From reducing compaction to assisting in drainage, aeration has so many benefits for your lawn! We take a look at all you need to know about aerating your lawn…
Aeration is the process of decompacting your soil by either punching holes into the soil profile with a garden fork, aerator sandals or extracting cores of soil by using a tyne aerator.
Why should I aerate my lawn?
Aeration has many benefits to the overall health of your lawn. Decompacting the soil base helps allow for air, water and nutrients to more freely travel down to the roots of your lawn. This will help the lawn grow its roots deeply to produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn.
A few common lawn issues that aeration can assist with include:
Helping your lawn to grow thicker and stronger.
Help alleviate soil compaction from high amounts of foot traffic and wear.
Assisting where drainage is poor.
Help your lawn spread back over bare sections of lawn.
Better allow for nutrients to reach the roots of your lawn.
When should I aerate my lawn?
Aeration can be done at any time throughout the year, but the most common time to do this is in spring and summer when grass is actively growing. This is particularly the case when core aerating as there will be holes left in the profile where the soil has been removed. When doing this in spring and summer, this means that the grass will be able to grow back over at a faster rate.
Aeration can still be done throughout the cooler months, but you may not see the full benefit till the grass begins to actively grow.
How do I aerate my lawn?
There are a few different tools you can use to aerate your lawn:
Aerating with a garden fork is one of the most common ways to aerate your lawn. This method involves you driving a sturdy garden fork into the ground then giving it a good wiggle back and forwards to help break up the surrounding soil. Then continue this across the lawn, aiming for spacing around 8-10cm apart.
Aerating sandals are also another way to aerate the lawn. With aerating sandals, you attach the sandal to your shoe, then walk across your lawn. These sandals are a less labour intensive, however may not be quite as effective as other methods.
Core aeration is another method of aerating where the tines will remove plugs of soil from the ground. This particular method of aerating allows more space for your lawn to breathe and is ideal where there are high amounts of compaction present. Core aeration can be done using a manual core aerator fork, or if you have a larger area, you can hire out a mechanical core aerator.
How can I aerate if my soil is too hard?
If your soil has become too compacted and is difficult to get the tines to penetrate the soil, give the lawn a good water a few hours beforehand. This will help to help soften up the soil.
For more lawn care tips and advice, make sure you check out our other lawn care blogs here.
Does your lawn have big bare patches of dirt, and do you want to find the best and quickest way to get turf growing there again? In this blog, we look at the best way to fix bare patches in your lawn.
Generally, if your bare patch is larger than an A4-size piece of paper, it is best to use a roll/slab of turf to patch up the lawn. This will be a much more efficient and quicker method to get your lawn looking its best.
If your bare patch is smaller than an A4 piece of paper, it is best to encourage the surrounding grass to grow and spread back over. For more information on how to do this, please check out our blog here.
Matching Your New Piece of Turf with Your Existing Lawn
In order to get the most seamless match to your existing lawn, you firstly need to know what type of grass your main lawn is. When identifying your lawn type, you will need to look closely at the runner of the grass and analyse the grasses leaf and stolon structure. If you don’t know what to look for when examining your turf, check out our handy grass identification video here or our blog here.
If you are still unsure what type of grass your main lawn type is, get in contact with us or your local turf supplier for an identification.
Preparing the Area for Turf
To prepare the area for turf, you will first need to rake out any of the dry or dead plant material that is currently there. If there are any weeds growing there, you will need to remove them as well. Either pull these out by hand or look at removing them with a non-selective herbicide like Roundup or Zero. When preparing the area, try to make the patch as square as possible to make installing the turf as easy as possible.
Following this, turn over the soil base with a garden fork to help decompact the soil profile. Then if you need to raise the soil levels, bring in some new sandy loam or turf underlay mix.
Repairing the Bare Patch with Turf
After preparing the area, get in contact with your local Lawn Solutions Australia member and pick up the amount of turf you need.
Once you have picked up your turf, it is best to install it as soon as possible. This will prevent the turf from drying out, especially if doing this on a hot day.
Cut the turf to the required size and shape, then lay it over your prepared area. If you have any leftover soil, you can use this and lightly top dress around the joins between your existing turf and the new grass. Water in the turf well, as you would a new lawn.
How Do I Care for the New Turf?
For the next few weeks as the new turf establishes, ensure you are watering regularly to help prevent the roots of the grass from drying out.
For your first mow, it is best to wait till it has had a chance to establish its roots down into the soil base before mowing. You can test if your turf has grown into the soil by gently pulling up a corner of the new turf. If the turf does not lift, it is ready for a mow.
Over the coming weeks post-installation, your new turf patch will be able to knit together with your existing lawn. Ensure you are mowing the area regularly and keep up with regular lawn maintenance to get the most out of your lawn.
