December 2019 - Lawn Solutions Australia

Lawn herbicides explained

Which selective weedkillers (herbicides) are safe on your lawn?

Weedkillers, or herbicides, keep your grass free of weeds, and a little knowledge in their use can help you avoid a disaster. Non-selective herbicides like glyphosate kill all weeds and your grass. Selective herbicides target one or a couple of types of weeds and grasses and have minimal effects on other plants and lawns.

Let’s look at some common selective herbicides and the weeds they target. We’ll also cover broadleaf herbicides, how some may be unsafe on your lawn, and why this means many Weed ‘n’ Feed type of products also may not be safe.

How to KO winter grass

Winter Grass can be removed by hand, but this can be tedious. A better option is Amgrow Chemspray Winter Grass Killer. You mix Winter Grass Killer with water to apply it. Once applied it breaks down quickly so there’s no residue left in the soil.

Winter Grass Killer kills winter grass by targeting the roots, so it’s critical to spray it early in the lifecycle of the winter grass (in May) before seed heads appear. If it goes to seed, winter grass will appear in your turf the following year and you’ll have similar problems.

Bonus tip: A pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert targets winter grass before it emerges from the soil. Using a combination of a pre-emergent like Oxafert and a selective control like Winter Grass Killer at the right time should ensure your lawn is free of it.

How to neuter nutgrass and Mullumbimby couch

Amgrow Sedgehammer controls nutgrass and Mullumbimby couch in Sir Walter lawns and most other common lawn types. Sedgehammer is for post-emergence control, which means it works on the weeds when you can see them.

How to paralyse paspalum

Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer controls paspalum. This is mixed in a pressure sprayer and the addition of a surfactant or wetting agent is recommended to ensure it adheres better to the paspalum leaf. Spraying the paspalum during the warmer months produces the best results. You may need to apply it more than once to remove it from your lawn.

For kikuyu and buffalo lawns it’s best to spot spray the paspalum and not the entire lawn as it can cause harm to your grass as well. Ensure you adhere to the application rates listed on the product.

How to blast broadleaf weeds

Selective herbicides can target bindii, clover, oxalis and many other broadleaf weeds. However, some of these aren’t safe on all grasses. The main active ingredients include dicamba and bromoxynil. Bromoxynil based herbicides, such as All Purpose Weed Control, can be used on Sir Walter buffalo, but not on older buffalo varieties such as ST buffaloes. Dicamba based herbicides can’t be used on buffalo lawns, which leads us to Weed ‘n’ Feed type products.

Why Weed n Feed is not a magic bullet

Weed n Feed products normally contain a broadleaf herbicide and a fertiliser. They come in a bottle that you attach to your hose and then spray the contents onto your lawn. This sounds good, but a product like this is like a cheap sofa bed – it doesn’t do either of its jobs remarkably well. Why? Read on.

Herbicide Component

The active constituent in Weed n Feed is Dicamba. The rate of Dicamba present in Weed n Feed bottles is very low and isn’t very effective on most broadleaf weeds (hence the very cheap price of Weed n Feed) and you will usually need 2 or 3 applications to get a result.

Dicamba cannot be used on Soft-Leaf buffalo lawns, as it will cause the lawn to die back and turn yellow. This greatly limits the products use in the domestic market as a lot of home lawns in Australia are soft leaf buffalo.

Fertiliser Component

Weed n Feed adds very little nutrient value to the grass. The fertiliser component mainly contains Nitrogen and Iron, which will give the plant a short boost of green colour, but usually contains zero Phosphorus and Potassium, so it does virtually nothing for the root strength and development of the plant. Which means it is hardly a fertiliser at all.

You’re armed, now what?

Now you know how to combat some common weeds and how to select the right product. However, there are some weeds that are difficult to control as there may be no selective herbicide available, while others that are available are extremely expensive. If you have a weed you’re unsure about call your local Lawn Solutions Australia expert in lawn care. If you’d like more information about non-selective herbicides go here.

How to edge your lawn

Which of these edgers is for you?

Six words deflated me like a bindii in a bike tyre: ‘why don’t you do the edges?’ My lawn was looking terrific, but my edges were as fuzzy as riding in the rain wearing glasses. I can’t recall my answer to the question, but a star-wheeled edger soon found a home next to my bike in the shed and lifted my lawn to the next level.

The star-wheeled edger is a manual type, while others are powered. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, which we’ll discuss to sharpen your edger knowledge and your edges.

