Are you unsure on what grass type is best suited for you, your family and your area? As there are so many different options available on the market it can be a daunting task to find which one is best suited for you. To help we have put together a short quiz to help find the best grass for you and your needs!
Before choosing a variety it is always best to have a chat with your local Lawn Solutions Australia Member for specific advice for your local area and climate. You can find who your local members are and contact details here.
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Over the years we have encountered many great Aussie lawns! In this blog, we will be taking a look at a few of our favourite lawns and seeing what lawn care activities each of the owners have taken to keep their lawns looking great!
Ever heard of that one crazy lawnie that’s mowing his lawn everyday? Well, I’m that guy on my street! What started as a DIY lockdown project when I decided to sort out my landscaping, has escalated to a full blown grass and lawn tools obsession.
Over a two year period, I’ve ended up with what seems like more mowers and lawn tools than the blades of grass on my yard! (Not to mention a social media content creation addiction!).
My care routine, across a full season involves, mowing as often as I can. I mow 3 to 4 times a week through Spring and Summer. Given I have Bermuda which tends to thatch up quite easily, I groom once every 4 to 6 weeks as well.
Having over done the product applications through my first year, I’m now trying to take a “less is more” approach with my TifTuf. I tend to fertilise once every 3 to 4 months but instead give my lawn a lot of organics to help both soil and plant health. In addition to this, I also use a quality pre-emergent so have almost no weeds to deal with, and a preventative Insecticide twice a year.
The lawn is my “happy place”. It’s where I go when I need to switch off and rejuvenate. I’m not overprotective of it and truly believe that it’s true value is in the time spent on it and not in trying to keep people off it.
I keep it really simple and don’t kill the lawn with kindness. Sir Grange is slow to establish and doesn’t really show it’s fully potential for 12 -15 months. I apply a granular fertiliser once a year normally around October, after a renovation. Don’t be afraid the remove the thatch and shave the lawn down, leave for 2 weeks and when top dress with a sandy soil. The rest of the year I apply a liquid fertiliser and wetting agent mix about every 8 weeks.
In October and February I apply Acelepryn and the same time apply a preventative fungicide. I find the secret to having a great Sir Grange lawn is the mowing. I use a Scott Bonnar cylinder mower, I have the cylinder ground and new bed knife annually, but before each mow I file and put a sharp edge on the bed knife – this is the secret to clean cutting. I don’t have a strict watering pattern only when required.
I use a greens grade granular fertiliser small prill fertiliser – Anderson Nutri DG 18-1-15, Liquid switch between Exceed liquid fertiliser and Lawn Kelper Liquid and Lawn Rescue wetting agent.
Basically, I am following the LawnPride Australia Buffalo program. I’m currently mowing 3 times a week with a cylinder mower at 20mm. Only water as required (we have had lots of rain recently so not a lot). Nothing super special, just look after it and keep the fertilising program up to it and it always stays in top shape.
My lawn care routine involves regular mowing 2 to 3 times a week and grooming every 4 weeks during the growing season. Every 3 months I fertilise with a granular fertiliser and apply a liquid fertiliser fortnightly. During the growing season, I also use a Plant Growth Regulator (PGR) to help tighten up the lawn and use a pre-emergent every 5-6 months to help stop seasonal weeds.
Every Spring I will do a lawn renovation. This consists of core aerating, dethatching, a low mow back to dirt, and a top dress with washed Sydney sand.
The key to keeping my lawn in good shape is irrigation and mowing above all else. I find the Sir Grange needs very little inputs to keep it healthy and green. I use Acelyprn GR for insurance against pests and renovate once a year. I use Oxafert as a granular fertiliser in spring and autumn so I don’t need to do a separate pre-emergent. I walk the lawn regularly and hand weed mostly, although the Sir Grange is a beast against weeds also. The occasional spray for nut grass as required and a few liquids every now and again.
I like to keep my lawn care routine quite simple as I believe the secret to my success is the prep work. I use lawn solutions Oxafert and Acelepryn GR a must on any lawn. For feeding I use liquid fertilisers and seaweed concentrate and water when she’s looking thirsty. My mowing height varies from 14mm to 32mm depending on how the leaf looks, all thanks to the ozito cyclinder mower.