For more lawn care tips and advice, make sure you check out our other lawn care blogs here.
Does your lawn not look its best, but not sure what’s causing it or how to get it back on track? In this blog, we take a look at how to diagnose common lawn problems and how to help get your lawn back in full health.
Does your lawn have brown, dry damage that quickly spreads across your lawn? Lawn grubs and armyworms will eat away at the stem or grass roots, causing a distinguishable line of damage. Another common sign that your lawn may face grub or armyworm damage is increased black beetle or moth activity on or around the lawn. If you are concerned about grubs in your lawn, we recommend doing a grub test.
To do a grub test, mix up a bucket of water and add a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Then, pour this over the edge of the green grass and where the damage is. If there are grubs, they will rise up to the surface to breathe. This test is best done at dawn or dusk when the grubs are most likely to be active.
If you do find that there are grubs present, we recommend using a fast acting insecticide like Battle to get a quick knockdown of the damage-causing pests. Following this, we also recommend using a grub prevention product like our Grub Guard Ultimate.
For more information on how to help stop and prevent lawn grubs, please check out our blog here.
Lawn Grub Damage
What Does Urine Burn Look Like?
Another common issue individuals may face with their lawn is urine burn. As dog’s urine can contain a concentrated amount of nitrogen, this can cause some burning and die-off on our lawns. When urine burns occur, the damage will be isolated to a small area and the patch will not spread like grub damage will.
There are a few methods you can try to help stop and reduce the impact of urine burns on your lawn. Please check out our blog for more information here.
Dog Urine Burn
What Does a Scalped Lawn Look Like?
Does your lawn get dry-looking patches after mowing, or does mowing your lawn remove all its green leaves? If the answer is yes, you might be scalping your lawn. Scalping can occur if:
– The lawn has grown too long in between mows.
– If the lawn levels are uneven.
– If there is an accumulation of thatch within the turf profile.
Scalped Lawn
So, how can you stop scalping from occurring?
If your scalping is occurring from your lawn growing too long in between mows or if there is an accumulation of thatch, you will need to reset the height of your lawn. To do this, drop your mower height a few notches lower than your preferred mowing height – if there is an accumulation of thatch, you may need to go lower than this. Please note, when doing this to buffalo grass, you will need to ensure the above-ground runners are still present. After this, the lawn won’t look its best, but this will allow the new green leaf to grow back in at a lower height, so it’s not all removed when mowing. On your next mow, raise your mower back up to its normal mowing height and continue to mow regularly.
*Please note, it is best to only do this throughout the warmer months while your lawn is actively growing and should be avoided in winter.
If scalping has occurred due to uneven levels in your lawn, we recommend top dressing with washed or screened sand. For more information on how to top-dress your lawn, please check out our blog here.
What Does a Compacted Lawn Look Like?
Compacted soils will usually occur if there are high amounts of traffic on a lawn, or if there is a high amount of clay in the soil profile. Some tell-tale signs that you may have a compacted lawn include water pooling at the surface, thinning of grass, shallow roots and slow growth.
An easy way to tell if your lawn is compacted is to test and see if a screwdriver can easily be inserted into the soil. If the soil is compacted this will be difficult to do.
For aerating your lawn, we recommend using either a sturdy garden fork or a core aerator. To aerate, simply drive the fork into the profile and give it a good wiggle to help decompact the soil base. Following this, repeat this process across the lawn around 10cm apart. Alternatively, if you have a larger area to cover, you may want to hire a motorised aerator to help make this a quicker and easier task.
For more information on how to aerate your lawn, check out our blog here.
Are you wanting to renovate your lawn this spring? In this blog, we go through the steps that you need to take, plus our favourite tips and tricks to get the best results.
Should I Remove Lawn Weeds Before or After Renovating My Lawn?
For best results, we recommend removing weeds before commencing your scalp/dethatch. If only a few weeds are present, the best and easiest way to remove them is to pull them out by hand. Alternatively, you can look at using a targeted herbicide.
To remove common broadleaf weeds like Clover, Bindii, and Oxalis, we recommend using a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control.
When Should I Renovate My Lawn?
Although it is tempting to start renovating your lawn after the first warm day in spring, it is best to wait until temperatures are consistently warmer. But what does this mean? Well, you need to wait till your lawn is consistently growing. This is once you have noticed that the grass needs to be mown regularly. By doing this, you are ensuring that the grass will be able to repair itself quicker and, therefore, get your renovation results sooner.
Before commencing your renovation, we recommend looking at your region’s extended forecast. See if any potential cold snaps could impact your lawn during its recovery period.
How Do I Dethatch and Scalp My Lawn?
When dethatching and scalping your lawn, it is important to know what type of lawn you have to avoid damaging your turf.