Manual edgers

Manual edgers are available in four types – hand shears, spades, half-moon edgers and rollers. They best suit smaller areas because they rely on your physical effort. Top tip: use them when the ground is damp! The advantages these edgers provide is they don’t release emissions, they’re low cost, require virtually no maintenance, and they’re easily stored.

  • Half-moon edger – These edgers are like a spade in that they require you to push the blade into the ground with your foot. You’ll achieve the best results by rocking the tool back and forth as you proceed along the edge.
  • Roller edgers also require foot power. They have a metal or wooden pole with either a star-shaped or disc-shaped wheel attached at the bottom. You place the wheel on the hard surface and the cutting edge into the ground, then push with your foot. These are good when they’re used frequently on edges that aren’t too overgrown.

Powered edgers

Powered edgers have a blade that cuts through the edge. The blade height is often adjustable so that you can cut just above ground or to several centimetres below ground. These are great for larger areas and long stretches of edging.

Petrol

Petrol models can have single or multiple wheels; the multiple wheeled types are the most stable.

These edgers can also go around trees or garden beds. There are variations among manufacturers, so you need to read the instructions related to the specific model.

The disadvantages of these are they are relatively noisy, they may need replacement parts (e.g. blades), they take up greater storage space, and they release emissions. Having said this, they will provide a nice straight deep edge that will look great and the more you practice the straighter and cleaner the edge will look.

Atom Professional Lawn Edger
Ozito 2 Stroke Petrol Edger

 

Electric

Electric edgers are cord or battery powered and lighter than petrol models. They are quieter than petrol models, though they don’t have as much power. The benefit of these over the petrol models is there are no emissions and they’re a bit smaller, allowing easier storage.

Ryobi 18v One+ Cordless Edger

Rotary Scissors

Rotary scissors are another tool which can help you get a perfect edge to your lawn. These scissors work by using a pair of scissor-like bladed discs that rotate in a circular motion to trim and shape the edges of the grass.

Makita Rotary Scissors Attachment

What about a trimmer?

Whipper snippers or trimmers aren’t dedicated edging devices; however, they’re often used for this purpose. A rotating flexible nylon line cuts grass, weeds and small unwanted plants. On some models you can rotate the heads so they’re in a vertical position for edging.

Whipper snippers come in several versions: straight shaft or curved shaft with 2- or 4- stroke petrol motors or battery-operated models. They’re especially good for working at an angle.

The main types are corded, battery and petrol-powered trimmers. Petrol trimmers have more power and are much better for larger areas. Trimmers with cords will probably require an extension lead, so are only useful for small areas. They also aren’t as powerful.

If your lawn looks a bit scraggly around the edges, the overall appearance of your lawn is definitely diminished. Most people tend not to have a dedicated lawn edger, so if you are using a Whipper snipper/weed whacker/line trimmer or whatever it is you call it, it is important that you know how to use it to get the best results.

Here’s some tips for getting a great finish every time with a whipper snipper – 

Speed – Your trimmer will work best when at full speed. So, keeping your trimmer line away from the edge and working your way in, is key to maintaining speed. Avoid starting the line trimmer already in the grass you’re cutting for the quickest, cleanest cuts. It’s the tip of the line that is cutting, so keeping the majority of the line clear will result in a cleaner cut.

Spin direction – Depending on which way your trimmer spins, you need to make sure you are cutting with one side and the material is being ejected to the opposite side. So, if your trimmer spins counter clockwise, you need to keep the right side closer to the edge so that material is being ejected away from it. This will keep the cutting path clear and allow you to achieve a much better result.

Edging and tapering – Edging will be important for driveways and paths where you are after a clean edge to something parallel. This is where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is vertical. This will provide a crisp cut line where you want the grass to end. Tapering is used for fences and retaining walls where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is at a slight angle. This will ensure you don’t scalp a full run of grass by trimming parallel and get a nice gradual blend between the object and the grass.

Regular trims – The best edges are ones that are kept on top of and not allowed to get out of control. So, the more you do it, the more likely your edges will stay uniform and the easier they will be to tidy up, and the better you will get at it.

The finish line

Each edger has its place, depending on the size of your yard and your needs. You may need a couple of types to get the look you want and get the edge on your neighbours!

Now you’re a little clearer on the edger(s) you need, get on your bike and get the one you like – chances are you’ll get a few more ‘likes’ for your lawn.