I have Eureka Kikuyu that I installed and laid myself in November 2019. All my care products I purchase online through Lawn Solutions. It is constantly mowed every 5 or 6 days with my Bushranger 500CM Twin Drive Cylinder Mower at a height of 25mm. It’s wonderfully lush, vibrant, and soft dark green leaves are just perfect to wake up to on a Saturday morning.
We hope that our favourite lawns have spouted some inspiration for your home! For more information lawn care advice, check out our other lawn care blogs here.
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Insecticides and Fungicides are commonly used terms when it comes to lawn care. In this blog, we look at exactly what insecticides and fungicides are, the different types available and when you should use them on your lawn.
Insecticides
When your lawn is getting damaged by an infestation of insects and bugs, you may need to look at using an insecticide to help stop and prevent further damage from occurring.
It is important to note, insects are a normal part of your garden and lawns ecosystem. In fact, many insects like earthworms, praying mantises, bees and lady beetles are beneficial for not just your lawn but your garden’s ecosystem too! So, if you do see bugs and insects in your lawn an insecticide is not always needed.
Some of the main damage causing insects to lawns are infestations of army worm, lawn grubs and mole crickets.
Different types of insecticides
There are a few different types of insecticides available with different active ingredients. Some of the main active ingredients used to stop damage causing insects in lawns are Bifenthrin, Esfenvelerate, or Beta-Cyfluthrin. These types of insecticides are designed to get a quick knockdown.
Acelepryn GR – it’s safe for bees!
There are also insecticides available that will prevent damage causing insects. These products contain the active Acelepryn.
When to apply
If you only notice a few insects like beetles and worms in your lawn, in most cases an insecticide is not needed.
If there is an infestation of damage causing insects like armyworm or lawn grubs, it is best to apply a fast-acting insecticide as soon as possible. To ensure you have fully removed the damage causing insect repeated applications after 7-10 days may be needed to ensure you are treating the entire lifecycle.
When using Acelepryn it is best to apply at any 6-month intervals for season round grub prevention. As a general guide, apply in September/October and March/April for a full year’s worth of protection.
Product recommendations
For fast acting insecticides we recommend using Battle Insecticide which is a concentrate for mixing in a knapsack.
For a preventative, we recommend using Grub Guard Ultimate, Acelepryn GR and Acelepryn Liquid. Acelepryn works by targeting a specific muscle receptor that is common with damaging causing insects. Other non-target organisms like bees, earthworms, birds, fish, dogs, cats, and mammals don’t use the same muscle receptors, making it one of the safest insecticides on the market!
When applying insecticides, ensure you are following the correct application rates and instructions.
Fungicides
Fungicides are used to help stop fungi and diseases from growing. For the most part, fungal diseases are not common in residential lawns. Fungal diseases can appear with the conditions are right, usually damp, and humid conditions. They can also appear from over watering, soil compaction, poor mowing habits and incompatible grass varieties for your area.
For the most part fungal diseases can be avoided with regular mowing, irrigation management, shade management and aeration. If a disease doesn’t clear up after this and the weather is clear, a fungicide may be needed.
Different types of fungicides
There are 2 different types of fungicides available, contact and systemic.
Contact fungicides will treat the fungus that is currently there. They won’t be absorbed by the leaf and are best used for the control of foliar diseases.
A systemic fungicide will treat and prevent fungi and diseases. Systemic fungicides are absorbed by the plant and can kill the spores of the fungus, which helps prevent the fungi.
When to apply
When fungi or disease is present, the first call of action is to improve the environment. This can include reducing shade, mowing regularly, watering only in the morning and aerating. In most cases fungi and diseases will go away on their own as the environmental conditions improve. If the fungi or disease is still present in the following weeks a fungicide may then be required.
Product recommendations
When using fungicides it is always best to check if the product you are using is labelled to stop the specific disease or fungi in your lawn.