Kikuyu and Couch lawns can be scalped and dethatched more aggressively than other turf types as they have a strong underground rhizome from which they can repair. With Zoysia grasses, we recommend dethatching and scarifying lightly as zoysia is a slow grower. With Buffalo grasses, as they mainly grow by their above-ground runner system, it is best only lightly to dethatch and scarify. You will need to ensure that there are still the above ground runners in tack for the grass to repair from.
How Do I Aerate My Lawn?
Aerating your lawn is a great way to help bring air, water and nutrients back into your soil’s profile. Aerating can be done in a few different ways, including aerator sandals, garden fork, tyne aerator, and for larger areas, often a motorised aerator is used.
When aerating with a garden fork or tyne aerator, drive the fork down into the soil profile. With a tyne aerator, the tynes should eject soil to the surface. With a garden fork, give the fork a good wiggle to help decompact the surrounding soil. Repeat this process across the lawn, around 10cm apart.
How Do I Top Dress My Lawn?
When top-dressing your lawn, we recommend ensuring the top of the leaf blade is still popping through. It is important not to go too heavy and completely smother the grass, as it can deprive the lawn of sunlight and oxygen.
When choosing your top-dressing material, it is important to consider your goals. Are you top-dressing to improve the levels of the lawn and correct any depressions? Or do you want to improve the soil profile? If you want to perfect your lawn’s levels, we recommend using a washed or screened river sand. If you are wanting to improve the soil profile, a sandy loam with 80% sand and 20% loam is ideal.
What Products Should I Use When Renovating Your Lawn?
With all lawn renovations, it is recommended to apply fertiliser to help boost the turf’s growth while the lawn is being repaired. We recommend using a granular fertiliser, something like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser is ideal.
This time of year is also ideal to get your prevention products down now. To help prevent the growth and spread of seasonal grassy weeds like Summer Grass, Crab Grass, and Crowsfoot, we recommend applying Oxafert or Oxafert Plus. Both of these products will help stop the germination of weed seedlings before they become a problem in your lawn.
Now is also ideal for getting your application of an Acelepryn powered insecticide like Grub Guard Ultimate. Grub Guard Ultimate, powered by Acelepryn delivers excellent preventative control against a large range of damage causing pests, including African Black Beetle, Armyworm and Argentine Stem Weevil.
Following your renovation, ensure you are irrigating the lawn regularly while it is vulnerable, especially if you do happen to encounter a few hot days following your renovation.
For more lawn care tips and advice, make sure you check out our other lawn care blogs here.
Not sure which sprayer to use on your lawn, how much water you need, or whether you really need to clean your sprayer afterwards? In this blog, we break down everything you need to know about using knapsack and pressure sprayers from choosing the right type to proper cleaning, calibrating your sprayer and application tips.
When choosing what size sprayer for your lawn, you firstly need to assess your lawn size. If you have only a small lawn area of around 10m2 of less, you should be able to get away with using a small hand 1-2L pressure sprayer. For any larger area sizes, we recommend using a sprayer with a hose and trigger sprayer to help make application an easier task.
Lawns up to 150 – 200m2 using a 5L to 8L sprayer like the Husqvarna 8L Manual Sprayer will be able to do an effective job.
For lawns larger than this, you should be able to achieve coverage with an 5L to 8L sprayer by breaking up the lawn into different sections, and the fill up your sprayer again for the remaining sections. Alternatively, a larger backpack sprayer, like the Husqvarna 15L Backpack Sprayer is ideal.
How Much Water Do I Need to Use When Spraying My Lawn?
When using domestic fertilisers, herbicides and fungicides on your lawn, they generally will state on the label how much water is needed for application. However, when using commercial style products, they will often require you to calibrate your sprayer. By calibrating your sprayer, it allows you to know exactly how much water is needed to cover your area size, so that you can apply the exact amount of product that is needed over your area size. This stops you from either over or under applying the product.
When applying products to your lawn, most garden sprayers allow you to adjust the nozzle by twisting it to change the spray from a fine mist to a larger droplet. Some models also come with a set of interchangeable nozzles designed for different applications. If you’re purchasing additional nozzles, it is best to make sure they’re compatible with your specific sprayer model.
What is a Boom Sprayer?
Boom sprayers are extensions attached to the wand, typically mounted on a tee bar with two or more nozzles. They allow you to cover larger areas more efficiently and in less time. When purchasing a boom attachment, make sure it comes with the correct adaptors to suit your specific sprayer model.
Should I Clean My Garden Sprayer?
With knapsacks and pressure sprayers, after use it is important to ensure you properly clean the sprayer. By doing this, it will help ensure no chemicals are left sitting in your sprayer, which can cause the deterioration of seals, which will lead to poor pressure and leaks.
