All Purpose Weed Control is a broad leaf herbicide, designed to control Bindii (jo-jo), Creeping Oxalis, Catsear, Clover, Cudweed, Plantain, Thistles, and Dandelion. This is suitable for established Couch, Bent, Kikuyu, Paspalum, Buffalo, Zoysia, Fescue and Rye lawns.
All Purpose Weed Control contains the active Bromoxynil, a selective contact foliage applied herbicide which has some limited systemic action in the plant used to control a variety of broadleaf weeds in grasses.
How it works:
Bromoxynil inhibits photosynthetic electron transport and uncouples oxidative phosphorylation in mitochondria, thereby stopping energy production and negatively affecting plant respiration. Both Bromoxynil and MCPA have relatively good U.V. stability which means it can stay on the leaf of the weed and not break down in sunlight before it has the chance to work on the targeted weed. It is safe to use on buffalo, however it is not safe to use on the older ST buffalo varieties.
Application:
All Purpose Weed Control is available in a ready to use 2L hose on pack which overs 200m2. Measure out lawn area before application to ensure the correct dose rate is applied.
Hard to control weeds, such as clover, often need a follow up spray. This can be due to residual seeds in the lawn or parts of the root systems not fully died off. Bindii are also hard to control as some weed seeds in the lawn last up to 5 years. The key is to get them before they set flower and reduce their number.
Dangerous to fish. Do not allow chemical containers or spray to get into drains, sewers, streams, or ponds. Do not feed treated grass clippings to livestock. Do not allow spray to contact or drift onto plants you do not want to be killed.
Lawn Soaker is a ready to use soil wetting agent specifically developed for use on lawns. It improves the penetration of water so it can reach deep down to the roots. Regular use will ensure the soil re-wets and prevents further dry spots from forming. Lawn Soaker is the perfect solution to drought-proofing your lawn.
Over time, soils may become hydrophobic and begin to repel water. When this happens, dry patches will form in your lawn which will make it increasingly hard to keep the moisture level up to your lawn, particularly during the hotter months. Lawn Soaker is a surfactant, which works to bond with the organic coating on the soil or sand particles and with water, allowing them to become wet. Much like a magnet changing polarity, the soil suddenly attracts the water rather than repelling it.
Application:
Application every 3 to 6 months, depending on the severity of the hydrophobic nature of the soil, will ensure optimum moisture absorbency. Simply clip on to your hose and apply.
Lawn care products in most cases are the easiest way to help keep your lawn performing and looking great. Most lawn care products available today are specifically designed to be safe to use around pets, kids, and wildlife! However, if you prefer not to use chemicals around your home, here’s how to go about it.
Mowing
Mowing is key to help keep your lawn nice and healthy. Regular mowing will help promote an even growth pattern. We recommend mowing frequently enough so that only one third of the leaf is removed with each mow. If more than this is mown, it will cause extra stress on the grass and can cause scalping. Mowing regularly will also help block out unwanted weeds.
As a general rule of thumb: mow shorter during summer and longer in winter.
Guide on ideal mowing heights:
Green couch: 5 to 30mm
Buffalo grass (Sir Walter): 30 to 50mm
Kikuyu: 30 to 50mm
Zoysia matrella (Sir Grange): 5 to unmown
Queensland blue couch: 5 to 30mm
Broadleaf carpet grass: 30 to 50mm
Hybrid Bermuda (TifTuf): 5 to 30mm
Fescue: 30 to 50mm
There is a wide range of mowers that don’t need petrol, from push reel mowers to the popular battery powered mowers. No matter what type of mower you have, making sure your mowing blades are nice and sharp will result in a better cut.
Hand weeding
By keeping a thick and healthy lawn you should be able to block out a lot of weeds before they start to appear. If there is still some weeds coming through, the best and easiest way to remove them is to simply pull them out by hand. However there are a few different weeds you shouldn’t pull out, you can find out what weeds these are here.
Using weeding tools like the WOLF-Garten Ergo Weeder will help make the task of hand weeding easier than ever. You simply need to place the weeder over the weed, push it down on the footplate and the prongs will grab onto the weed and its roots.
Boiling water works great at killing weeds, but like glyphosate, it is non-selective and will kill your grass as well. This organic remedy is a good option for concrete areas where you have weeds growing through cracks, but it’s best kept away from your lawn if you don’t want to end up with dead patches everywhere you poured it.
Organic fertilisers
Manure can be a great source of nitrogen for your lawn! If you are looking at using manure, it is often a lot easier and less smelly to use a product like Dynamic Lifter that has already been aged and is in a pellet form.
Please have a look at our blog on using manure on your lawn for more information here.
Aerate
Aerating your lawn will help assist your lawn to grow deep roots to produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. If your lawn is commonly used by pets or kids and has developed a compact soil base it is best to do this regularly. For a normal lawn this is best done every one to two years.
Aerating with a sturdy garden fork or core aerator and wiggling it back and forth is best to help fracture up and decompact the profile. This will better allow for air, water, and nutrients to penetrate to the grass roots.
Watering
Not too sure how often to water your lawn? The simple answer is when your lawn needs it.
For the most part, rainfall will be able to produce your lawn with enough water. However, you may need to provide additional watering’s if the leaf is wilting or losing colour or if it is becoming dry during hot weather. If you are trying to repair a certain area additional watering’s can help encourage growth.
Morning watering’s before the heat of the day is best. Late afternoon watering’s should be avoided to help prevent the lawn from sitting damp overnight.
Consistency is key
Like with most things, staying consistent is key to maintaining a great looking lawn.
For more lawn care tips and advice, you can check out our other lawn care blogs here.
A great looking lawn is a place everyone enjoys, but not everyone has the time and knowledge to achieve a showcase lawn. If your lawn is looking a little drought weary, lacking colour or suffering from the harsh winter climate, then it’s Lawn Rescue… to the rescue!