For contact fungicides a great all-round option is Mancozeb DG. This fungicide controls Helminthosporium, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, Grey Leaf Spot.
For a systemic fungicide we recommend using Heritage Maxx. Heritage Maxx provides control and prevention of a broad-spectrum turf diseases including Pythium, Anthracnose, Brown Patch and Spring Dead Spot. It will also provide consistent protection of new growth for up to 28 days after application.
For more information on insecticides, fungicides, and more lawn care products, check out our other blogs here.
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Do you know the difference between the common grass varieties like Buffalo, Zoysia, Couch and Kikuyu? Put your lawn type knowledge to the test!
Want more information on the common grass types available, their distinguishing features and characteristics? Check out our blog for more information here.
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We love sharing our knowledge of lawns, providing advice on the different turf varieties available and explaining the different lawn care products and how best to look after your lawns. But who is Lawn Solutions Australia?
Lawn Solutions Australia
Lawn Solutions Australia, known as LSA for short, is a national network of locally owned, and mostly family operated turf businesses.
To become an LSA Member you must grow turf to a very high standard and be approved by the Australian Genetic Assurance Program for turf called AusGAP to grow the certified grasses that LSA Members supply.
These turf grasses were introduced from LSA’s extensive turf research and development program. This program has the largest turf research facility in the Southern Hemisphere.
As part of this turf research program, we work with some of the world’s best turf breeders and scientists. We are wanting to find new and improved grasses that provide consumers better choices when looking for a new lawn variety.
Turf Trials
Thousands of grasses are bred and tested before a short list of elite performers. They are then put into further trials testing how they perform under wear, shade, and drought conditions.
If the grasses are successful in those trials, they will then undergo further trials. These involve herbicide resistance, establishment, and recovery speed and harvestability.
We trial these grasses in a range of climates right across Australia. This helps us see how they will handle the Aussie conditions. LSA will also compare them against existing turf varieties to see how they stand up.
We are looking for grasses that don’t just perform or survive. We are looking for new grasses that provide a point of difference, show exceptional qualities, new qualities unseen in the marketplace before. The cream of the crop.
It is not until or if we find this new grass that we will release to LSA Members for turf production.
The results of this program are represented in the successes achieved by each of the grasses released.
Sir Walter DNA Certified
Sir Walter DNA Certified soft leaf buffalo has led the way as the most successful commercial turf grass in Australia history. It has a great shade tolerance and is incredibly versatile across a range of climates.
TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda
TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is a somewhat newly introduced grass compared to Sir Walter, that has become the first and only turf grass in the world to be awarded the Smart Approved WaterMark for water efficiency and drought tolerance.
Bred out of the famous Tifton University in Georgia by the world’s best. TifTuf has shown superior qualities to that of over 30,000 different varieties. It is an absolute stand out when it comes to not just this variety of grass, but all grasses.
Sir Grange Zoysia
Sir Grange Zoysia – A grass like no other, Sir Grange can be kept at a range of heights. It’s a slow growing grass that is providing an alternative lawn option. This has never been available at this quality to consumers before.
Originally bred for golf courses, so you know it’s impressive. Sir Grange known as BRF Zeon Zoysia in the US, was used on the Olympics Golf Course in Rio.
Zoysia Australis
Zoysia Australis is a new variety of Zoysia Japonica that is redefining what we normally expect from zoysia grasses. It’s a new zoysia variety that provides solutions for Aussie families with its ability to be installed in a wide range of areas.
We can’t wait to share with you some of the exciting new grasses we currently have in development.
If you are looking to install a new lawn or want to know about any of the grasses our members supply, please get in touch with us here at Lawn Solutions Australia or with your local LSA Member.
For Australian lawns that thrive, Lawn Solutions Australia also offers a comprehensive range of expertly formulated lawn care products. Developed in collaboration with professional turf growers and tailored to local conditions, our products deliver superior results for residential lawns, commercial landscapes, and public spaces alike. Trusted nationwide, Lawn Solutions Australia provides the science-backed solutions Australian lawns need to stay healthy, green, and resilient all year.