Solo Sprayers recommends using the “triple rinse” method. This method includes the following:
Rinse the tank firstly with water. Fill the tank with water, then shake and dump the remainder of the product.
Fill the tank with water and dishwashing liquid. Then shake the tank and spray the solution through the pump to flush the system.
Fill the tank with clean water, shake the tank and then spray the water to flush the pump system again.
If you are just starting out on your lawn care journey and good and sturdy sprayer, brands to look out for include Husqvarna, Ryobi and Nylex.
If you are after wanting a commercial grade sprayer that will have a range of nozzles and replaceable seals, we recommend having a look into Solo Sprayers and Silvan Sprayers.
For more lawn care tips and advice, make sure you check out our other lawn care blogs.
Couch lawns like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda are a favourite for many Aussie homes, particularly for high wear areas, and for those who want a more manicured look. In this blog, we take a look at how to best care for and maintain a couch lawn.
Couch lawns are faster-growing grasses and will require more frequent mowing compared to other turf types like buffalo and zoysia grasses. Couch grasses are mown shorter than other turf types, ideally between 5 to 30mm.
As couch grasses are faster growing, you will need to ensure you are mowing regularly. This is particularly the case throughout the warmer months when the grass is growing at its fastest.
The frequency you need to mow at will be dependent on the temperatures in your region. However, as a general guide, it is best to ensure you are mowing frequently enough so that only one-third of the leaf is removed with each pass.
Throughout the warmer months of the year, if your lawn is growing too fast to keep up with, we recommend using a plant growth regulator (PGR) like Primo HG or Primo Maxx. A PGR will help slow down your lawns vertical growth. This will also help divert it into lateral growth, helping your lawn become thicker.
Should I Fertilise My Couch Lawn?
Generally, couch grasses like TifTuf won’t require as much nitrogen as other grasses like kikuyu or buffalo grass may need.
If you are using a liquid fertiliser like Exceed, we recommend applying 4 times a year, once in spring, summer, autumn and winter.
If you are using a granular fertiliser like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser or ProPlus Mini Prill, as there will be more nutrients supplied over a longer period of time, you will only need two applications per year. Once in spring and again in autumn.
How Much Water Does a Couch Lawn Need?
Once a couch lawn is fully established, it will only need watering on an as needed basis. Usually, rainfall will be able to cover your lawns water requirements. However, if you are going through a dry period, your couch lawn may need additional water to help keep it in good shape.
Some tell-tale signs that a couch lawn needs watering include:
Wilting leaf
Leaf is losing colour
If lawn is looking dry or crusty in hot weather
When walking on your lawn and a footprint is left behind on the grass, your lawn is likely lacking water
When watering your lawn, it is best to do so in the morning before the heat of the day. Avoid late afternoon/night, as this can lead to fungal issues.
What Weed Killer Can I Use on a Couch Lawn?
The vast majority of weed killers available on the market are safe for use on couch lawns. However, it is always best practice to read the label before use.
If you do have a QLD Blue Couch lawn, it will be more sensitive to particular herbicides, so you will need to be careful to fully read the label instructions.
How Much Sunlight Does Couch Grass Need?
Couch grasses are sun loving turf types and will need an absolute minimum of 6 hours of direct light per day to thrive. If your couch lawn gets less than this, you may need to give any surrounding trees and shrubs a prune back. This will help allow more light back to the lawn.
For more lawn care tips and advice, make sure you check out our other lawn care blogs.
Welcome to our blog on common lawn weeds and how to remove them! We all want to have a beautiful and lush lawn, but unfortunately, weeds can grow and affect the aesthetic of our outdoor space.
In this blog, we will be looking at a wide range of common lawn weeds and explore the best ways to remove them. From bindii and crabgrass to clover and winter grass, we will cover everything you need to know about identifying and controlling these pesky lawn weeds.
Clover is another weed commonly found in many Aussie lawns. This weed can be identified by its oval-shaped leaves. These leaves also have a white circular marking across all the leaves and will produce either a white, pink, red or yellow flower.
We recommend using a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control or Estate Herbicide or Bin Die if you have available. Estate Herbicide 250ml Concentrate has recently been introduced to replace the recently discontinued product Bin Die Concentrate.
Bindii (Jo-Jo)
Bindii can be one of the more annoying and painful weeds to have growing in your lawn. This weed is low growing, with its flower at the centre of the plant. Bindii will start to grow in winter and will grow a green carrot-like leaf. As the temperatures warm up in spring and summer, the plant will begin to dry out and leave behind its prickly seeds.
Bindii can be removed with most broadleaf herbicides like All Purpose Weed Control and Estate Herbicide. Both herbicides are safe for common lawn varieties, including Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo, Sir Grange Zoysia, TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda, couch, zoysia, fescue, and ryegrass.
