July 2019 - Lawn Solutions Australia

Month: July 2019

7 Great Lawn Game Ideas

Posted on by nathe

Get the kids off their tablets and boost their vitamin D levels with a bit of sunshine. The following lawn games are aimed at the entire family and can provide hours of backyard fun. There are games suitable for all yards, from a courtyard patch of couch to a double block of buffalo.

Giant Jenga

Build your own set. Make it big. Stack. Play. Remember to scatter when your tower tumbles!

Slip and slide

Obviously suited to sloping yards, this is a classic backyard activity for the youngsters – great from late spring, through to early autumn. You could make one yourself with a number of tarpaulins strung together with a sprinkler at the top.

wetting agents

Bocce

Bond over Bocce! By no means limited to the older player, though requiring less effort than slip and slide, say, this classic game is terrific for all ages.

Yard dominoes

Here’s another one for the avid DIYer. Make them out of wood or whatever you can dream up. You could supersize them by using foam. Make it easy and have it cut by the supplier. Just add the dots. Now, there’s another activity for the hobbyist in the family.

Connect four

There’s a theme running here – build it and they will come. Show off your dovetail joints and make your own giant four-in-a-row game. Get the whole family involved by getting the kids to paint the discs the colour of their choice.

Lawn twister

If you’re not a lawn fanatic you may be happy to paint spots directly onto your lawn. Alternatively, you could use coloured paper plates.

Giant Yard Pong (AKA BucketBall)

Like the smaller version, but on a larger scale! (Excluding beer of course)

How to repair a lawn damaged by the cold weather

Posted on by nathe

Your lawn can come out of winter with the colour and liveliness of a rubber chicken. So if you want to give it a flying start to spring read on.

Winter Desiccation:

Commonly known in the turf industry as winter kill, winter desiccation is a general term for turf dying in extremely cold temperatures. Severe moisture loss occurs when water in the grass is lost faster than it is replaced.

Desiccation can occur on turf any time of year, but winter kill happens for a variety of reasons during the cooler months, including crown hydration, low temperature kill and ice encasement.

No turfgrass is immune to winter desiccation. You can tell it is occurring as the turf grass leaves will start to appear yellow and look dead. This can sometimes lead to the roots and crown of the plant also dying. This is due to it not being able to replace the moisture loss it endures in extreme temperatures.

Frost Damage:

Frost damage is the most commonly seen issue in Australian turf grass in the cooler months. Whenever grass becomes colder than the surrounding air on cold, clear nights this is when frost can occur.

Frost damage causes the leaf blade to lose colour for a period of time but will rarely kill the turf. It almost always recovers to 100% once the weather warms up again in spring.

Warm season turf grass varieties are most susceptible to frost damage, but cool season grasses are not totally immune in severe temperatures.

Turf will recover by itself naturally from frost damage, but you can minimise the damage by staying off your frosted lawn, irrigating the frost off or using a natural turf grass colourant such as ColourGuard.

Crown Hydration:

One of the main factors why turfgrass suffers from winter kill (dying off and turning yellow in freezing temperatures, not that common in Australia as it doesn’t get cold enough) is crown hydration.

Crown hydration normally occurs in late winter/early spring when the days and soil temperature warm up. The turf starts absorbing moisture again, and then is hit soon after with freezing temperatures, so that moisture that hasn’t drained away freezes on the turf.  Ice then forms on the crown of the plant and causes the cells to rupture, which kills the plant.

Crown hydration normally happens in turf growing in heavy soils which hold moisture as opposed to free draining sand profiles.

Snow Mould:

Again, not so common in Australia is snow mould. Snow mould is a disease caused when snow sits on turf grass for a period of time.

This will generally only occur when the ground isn’t completely frozen, but still has snow sitting on it. Snow mould causes circle patches in lawns ranging from a couple of cm to 30cm in diameter. There are two types of snow mould, grey and pink. Grey is less damaging and will only burn the leaf of the grass. Pink is far more severe and will kill the crown and roots of the turf. Both grey and pink snow mould are unique diseases as they can survive the summer months under the ground or in plant debris.

Methods of Repair

Returfing or reseeding: This is the most common method for repairing severely winter damaged turf. Returfing is best done in spring once the weather warms up. This involves removing any dead grass matter, reconditioning and levelling the soil and then laying turf over the top.