What sets Lawn Solutions Australia apart is its deep connection to the Australian turf industry. Unlike generic lawn products developed for overseas markets, Lawn Solutions Australia’s lawn care range is created with local conditions in mind, from extreme heat and drought to heavy rainfall and varied soil types. Each product is designed to work alongside premium Australian turf varieties, ensuring consistent, reliable results for home lawns, commercial spaces, and public landscapes.
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When looking at lawn care products, you will often hear the name fertilisers and herbicides used a lot. In this blog, we look at what exactly fertilisers and herbicides are, the different types available, and when you should use them on your lawn.
Fertilisers
Your lawn is like any other plant. It needs oxygen, water, sunlight, and nutrients to thrive. If your soil is lacking in nutrients, it won’t be able to perform to its full potential. Fertilisers can be used to help replace missing nutrients.
The 3 main macro-nutrients your lawn needs to thrive are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium otherwise known as NPK.
Nitrogen is largely responsible for the growth of the leaves and is the most talked about nutrient when it comes to lawns.
Phosphorus is largely responsible for root growth.
Potassium is a nutrient that helps the overall functions of the plant perform correctly. Potassium also helps the plant use nitrogen efficiently.
Fertilisers usually contain other micro-nutrients like iron, calcium, sulphur, zinc, manganese… the list goes on!
Different types of fertilisers
There are many different types of fertilisers available, from liquids to granular, slow release, fast release, and controlled release.
Granular fertilisers are a popular option and are easy to apply. Granular options are usually available as a slow release and will deliver nutrients to the lawn over a certain period. They are best spread out using a fertiliser spreader to help apply the product evenly.
Liquid fertilisers will provide much quicker results as they are absorbed into the leaf blade of the grass. They are best applied to a lawn using a knapsack or pressure sprayer.
When to apply
Granular fertilisers are best to only be applied 2-3 times a year. Once in Spring, Summer, and Autumn. We recommend using the long weekends as a guide on when to do this, October long weekend, Australia Day, and the Easter long weekend.
Liquid fertilisers can be applied more frequently as they are absorbed and used by the plant faster. Monthly applications of liquid fertilisers are usually recommended when active growth is present or when nutrient deficiency symptoms are visible.
Product recommendations
Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser contains a combination of slow and fast release granules that will give your lawn a quick initial boost and will continue to feed the lawn for up to 12 weeks. This is a well-balanced fertiliser that contains all the essential nutrients your lawn needs to stay healthy and is suitable for all lawn varieties.
Exceed Liquid Fertiliser is a great liquid fertiliser option. Exceed will give your lawn a quick boost as it is absorbed by the leaf of the grass.
Herbicides
If your lawn has weeds or other grasses growing in it, a herbicide can be used to remove it. There is a vast range of herbicides available, some will remove all plant material including grass and others are selective herbicides that target a specific weed.
When using herbicides, you will need to read the label to ensure the herbicide you are using is safe for your lawn type.
Different types of herbicides
There are a few different types of herbicides available.
Pre-emergent herbicides like Oxafert will help stop weed seeds that are already in your lawn, stopping the weed before it grows and spreads. These types of herbicides target seasonal weeds like Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crabgrass/Crowsfoot, Creeping Oxalis.
Post-emergent herbicides will remove the weeds that are already growing in the lawn.
The most common type of herbicide on the market is a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control or Amgrow Bin Die. These will remove common broadleaf weeds like Bindii, Clover, Catsear, Creeping Oxalis, Cudweed, and Plain Thistle.
For other types of weeds, you will need to use a specific type of herbicide of the weed you are wanting to remove. For more information on what herbicide you should use to target a specific weed, check out our other blogs here.
When to apply
When using pre-emergent herbicides, it is best to time your application just before the seeds start to germinate. To stop seasonal winter weeds like Winter Grass it is best to apply a pre-emergent in mid to late Autumn, or when the temperatures start to drop in your location. To stop seasonal summer weeds like Summer Grass and Crabgrass/Crowsfoot apply a pre-emergent in early to mid-spring or when the temperatures are starting to warm up.