Winter Grass (Poa annua)
Winter Grass, or Poa annua as it is scientifically known, is a low growing turf grass. It has soft, drooping green leaves grown in tufts with triangular shaped seed heads.
Winter Grass Killer is a selective control that will kill Winter Grass by targeting the roots, so it is extremely important to spray early in its life cycle before seed heads appear. Munns Winter Grass Killer is another option that is safe to use on kikuyu lawns.
Targeting it before it emerges is the key to preventing it from germinating and going to seed. A pre-emergent like Oxafert can be applied and it will target the Winter Grass before it emerges from the soil.
Oxalis (Oxalidaceae)
Oxalis, also known as wood-sorrel, is a genus of plants with green or purple leaves and many variations in flower colour including white, pink or yellow. Below we focus on the common species found in Australian lawns.
Creeping Oxalis (Oxalis Corniculata)
Creeping Oxalis, as its name suggests, quickly runs along the surface of the soil and produces roots from the leaf as it goes and creeps under and through your lawn. When seed pods mature, they dry out and explode, causing the seed to spread. It is a very invasive and nasty weed, so it’s important to take action against it as soon as possible.
Creeping Oxalis is difficult to remove as crowns break off leaving roots for re-growth. You can hand remove small plants or dig out sections where you need to if they aren’t particularly large. If there is a substantial spread of creeping oxalis through your lawn, you will get better results by spraying your lawn with a selective herbicide.
A selective herbicide such as All Purpose Weed Control or Estate Hebicide will help to eradicate Creeping Oxalis in all lawn types including kikuyu and couch and are safe to use on most varieties of buffalo except the ST varieties.
Soursob (Oxalis Pes-caprae)
Soursobs spread with leaves along the ground, producing large yellow flowers with 5 petals and a long white tuberous root. Soursob will also have black dots on its leaf.
Completely eradicating Soursobs from your lawn will take a bit of time and effort. Unlike many other weeds, it is not recommended to remove them by hand, as the bulbs will break off and continue to grow beneath the soil allowing it to reappear. There are also no selective herbicides readily available for domestic lawns that will target the Soursobs, so you will need to take a few other steps to try and remove it. Mowing them off regularly will weaken the plant helping your grass to overcome the infestation. Bulb exhaustion occurs just before flowering, so this is the perfect time to implement your mowing and non-selective herbicide application, when the plant is weak. This is the only stage that physical removal will be an option, by digging up under the plant and removing the soil around it as well.
Cudweed has glossy light green leaves in a rosette shape. Under the leaf, it is white and furry. It has various flowering habits from mid-spring to early summer, or in autumn.
When treating Cudweed, it is recommended to use a surfactant or add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the herbicide, to help it adhere to the leaf. We recommend using a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control or Estate Herbicide to remove this.
Nutgrass (Cyperus rotundus)
Nutgrass is a noxious Sedge weed that gets its name from its nut-like tubers found on the plant’s roots. It is usually identifiable from its lighter green leaves that grow taller than the rest of your lawn. It has 3 blades that will shoot up from the stem. The stem will be triangular rather than circular stem like most grasses.
If your lawn has nutgrass, it is not recommended to pull them out by hand as the bulbs will be left in the soil, and the plant will reappear. To remove nutgrass, we recommend using a selective herbicide like our Lawn Solutions Sedge Control.
Crowsfoot/Crabgrass (Eleusine Indica or Digitaria)
Crowsfoot is an annual summer weed that grows in easy-to-identify tufts, staying fairly flat to the ground with almost white flat sheathed stems and smooth strap-like leaves. Seed heads usually appear from late spring or early summer. These seed heads can have as many as ten spikelets on each long stem. In an unhealthy lawn, if left to seed and spread, Crowsfoot will quickly infiltrate right through the entire lawn. Crowsfoot is commonly found throughout most Australian states.
If there are only a few tufts of crowsfoot growing, the best way to remove the weed is to pull it out by hand. If there is an infestation across the lawn, we recommend using a herbicide with DSMA as the active, like David Greys 500ml Crab Grass and Clover Killer Selective Herbicide. Please note herbicides containing DSMA as the active ingredient are not safe for use on Kikuyu, buffalo lawns, and QLD blue couch.
Common Chickweed (Stellaria media)
Chickweed is a low growing, winter annual weed that can continue growing all through summer. It has paired leaves protruding opposite one another that have minimal fine hairs. As temperatures rise white flowers bloom in clusters at the end of a stem.
Chickweed can be removed by hand, but if you have a substantial spread of chickweed in your grass, then an application with a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control or Estate Herbicide would be the go.
Onion Weed (Nothoscordum sp)
Onion weed is a menace in lawns and garden beds right around Australia. It is one of the worst weeds that you can have take-hold in your yard as it is also one of the most difficult to get rid of.