Remember, edgers are just one type of lawn care tool you need to maintain your yard. Head to this blog post for more great information on other tools.

There’s a water tank to suit you…

Water Tanks

In times of drought we can all do our bit to ease the pressure on our water suppliers. One way is to install a water tank, which can collect rain when it does eventually fall. A tank provides many benefits, including lowering the use of mains water, helping with water restrictions, assisting in times of bushfires and preventing stormwater run-off. However, before you shower yourself in these rewards there are several things to know and consider.

The most important thing to know is that setting up a tank is not a DIY task; a licensed plumber must install your tank and the installation must meet your water supplier and council’s requirements.

How does a tank system work?

Essentially, a tank collects rainwater from the roof. Usually a pump is connected, most often on the ground next to the tank, to pump the collected water from the tank to toilets, a washing machine and to outdoor taps.

What size is right for you?

The size of your tank depends on variables such as what you intend to use it for (e.g. toilets, washing machine, outdoor irrigation), your available space, annual rainfall, and catchment area, i.e. your roof dimensions. Talk to your plumber about what you’d like and find out what is permitted in your area from your water supplier and council. There are numerous online calculators available to give you a guide for the size you might require.

What material is best?

Tanks are made from concrete, plastic (polyethylene), fibreglass and steel. Concrete tanks are often stored below ground because they can handle a lot of weight.

A typical backyard set-up is a 1000L polyethylene, slimline tank that sits on a concrete base. The polyethylene is UV stabilised so it lasts a long time outdoors. Polyethylene tanks provide good all-round features, though they can’t be recycled at the end of their life.

Fibreglass tanks resist corrosion, but because light can pass through them, they require a protective coating to reduce algae growth.

Steel tanks may be galvanised or stainless. These tanks are often used to store large amounts of water.

Above or below ground?

Above ground tanks are more common, but you can store a tank under a driveway or even beneath your home. Both below ground options are best installed in new builds. A tank that stores water in a bladder can also be used if there is space beneath your house or a deck.

Do you need a pump?

You’ll need a pump if you’re connecting your tank to internal piping and if you’re on flat ground. You may get away without a pump if your tank sits high enough to generate adequate pressure by gravity. Pumps can sit on the ground (usually next to the tank) or in the tank. On-ground pumps last longer, but in-tank pumps are quieter.

A simple set-up for lawn irrigation

If you just intend to use your tank to water your lawn, you may not need a pump at all.

Though if you do employ a pump, you can incorporate a pop-up sprinkler system.

The best spot for a tank

Consulting a plumber is essential to ensure the right placement for a tank. Keep in mind though, you want to minimise plumbing work and maximise the catchment area of your roof. You’ll also need outdoor power for a pump. Lastly, it’s best to place a tank in a shaded area to avoid deterioration of the construction material.

Form a little think tank…

… with a plumber to determine the size and type of tank to suit your property and uses. More information on the use of rainwater tanks is available in this guide:

https://www1.health.gov.au/internet/main/publishing.nsf/Content/ohp-enhealth-raintank-cnt.htm

TurfTalk – December 2019

TurfTalk – Australia’s newest and most comprehensive turf magazine.

TurfTalk is a free quarterly magazine and distributed to over 3000 landscape and turf professionals.

TurfTalk is suitable for all turf professionals, from turf growers to landscapers, golf courses and sports ground curators, to government and related industry organisations.

TurfTalk is here to share with you the latest information on the turf industry, the exciting developments in turf research and to keep you up to date with everything you need to know about turf.

Some topics in this issue include:

  • Bendigo Botanic Gardens – Garden of the Future
  • Wimbledon Turf Trials
  • Teven Valley Golf Course Redevelopment
  • AusGAP Study Grants
  • Manchester City FC
  • The arrival of Primo Zoysia

For more information:

Phone – 1300 883 711

Email – [email protected]

Spring Lawn Renovation

Welcome to our Spring Lawn Renovation Video Series.

It’s easy to get excited about all the things you might want to do to have your lawn the envy of the street. But it’s important that you don’t act too early and that you do things in a particular order to ensure the best results. In our Spring Lawn Renovation Video Series we take you through the main steps to reno your lawn so you have it humming along as quickly as possible.

Lawn herbicides explained

How to dethatch your lawn

Why it’s Important to Aerate Your lawn

How To Top Dress Your Lawn