When treating weeds that have already started to grow, it is best to treat them as early as possible to help prevent them from spreading throughout the lawn.
Weed n Feed products
When it comes to removing weeds and fertilising, a product that does both sounds perfect, right? However, we recommend using both weeding and feeding products separately to achieve better results. Weed n Feed products contain a small fertiliser and herbicide component. When applied they don’t contain enough of either to benefit the grass. Please have a look here for more information on why we recommend this here.
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Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo lawns have played an important role in over 1,000,000 Aussie backyards. The household name has stood the test of time, continuing to be one of the best choices for Australian homes. This grass has thrived in the Australian climate with its drought tolerance, low maintenance, soft touch, and high wear.
Brent Redman is a second-generation turf farmer from here in the Hunter Valley, NSW, and is the owner of Buchanan Turf Supplies. Brent began turf cutting in the late 70’s. By the mid-80’s he had purchased 20 acres here in the rich river flats of Maitland.
At the time buffalo was just buffalo and Brent ended up trialling 5 different varieties within a 2-acre plot.
Many turf farmers were having struggles with their buffalo, but Brent realised he was not facing these same troubles with one of the buffalo varieties he had growing on his farm and offered some samples to trial for their farms.
As this buffalo continued to grow on Brent’s farm, a small area was found to be growing which was even better, maintaining a greener winter colour, a healthier root system and it was taking over the existing buffalo.
Brent noticed the potential of this new variety and began propagating the grass to protect the purity and integrity of the variety. A variety which would soon become known as Sir Walter.
Where did the Sir Walter name come from?
This grass was named to reflect the qualities that the grass possesses. Initially the acronym ‘WALT’ was created, standing for ‘Winter Active, Low Thatch’.
It was also decided to add a reference to the significant environmental benefits of the grass, with the addition of the ER for ‘Environmentally Responsible’.
A grass this good needed to be anointed, with a symbolic ‘knighting’ and the Sir prefix added to honour the exceptional qualities of the grass.
S I R W inter A ctive L ow T hatch E nvironmentally R esponsible
The rest is history as they say, with it being expanded and produced right across Australia. Sir Walter today is an ‘Iconically Aussie’ brand and is undoubtedly the most successful commercial turf variety in Australian history.
As a result of this success deception and substitution by competitors has occurred. Many varieties over the years have claimed to be ‘just like’, ‘same as’ or ‘bred from’.
How do I know the Sir Walter I am buying is genuine?
Sir Walter supplied by accredited and licensed suppliers is now known as Sir Walter DNA Certified. This extension of the name was developed to provide the assurance to consumers that the Sir Walter they are buying is DNA tested.
This turf matches the original breeder Sir Walter plant material bred at Brent Redmans farm developed over 20 years ago. Only Lawn Solutions Australia turf producers can provide this ‘Original Breeder’ guarantee.
If you want genuine Sir Walter, validated by DNA testing, look for Sir Walter DNA Certified from accredited suppliers with the Original Breeder Guarantee from Mr Redman.
To find contact details for your local Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo grass supplier, click here.
If you would like some more information relating to any specific products that we supply, please feel free to get in touch with us here at Lawn Solutions Australia.
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Winter Grass is one of the more frustrating weeds to remove. As winter grass grows it produces triangular shaped seed heads. These seeds make the weed easier to identify but are a sign that it has already started spreading for next season. In this blog, we look at what winter grass is and how you can stop it from spreading throughout your lawn.
Winter Grass, botanically known as Poa annua is a low growing weed that has soft, drooping green leaves, and grows in tufts with white seeds. This weed will start to appear when the average soil temperature drops to 16 – 17 degrees. For most areas, this is around mid to late Autumn or when you start to notice the cooler temperatures. When the soil temperatures drop below this, the winter grass seeds that are in the soil will start to germinate and grow.
How Does Winter Grass Spread?
As Winter Grass continues to grow, it will produce triangular seeds heads. These seeds are then dropped into the lawn, or spread by wind, birds, underfoot… and will grow a new Winter Grass weed/plant.