Onion weed is a perennial with thin green strappy leaves growing from a mainly white bulb which gives off an onion smell when crushed. Flowers grow at the top of a long stalk and are mainly white.
Eradicating onion weed starts with removing as many of the plants as possible. Do not try to pull the plant out of the ground or shake excess dirt back off into the hole or compost. The small bulblets tend to pull away from the mother plant when pulled, which leaves more bulbs in the ground that will rapidly grow. If possible, dig the weed-clump out of the ground with a spade or a trowel, and throw the entire clump away. If you have an extensive problem, Onion weed and onion grass can be treated with a selective herbicide called Ferris WG Herbicide.
Summer Grass (Digitaria sanguinalis and Digitaria cilaris)
Summer grass is an annual weed which has soft hairy leaves that grow close to the ground in clusters. The grass roots at the node (joint) and the sheathes of the leaf are usually purple tinged in colour at the base. Because Summer grass spreads by seed, it is extremely important that you act before this happens.
If there is only a small amount of Summer grass growing, the best way to remove the weed is to pull it out by hand. If there is an infestation across the lawn, we recommend using a herbicide with DSMA as the active, like David Greys 500ml Crab Grass and Clover Killer Selective Herbicide. Please note herbicides containing DSMA as the active ingredient are not safe for use on kikuyu, buffalo lawns, and QLD blue couch.
A really effective way of stopping Summer grass from germinating in your lawn again next year is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert. These herbicides act by stopping weeds from germinating from the soil in the first place. In order for them to work effectively, you need to apply them before emergence. For Summer grass, this would mean you would be best applying it in early to mid-spring.
Mullumbimby Couch (Cyperus brevifolius)
Mullumbimby Couch is a perennial mat-forming, grass like sedge with dark green, glossy, strap-like leaves. It possesses tough and long rhizomes which are red to purple in colour.
If you do notice this weed growing, it is best to act quickly before it spreads and becomes very difficult to remove. You can dig them out with a small spade. But you will have to be very diligent with this to ensure there are no roots or bulbs left in the soil as they will reappear if left behind. If there is a large amount of Mullumbimby couch in your lawn, you will need to treat it with a selective herbicide like Sedge Control.
Paspalum (Paspalum dilatatum)
Paspalum has a purple tinge at the base of broad grass leaves that stem from a central crown. It primarily grows throughout the warmer months from late spring to early autumn.
If the paspalum has spread throughout your lawn and is out of control, you may need to look at applying a selective herbicide that contains the active DSMA (not safe for kikuyu and buffalo), something like David Greys 500ml Crab Grass and Clover Killer Selective Herbicide is ideal.
Spurge/Red Caustic Weed
Spurge/Red Caustic Weed is a low growing weed with a red stems and dark green leaves. The stems of these weeds contain a milky sap. The leaves can have a purple or red spot in the centre.
The best and easiest way to remove spurge is to pull it out by hand. Repeated applications of a broadleaf herbicide can also be used for removal.
Khaki weed
Khaki weed has reddish stems with oval shaped, hairy leaves. This weed produces greenish – yellowish flower and spreads mainly by its seeds located inside a burr. This burr can easily be transported between areas after attaching to objects like animals, clothing, and machinery.
Dicamba (not buffalo safe) and MCPA are the recommended active ingredients to treat this weed. You can also remove by using a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate, like roundup. You will need to be careful to only apply it to the weed and not your lawn as it will harm it also. We recommend using a weed wand or small paint brush to help with accuracy.
Mallow
Mallow has woody base, large tap root and spreads mainly by its seed. Mallow’s leaves are dark green and have scalloped lobes.
While the mallow is young, hand removal is the most effective option. Dicamba (not buffalo safe) and MCPA based products can provide some control for Mallow.
Creeping Charlie
Creeping Charlie also known as ground ivy has kidney shaped leaves with scalloped edges. This weed’s viny stems can root into the ground at each node and has violet-blue flowers.
This hairless intruder likes to occupy soil high in phosphate. As the name suggests it produces burrs, which contain seeds. Beware! The burrs can attach to your dog’s coat or yours. Its leaves are heart shaped and clover-like, with serrated edges. Burr medic produces tap roots and small yellow flowers.
This trespasser grows well where soil is compacted and dry. It produces a small yellow flower and has clover-like leaves that are serrated near the tip. Black medic may produce a tap root. Don’t confuse it with oxalis or other clovers. The presence of black medic can indicate your soil lacks nitrogen.
Trad (Tradescantia fluminensis) also known as Wandering Jew
Trad is a creeping weed with green oval-shaped leaves. This weed produces white flowers mostly between spring and summer. It is a highly invasive weed and will grow in mostly shaded and damp areas.
