grab roots from all directions and remove weeds cleanly. The ejection system helps to release weeds after they’ve been removed from the soil, allowing you to work upright at all times.
Instant green lawn
Winter and drought make it a challenge to maintain a green lawn all year round. A way around this is to apply a grass pigment to your lawn. Now we’re not talking about painting your lawn or any of those silly memes with a bucket of green paint and a paintbrush. We’re talking about a pigment. The key difference is that a pigment doesn’t coat the leaf of the grass, it’s absorbed into it. One natural grass pigment is called ColourGuard Plus, which also includes a liquid fertiliser to feed the lawn at the same time.
Killing weeds before they even appear!
A pre-emergent herbicide targets weed seeds before they take hold by forming a barrier at soil level that stops the germination of any new seedlings.
OxaFert is in granular form, and when applied forms a film at the base of the turf. This film kills new weed seed germinations, leaving your lawn free of crow’s foot, summer grass, winter grass, creeping oxalis, and others.
Mowed lawn without having to mow!
Husqvarna Automower® is fully automatic and works inside an electronic fence. When batteries run low, it returns to the charging station. After a one-time installation, which can be performed by your dealer, you’ll enjoy a more or less maintenance-free lawn for many years.
Make spraying easier!
The Silvan 16L Rechargeable backpack sprayer is designed for spot spraying of large and small properties and is suitable for use with herbicides, pesticides or liquid fertilisers.
Powered by a built-in, rechargeable Li-ion battery, there is no pumping required. It also features an ergonomic, contoured design and adjustable straps for comfortable use and an easy to reach on/off switch.
Spread fertiliser and seed evenly with ease
The RYOBI 18V ONE+ seed & fertiliser spreader is the perfect tool for any stage of your lawn. You can precisely lay the perfect amount of seed to produce a professional lawn. The unit can then accurately spread fertilisers or wetting agents to keep your grass in dazzling condition.
Lawn Mower Cup Holder
Last but not least, the lawn mower cup holder for those who can’t wait until they have finished the job. Perfect for holding your beer (or water) while you mow the lawn properly with two hands! Check out this one by The Mower Mate which comes with one of your choice of four stubby holder designs.
All you want to do during the warmer months is get outside and enjoy your lawn! Hosting barbeques, playing with the kids, gardening and enjoying the great outside space you have created. But the pesky mosquitoes are back and are running amok! The kids are scratching, you’ve got lumps all up your arms and the mozzies are having a right old feast.
So, what do you do? Give up and head back indoors? NO!
You might have tried some common solutions, but there are some things (especially when combined) that might help.
Here’s 8 options…
DEET (Topical Insect Repellents)
DEET is short for N,N-Diethyl-m-toluamide and is used as a repellent. When applied to the skin, it creates a vapour barrier on the surface of the skin which deters the mozzies from making contact. Different repellents include differing percentages of DEET, with a higher percentage providing longer lasting protection. One of the best products available is from Bushman Repellent which has a range of products with DEET amounts up to 80%!
Mosquito coils
This might be a fairly common go-to, but when combined with the use of topical insect repellents you get pretty good protection from mozzies. Traditionally mosquito coils were made using pyrethrum, with many now containing pyrethroid insecticides to kill the mozzies and/or citronella to repel them.
Mosquito repellent plants
One of the easiest ways to get a leg-up on the mozzies is to plant mosquito repellent plants. Some options include; lemon balm, lavender, peppermint, marigolds, citronella grass and catnip. The great thing about these is they smell great, but the mosquitoes don’t like the scent, so it keeps them away. Try planting these plants near your entertainment areas or have some of them in pots closer to where you need them.
Eliminate stagnant water
Stagnant water is the perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes. Where possible, try to avoid stagnant water in places where it’s not needed. Remove any old buckets or containers that have filled up from rain. For birdbaths and pet water bowls, try to keep the water fresh by replacing it regularly.
Garlic
Who won’t it keep away! No surprises here really, mosquitoes aren’t big fans of the smell of garlic; if you boil it and use the water for a spray, you can target some problem areas where the mosquitoes congregate.
Coffee Grinds
Love the smell of coffee? Well, mosquitoes don’t, so make use of your coffee grinds. Leave them in a bowl and singe them with a lighter to spread the aroma.
Lighting
Insects see lights differently to humans and are highly attracted to light sources, especially ones that emit intense heat and brightness. Bug lights have a bulb that is coated with a yellow, opaque coating that is less detectable to mosquitoes. As a result, they won’t swarm around your light source, which will mean they are less likely to spoil your evening outside.
Create a cross breeze
It can get seriously hot outside in the summer, even in the evening. If you utilise a fan to help cool you down, it will also lead to less mosquitoes as they will seek shelter where the air is calmer.