Prevention
Pre-emergent herbicides like Oxafert and Oxafert Plus target seasonal weed seeds that are already in the soil, stopping them from germinating, before the weed starts to appear! Pre-emergents are best applied in mid to late Autumn, or when the temperatures start to drop in your location. This is when the seasonal winter weed seeds that are already in the soil will start to germinate.
You can also apply a pre-emergent in early to mid Spring, or when the temperatures are starting to rise to help stop seasonal summer weeds, like Summer Grass and Crabgrass/Crowsfoot.
How Pre-Emergents Work
Pre-emergents work by forming a barrier at the soil level, affecting the germination of any new seedlings. This prevents any new weeds from growing and spreading throughout your lawn for up to 12 weeks.
It is important to note, pre-emergents will only stop weeds during germination and won’t stop any existing weeds that are already in the lawn. If you want to target weeds that are already growing in your lawn, it is best to use a post-emergent herbicide for control.
How to Apply Oxafert
When applying Oxafert and Oxafert Plus, spread out the granules evenly by using a sweeping hand motion or apply with a fertiliser spreader for even coverage. Oxafert and Oxapro are best applied to dry foliage and watered in immediately after application.
Oxafert 3kgOxafert Plus 20kg
If liquid products are more your style, pre-emergent Barricade is available as a liquid. This is best applied in a knapsack or pressure sprayer.
Barricade Pre-Emergent
Winter Grass in Your Lawn Already?
If Winter Grass has already infiltrated your lawn, it is best to use a selective post-emergent herbicide. Amgrow Winter Grass Killer is a selective herbicide safe to use on most varieties including Blue Couch, Common Couch, Bent, Buffalo (including Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo) and Brown top lawns. This is not safe to use on Kikuyu or Fescue lawns. Another post-emergent herbicide that is safe to use on Kikuyu lawns is Munns Winter Grass Killer.
The recent rains experienced in many areas of the country have caused an extensive amount of damage to homes, businesses and to our outside living spaces.
The most important thing is the health of your families and supporting our communities, so stay safe and we wish everyone the best in the weeks ahead.
The biggest challenges faced during these times for lawns is the combination of water logging for extended periods, but in addition to this, once the water levels drop the soil and sediment left behind can smother lawns and are a significant barrier for recovery.
What can you do?
Firstly, make sure your lawn is safe. If rain is still coming down excessively and flowing water is still present, please wait. Make sure all hazards have been identified and addressed so you do not put yourself in harms way.
Facilitate water absorption and the draining away of excess water as best you can, as soon as possible and when safe to do so.
The best thing is for the rain to stop and for the lawn’s moisture level to return to a manageable level. Sunshine is the biggest influence on this, but you can aerate with a garden fork after a few days, divert water away from the lawn where possible and remove all debris that you can that could restrict direct sunlight to the grass.
Aeration is of particular importance for alleviating the moisture and allowing oxygen down into the waterlogged roots of the lawn. You can read more information about aeration here.
We have seen in some lawns a lot of mud and river silt left behind smothering grass once waters have receded. Remove what you can by hand and make sure you are wearing gloves. Although more water sounds counterintuitive, initially it can be a good thing to try and use a hose with high pressure to blast as much of this into or off the lawn, so the grass blades are unobstructed.
Another tip for removing any mud/silt/debris easily is using an old rotary mower with a catcher if you have one, as these are great at picking up debris on a lawn.
If moss or algae are present this too will need addressing, you can find more information on treating moss in our blog here.
Initially we would advise not to use any fertilisers, topdressing, or other amendments until you are certain the worst of the rain has passed, the lawn is drying out and you are seeing signs of growth. You don’t want to run the risk of wasting money on product that’s going to get washed away or could do more harm than good if likely to stress an already unhealthy lawn. You can however, hand weed, or spot treat any weeds that have popped up, as it is likely weeds will have infiltrated and it’s going to be important to address this so that they don’t get out of control.