Reseeding can be done during the cooler months if it is a cool season turf and involves the same process as returfing, but involves broadcasting seed as opposed to laying turf.

Feed: You should always fertilise your lawn coming out of winter once the weather warms up. Fertilising will provide vital micro and macronutrients to your turf lost over the harsh winter months. Nitrogen rich fertiliser will also help your lawn to repair any damage which may have occurred.

Dethatch: Dethatching when the weather warms up is a great way to generate new growth in your lawn and to remove any dead matter that may be there after winter damage.

Dethatching can be done on all warm season varieties and can be done using a scarifying machine. It can also be done by lowering the height of your mower and scalping your lawn. Always be sure to only scalp right to the ground if you have a rhizomatous turf variety (roots in the ground) like couch, kikuyu or zoysia. If you have a buffalo lawn, do not scalp as low and make sure you can still see turf runners on top of the soil.

Now you know how, transform your lawn from fowl to fabulous.

Will fertiliser harm my pet(s)?

Posted on by nathe

There are a number of steps you can take to minimise the risk of harm to your pet(s) associated with fertiliser use.

Firstly, always read product labels and follow all label instructions. If you are ever unsure on anything, please confirm with your supplier before applying your fertiliser.

Regarding granular and liquid fertiliser, always store them out of reach of your pet(s). Granular fertiliser can easily be mistaken for pet food, and liquids can be mistaken for water. Keep your pet(s) indoors while you fertilise your lawn. Read on for advice on how long to keep your pet(s) off your lawn (it depends on the type).

Granular fertiliser is safe to use as long as the granules are watered correctly into the lawn/earth. Once this is done, they are very difficult for your pet(s) to access. But it’s always best to keep pets off your lawn for 24 hours after application.

Fertiliser and Chickens

The main issue with granular fertiliser regards chickens. Chickens can source granules lower in the turf profile than other animals. Either do not spread granular fertiliser where chickens roam or ensure the granules have dissolved before letting your chickens return. This usually takes a few days.

Most fertilisers however are not that harmful to most pets; here is a good link you can check out http://www.pethealthnetwork.com/dog-health/dog-toxins-poisons/fertilizer-and-mulch-dangers-dogs

Regarding liquid fertilisers, once they are dried on the leaf then you are fine to let your pet(s) onto your lawn. This usually takes a few hours depending on the weather.

If your pet is a known grass eater, it is best to keep them off your lawn for 48 hours, or as long as possible. Again, if you are using a liquid fertiliser and your pet does eat grass, please check with the manufacturer for what exactly is in the product. You should always request a safety datasheet for that product.

Of course, if you believe your pet(s) may have inhaled, ingested or come into contact with fertiliser (signs can include burnt paw pads, red and watering eyes, vomiting and lethargy) seek veterinary advice immediately.

Follow the above advice and you can provide a safe playground for your pet(s).

Attack before alien medic weeds colonise your lawn

Posted on by nathe

Weeds of the medic (medicago) genus want to take over your lawn.

Don’t mistake these green space invaders for other turf pests. Here’s how to identify and eliminate them.

Burr Medic (Medicago polymorpha)

This hairless intruder likes to occupy soil high in phosphate. As the name suggests it produces burrs, which contain seeds. Beware! The burrs can attach to your dog’s coat or yours. Its leaves are heart shaped and clover-like, with serrated edges. Burr medic produces tap roots and small yellow flowers.

burr medic

(Image Source: Turf Finder)

Your defense system:

Hand-to-land combat: pull ’em out with your fingers.

Chemical warfare: Use a broad leaf herbicide, such as All Purpose Weed Control.

Spotted Medic (Medicago Arabica)

This encroacher has black spots on its leaves, which are again, clover-like and serrated. Spotted medic also produces a yellow flower.

spotted medic

Your defense system:

Hand-to-land combat: pull ’em out with your fingers.

Chemical warfare: Use a broad leaf herbicide, such as All Purpose Weed Control.

Black Medic (Medicago lupulina)

This trespasser grows well where soil is compacted and dry. It produces a small yellow flower and has clover-like leaves that are serrated near the tip. Black medic may produce a tap root. Don’t confuse it with oxalis or other clovers. The presence of black medic can indicate your soil lacks nitrogen.

black medic

Your defense system:

Hand-to-land combat: Pull it out by hand or aerate your lawn to overcome compaction. Mowing high may also help.