Trad can be removed by hand, or selectively treated with a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate, like roundup. When using a non-selective herbicide, you will need to be careful to only apply it to the weed and not your lawn as it will harm it also. We recommend using a weed wand or small paint brush to help with accuracy.
Capeweed
Capeweed is an autumn/winter annual with a rosette forming dicit, with deeply lobed leaves and white downy underside. It has many small flowers on a black, pitted receptacles with radiating yellow florets. Capeweed has deep taproots that can make hand removal difficult.
Purslane is a succulent type weed with tear drop shaped leaves, waxy coating, and purple/brown stems.
This weed is best chipped out manually by hand. It will generally not infiltrate a lawn unless it is extremely sparce and thin. Attention to improving the lawn should see purslane unable to infiltrate your lawn.
Are you looking to install turf in a small area in your garden? In this blog, we take a look at factors to consider when choosing a new lawn, and look at the best turf options for small spaces.
But First, Why Does Grass Variety Matter in Small Spaces?
Small spaces often come with unique challenges like limited sunlight, higher foot traffic, or exposure to heat from surrounding walls and pavements. The right grass can help you create a resilient and visually appealing lawn that complements your lifestyle.
Things to Consider Before Choosing a Variety for Your Lawn
Assess how much sunlight your area receives
If you are unsure of how much light your area gets, we recommend taking photos of your area at 2-hour intervals throughout the day. E.g. 7am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm. These photos will give you a better indication of sunlight in your area so you can choose a suitable turf type.
When assessing your areas shade, it is also important to take note of any trees or plants that will grow and shade the area in the coming years.
Determine how much wear your area will receive
When turfing smaller areas where pets and kids will be using the lawn, it is important to note that the grass is likely to experience more wear in a smaller area compared to a larger lawn as there will be less space for play. Choosing a grass that will be able to withstand this increased wear is important.
What Is the Best All Round Grass for Small Spaces?
Sir Walter DNA Certified is the best all round grass for smaller spaces. Sir Walter has a high shade tolerance needing a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct light per day to thrive. This is a family friendly, low maintenance grass with a beautiful soft broadleaf that is great with pets and kids. Sir Walter DNA Certified is also versatile grass suited to a range of climates all across Australia.
Is Zoysia Australis Ideal for Smaller Lawns?
Zoysia Australis is also another ideal option, with qualities similar to Sir Walter DNA Certified but with a finer leaf. The Zoysia Australis has a medium leaf width and a beautiful blue/green colour. Zoysia Australis will need a minimum of 4 hours of direct sun per day with less mowing requirements. This is an ideal option for Aussie backyards as it has a good wear tolerance and recovery.
What Grass Should I Use If My Lawn Will Get Lots of Wear?
If your lawn will get lots of traffic from pets and kids and will get plenty of sun, an ideal option to look into is TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda. TifTuf has superior wear tolerance and a fast-repairing nature, so if it becomes damaged by pets or kids, it will repair itself quickly. It also has a superior drought tolerance and is formally recognised as Smart Drop Certified. While this grass performs fantastically, it also has a soft, fine leaf and can be maintained at a lower height of cut for a more manicured look. With TifTuf, it is also important to note that it requires a minimum of 6 hours of direct light per day to thrive.
If you would like some more specific advice on choosing the best grass type for your area or are ready to get your new lawn, get in touch with your local Lawn Solutions Australia member here.
For more lawn care tips and advice, make sure to check out our other lawn care blogs here.
Zoysia turf varieties are a favourite when it comes to many Aussie homes for their fantastic colour and versatility across many areas, but what is the best variety? Zoysia Australis is the best option for families who use their area frequently. Sir Grange Zoysia is a premium low-maintenance option for a more sophisticated show garden or display area.
What are the best zoysia grasses for Australian conditions?
Best Zoysia for Families
Zoysia Australis is the best zoysia grass for families. It can stand up to the daily stresses that you and your family will throw at it, while still performing beautifully while still showcasing beautiful zoysia traits. Here are some of the main reasons why Zoysia Australis is considered the best zoysia for families:
Has a good shade tolerance. Zoysia Australis needs a minimum of 4 hours of direct light and is well suited in full sun areas.
Has a good wear tolerance and recovery for a zoysia. It can stand up to regular foot traffic from pets and kids and if it does become damaged, it will be able to repair itself quickly.
Has a fast establishment. This means you can get out and use your lawn faster.
Soft, medium leaf that feels great underfoot and great to play on.
Has a beautiful blue/green colour.
Zoysia Australis is part of the Zoysia japonica family. It can stand up to the stresses of a family and pets and has shade tolerance to thrive where other grasses falter.
Zoysia Australis is one of the latest turfgrasses to hit the Australian market. It was bred by Dr. Brian Schwartz at the world-famous University of Georgia, Tifton campus. This grass has been undergoing trial work here in Australia since 2018 with a range of elite zoysia grasses, with Zoysia Australis coming up on top.