When there is excessive moisture combined with humidity, it is common for turf disease to develop. Once the conditions that are causing the disease to develop are gone, your lawn in many cases should recover on its own. Aeration as mentioned above will significantly help with this, but if disease symptoms persist, you may need to look at doing a fungicide application to help improve turf grass health moving forwards.
If you notice the lawn is showing signs of being hydrophobic where the water is being repelled by the soil and pooling rather than absorbing quickly, then a wetting agent application will help with this. A product like Wettasoil or Lawn Soaker is ideal.
As soon as it is dry enough to do so without making much of a mess, mow the lawn at your normal mowing height. If the lawn has been left for an extended period and has some length to it, a reset may be required to bring the stem of the grass down to a lower height. This will involve taking the mower down a notch or two lower than normal (lightly scalping) before bringing the mower back up to the normal height. Getting back into regular mowing as soon as possible will be a big part in promoting healthy lateral growth for recovery. Dethatching or scarifying to remove any loose thatch or debris within the profile that has developed before or during the flooding is also going to aid significantly in recovery.
Once the lawn is showing significant signs of recovery, you can fertilise the lawn and target any weeds that have washed in more aggressively. It can be a really good time to also apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxa-Pro (20kg) that can help to prevent the emergence of some of the weed seeds that have likely been washed in.
We hope this information is helpful. There are no easy solutions unfortunately, but if you address the things mentioned above it will go a long way to speeding up the recovery process.
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Fertilising in Autumn will help keep your lawn healthy before the cooler temperatures start to set in. Here’s what you need to know…
Why fertilise in Autumn?
A lawn needs oxygen, nutrients, and water, along with sunlight to photosynthesise. With all these elements considered and readily available to your grass you should have a healthy thriving lawn.
If you have a warm season turf variety like buffalo, kikuyu, zoysia or couch the speed at which your grass will grow will slow as the soil temperatures drop below 14 degrees.
This means that if your lawn is unhealthy and nutrient poor, it will go into winter unprepared for the colder conditions. This will leave it susceptible to winter weeds, compaction, shade related issues and frost.
Now is an important time to address these deficiencies and prepare your lawn with the nutrients it needs during the cooler months. Any easy way to provide all of these nutrients is by applying a balanced fertiliser like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This contains micro-nutrients and trace elements that will replace the important elements that may have been lost over summer, along with the nutrients that your lawn needs for the coming cooler months.
Potassium for Plant Health
Most people know about nitrogen and its ability to provide quick green up and leaf growth. But Autumn is the time to fertilise to boost the health of the entire plant. This is where potassium comes in.
Potassium functions within the cell of the grass and provides strength to the entire plant. It helps the internal processes including photosynthesis, respiration, and protein production, creating thicker cell walls to help it withstand drought and disease.
Without potassium your lawn would struggle to grow, be lacking in strength and suffer yellowing of the leaf. Potassium comes in the form of sulphate as soluble potash. It is a common ingredient in all lawn fertilisers but can also be applied on its own.
Iron for Strength
Another key ingredient you will find in increased amounts in most winter fertilisers is Iron. Iron helps to strengthen your grass and improve leaf colour. Provided you have fertilised in Autumn and have your lawn well prepared for winter. You will be looking at providing an additional treatment around July in most states.
You can apply Iron Chelate which will help to get better iron uptake for better results without the Nitrogen promoting unnecessary growth. Just make sure you don’t get it on any hard surfaces as it can stain very easily.
We recommend applying a balanced fertiliser with micro-nutrients and trace elements. This will replace some of the important elements that may have been lost over summer. This will also help the potassium and iron that your lawn needs for the coming cooler months.
A slow-release granular fertiliser like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser will provide your lawn with nutrients for up to 12 weeks as it gradually breaks down.
Just remember, a lawn in dormancy can lose some colour as it is conserving energy. This is not anything to worry about. It is a completely normal part of the seasonal cycle for warm season grasses.
If you prefer using a liquid fertiliser during the cooler months or want to see a significant improvement in colour straight away, we recommend looking at Exceed, Lawn Kelper, or a pigment product like ColourGuard Plus.
For more lawn care tips and advice, you can check out our other lawn care blog here.
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