Chemical warfare: Use a broad leaf herbicide, such as All Purpose Weed Control or a pre-emergent broad leaf herbicide such as Oxafert.

Selective v Non-selective Herbicides

Posted on by nathe

What’s the difference?

There are two main classifications used to describe the types of herbicides available for killing weeds in your lawn. It is extremely important that you choose the correct one for the situation. Incorrect use can lead to disastrous results, particularly if it involves blanket spraying a non-selective herbicide.

The answers as to how these types of herbicides function lie in the names.

Selective Herbicides

Selective herbicides are ‘selective’ – they only work on a particular type of weed or grass and if used as advised will only harm the intended target and not everything they come in contact with.

Bindii, clover, oxalis and many others – your common broadleaf weeds, can all be targeted with a selective herbicide. There are however selective herbicides that are not safe for use on all grass types. This is where it is very important you read the label and only apply the herbicide to a turf variety that it’s safe to use on. Buffalo grass for example, requires a specific type of active ingredient, usually Bromoxynil. Selective herbicides with the active ingredient Dicamba will harm the weeds as well as your buffalo lawn.

Non-selective Herbicides

On the other hand, there are the non-selective herbicides. There are fewer options with these herbicides, but the key ingredient is almost always glyphosate. Some brands include Round Up and Zero and as the names suggest, non-selective herbicides will definitely not be selective and will harm any living plant species they come in contact with.

Some weeds are difficult to control as there are either no selective herbicides available or they are extremely price prohibitive. In this situation a non-selective herbicide may be your only option. But remember, these herbicides will kill everything they contact. Application is recommended only when hand removal has failed or isn’t an option. If very carefully applied, using a small paintbrush where you can ensure that only the weeds you are targeting come in contact with the non-selective herbicide, then it may be effective.

Generally speaking, though, non-selective herbicides are best used for blanket spraying before installation of a new lawn, for stopping the spread of runners or weeds via edging or for targeting weeds in concrete areas of garden beds where you can easily target the weed or grass without affecting the surrounding plant life.

Save yourself the heartache like the image above! Always carefully read the label of all products before applying to your lawn.

Pass this test (it’s easy) and your lawn will love you

Posted on by nathe

Is your lawn going the colour of custard? Could be your soil’s a little ‘sweet.’ That is, your soil’s pH may be too high. Your lawn won’t perform its best with a soil pH too high (7 to 14, alkaline) or too low (0 to 6, acidic). You could waste fertiliser too, as the lawn won’t feed on it as well if the pH isn’t right. A pH between 6 and 7 and your lawn’s in heaven. And the perfect time to get it in that sweet spot is when you’re laying new lawn. However, new or established, grab a soil test kit or pH meter and test your soil.

A soil test kit even tells you what you need to do to adjust the pH. But if you’re using a meter, then here’s a guide as to what to do next:

For sandy loam soil, you can raise the pH by one unit by spreading the equivalent of 150g of liming material (calcium carbonate) per square metre. (A handful is about 100g.)

Heavy clay soils will need at least 250g to raise the pH by one unit. A super fine grade of lime works the fastest.

For an established lawn, which may lack magnesium, mix 50/50 lime and dolomite as the liming material to get the right balance of calcium and magnesium. Dolomite is only available in one grade.

To lower your soil’s pH use a sulphur product, such as sulphate of ammonia. You can reduce the pH by one unit by applying 100g of sulphate of ammonia per square metre.

Water them in well after application.

Soil conditioners can help you to get the most out of your lawn, too:

Wetting agents assist in getting water to your lawn, rather than the water running off.

Water storage crystals absorb water and make it available to your lawn’s roots.

Fertiliser, such as Lawn Solutions Premium Lawn Fertiliser, gives your lawn essential nutrients and trace elements.

Gypsum (calcium sulphate) helps to break down clay soils to improve drainage and soil structure.

Take your soil from compacted, acidic or too sweet, to sweet as – your lawn will love it.

What’s hot and what’s not? In grasses that is

Posted on by Kim Tranter

Did you know that not all grass is the same? There are actually two different types of grass, warm season and cool season. Cool season grasses will continue to grow and retain their colour throughout the cooler months. Whereas warm season varieties slow down in growth and lose some colour when the cooler temperatures hit.

Continue reading “What’s hot and what’s not? In grasses that is”