Sir Grange Zoysia is the best zoysia if you are after a high-end show garden! It has a stunning fine blade with a beautiful dark green colour. Sir Grange is a slow-growing grass, meaning it has lower mowing requirements compared to other faster-growing grasses. Sir Grange also can look great when mown as low as 5mm, maintained at any height and can even be left unmown for a more textured and landscaped look. This ability to be left unmown makes it ideal for areas that are difficult to mow.
Here are some of the main reasons why Sir Grange Zoysia is considered the best zoysia grass for show gardens and manicured lawns:
Soft, fine, dark green leaf.
Slow growing requires up to 50% less mowing than other common turf varieties.
Can be mowed at a variety of heights – can even be left unmown for a more textured look.
Is a low-input grass, requiring 75% less than other common turf varieties.
Sir Grange Zoysia also known as Zeon Zoysia is a fine-bladed Zoysia matrella. It was hand-selected from over 10,000 different turf cultivar varieties. Sir Grange was developed by one of the largest turf grass breeders, Blade Runner Farms in Texas, by Mr David Douget. Bladerunner Farms has the largest privately owned zoysia grass research facility in the world.
This grass has been used on many world-famous projects such as the Rio Olympics Golf Course. It can be seen on several courses designed by Greg Norman and Tiger Woods. This turf type was originally developed for the golf industry, but it was soon discovered that due to its characteristics, it would make a fantastic home lawn!
Buffalo lawns, like Sir Walter DNA Certified, have become a top choice for Aussie backyards! They’re loved for being low-maintenance, shade-tolerant, and perfect for families with kids and pets. In this blog, we’ll share our expert tips to help you get the very best out of your buffalo lawn.
Buffalo grass will generally grow at a moderate pace. Not quite as fast as a kikuyu or couch lawn, but not as slow as Sir Grange Zoysia.
Generally, buffalo grasses like to be mown between 20 – 60mm high. Usually over winter, keep the height of cut a bit higher and mow lower over the warmer months. Buffalo is generally best mown with a standard rotary mower; however, it can also be mown with a cylinder mower (if it has a higher height of cut setting).
When mowing, it is best always to ensure your mower’s blades are sharp and never remove more than one-third of the leaf with each cut.
Should I Fertilise My Buffalo Lawn?
Buffalo grasses like Sir Walter DNA generally like to have three fertiliser applications a year. Once in spring, summer and again in autumn is ideal for a balanced feed.
When choosing the best fertiliser for buffalo grass, we recommend using Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This fertiliser blend has been specifically developed for buffalo grasses like Sir Walter DNA Certified, containing a balanced NPK ratio. This fertiliser also had a fast and slow-release granule, giving the lawn a good up-front boost, while continuing to feed the lawn for up to 12 weeks.
How Much Water Does a Buffalo Lawn Need?
Once fully established, a buffalo lawn will only need watering on an as-needed basis. In most regions, rainfall will be able to cover your lawns’ watering needs.
Buffalo grasses can show us some signs that they need water. These signs include:
Leaf curling up on itself
Dry or brown leaf
Wilted leaves
If you do need to irrigate your lawn, we recommend watering your lawn for longer, less frequently. By watering your lawn this way, you will help encourage your grass to become more drought-tolerant by encouraging the roots to grow deeper down into the soil base. We recommend watering your lawn in the morning, before the heat of the day, for around 20-30 mins. Avoid late afternoon and night waterings as this will cause your lawn to sit damp overnight, which can lead to fungal issues.
What Weed Killer Can I Use on a Buffalo Lawn?
When using weed killers on a buffalo lawn, such as Sir Walter DNA Certified, it’s essential to read the herbicide label before use to ensure compatibility with buffalo grasses.
The main herbicides that are not safe for use on buffalo lawns will usually contain Dicamba or DSMA as the active ingredients. These weed killers are commonly found in weed n feed products and herbicides designed to remove summer grass.
If you are unsure of the weed that you want to remove from your lawn, please check out our Ultimate Weed Guide for further information.
How Much Sunlight Does Buffalo Grass Need?
Buffalo grasses will generally have a good shade tolerance compared to other turf types, needing a minimum of three to four hours of direct sunlight per day. This makes it the ideal choice for many homes that need shade-tolerant options.
Can I Renovate Buffalo Grass?
Buffalo grasses can be renovated, but there are a few precautions that you will need to take to ensure that you don’t cause more damage than good.
As buffalo grass grows by its above-ground runners, it doesn’t have an underground rhizome like couch and kikuyu grasses to repair from. This means that when scarifying and dethatching, you need to ensure you don’t remove all the above-ground material.