Lawn Rescue is a blend of liquid fertilisers, seaweed extracts and wetting agents, ideal for all new and established lawns and for post winter revival.
Pack size:
2L hose on bottle
Approximate area of coverage:
2L up to 150m2
Application Instructions:
• Shake well before use and ensure bottle remains upright during application
• Attach hose-on bottle to hose and remove plastic plug from sprayer
• Turn on tap and ensure bottle is pointing towards intended spray area
• Gently pull up black tab and sprayer will immediately start spraying
• Apply evenly to lawn • Lightly water-in after application
• Follow up applications may be required until desired result is achieved
Key strengths:
Suitable for use on all lawn varieties.
Perfect for new and established lawns at any time of the year.
Will restore colour and health to lawns that are looking dry and thin.
Contains a wetting agent to help drought proof lawns.
Analysis:
Nitrogen (N) 5%
Phosphorus (P) 7%
Potassium (K) 2%
Kelp (S) 7.5%
Polyacrylamide (PAM) 7.5%
How it works:
The nitrogen in the liquid fertiliser us usually derived from urea, which can be absorbed through the leaves of your lawn. So, unlike granular fertilisers which can require a soil-borne reaction at temperature, the liquid fertiliser will give your lawn an instant boost, even when the weather is still quite cool. The seaweed extracts work to condition the soil and promote healthy root growth. Then finally the wetting agent improves your soil’s ability to absorb precious moisture, thus optimising water availability to your lawn.
Wetting agents and soil amendments are commonly used terms when it comes to lawn care. In this blog we will look at exactly what wetting agents and soil amendments are, when they are required and the different types available.
Wetting Agents
A wetting agent is like a detergent or surfactant that attracts water to the soil’s surface. Applying a wetting agent will help the water soak into the soil, making the water available to your lawn’s roots. It will help increase the soil’s ability to hold nutrients and help increase the drought tolerance of your lawn so it can sand up to the hot summer days.
Different types of wetting agents
Soil wetting agents are available as granules, liquid concentrates, and hose on bottles.
Most granular and liquid concentrates need to be watered in well, but it is always best to check the product label.
When do I need to apply a wetting agent?
If your lawn is suffering from dry patches or is hydrophobic a wetting may be needed.
Hydrophobic lawns will pool water at the soil’s surface and will struggle to let the moisture soak down into the soil base. Dry patches or heat stressed turf can present in patches rather than across the whole lawn.
Wetting agents are best applied when the temperatures are cooler, either in the morning or afternoon. Repeated applications can be made every few months on an as needed basis.
Product recommendation
We recommend using our Lawn Solutions Lawn Soaker. Lawn Soaker comes in a 2L clip on ready to use bottle, treating up to 150m2.
Soil Amendments
By having the correct soil base your lawn roots will be able to grow and thrive. If you have a good soil base where water can flow through the profile, is free from compaction, and has a good amount of nutrients your grass has a higher chance of being healthier. Soil amendments are best made before laying your lawn down, however they still can be corrected after a lawn is laid.
Compacted soil
Soil compaction can occur as a result from high foot traffic in an area, from kids or pets, or in other frequently used areas. Heavier clay soils are very tight and bind together making compaction a common problem.
When compaction occurs, it can hinder the lawns’ ability to grow deeper into the soil. It can limit the amount of nutrients and water that can reach the root of your lawn.
To help alleviate compaction aerate with a garden fork, aerating sandals or a tyne aerator. For more information on aerating your lawn click here.
Soil pH
Ideally, a soils pH should be somewhere between 5.5 and 7. An acidic soil will be below 5.5 and an alkaline soil will be over 8. To test your soil, use a soil pH testing kit. We have an easy-to-use soil pH testing kit available here. Soil pH kits are also readily available from nurseries and garden centres.
If your soil is outside a pH of 5.5 and 7 you may need to look at making adjustments. If this is the case, check out our blog for more information here.
Clay soil
A clay base can make it difficult for the roots of your lawn to grow down into the soil profile. Clay soils will often struggle to drain water away, especially if it is compacted.
To help improve a soil with a clay base, you can apply a clay breaker like gypsum. Please have a look at our blog for more information here.
Making amendments before laying a lawn
If you are looking to lay a new lawn it is best to make any soil amendments before installation. In most cases, if you are bringing new soil in amendments shouldn’t need to be made.
For more lawn care tips and advice, you can check out our other lawn care blogs here.
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Are you unsure on what grass type is best suited for you, your family and your area? As there are so many different options available on the market it can be a daunting task to find which one is best suited for you. To help we have put together a short quiz to help find the best grass for you and your needs!
Before choosing a variety it is always best to have a chat with your local Lawn Solutions Australia Member for specific advice for your local area and climate. You can find who your local members are and contact details here.
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Over the years we have encountered many great Aussie lawns! In this blog, we will be taking a look at a few of our favourite lawns and seeing what lawn care activities each of the owners have taken to keep their lawns looking great!
Ever heard of that one crazy lawnie that’s mowing his lawn everyday? Well, I’m that guy on my street! What started as a DIY lockdown project when I decided to sort out my landscaping, has escalated to a full blown grass and lawn tools obsession.
Over a two year period, I’ve ended up with what seems like more mowers and lawn tools than the blades of grass on my yard! (Not to mention a social media content creation addiction!).
My care routine, across a full season involves, mowing as often as I can. I mow 3 to 4 times a week through Spring and Summer. Given I have Bermuda which tends to thatch up quite easily, I groom once every 4 to 6 weeks as well.
Having over done the product applications through my first year, I’m now trying to take a “less is more” approach with my TifTuf. I tend to fertilise once every 3 to 4 months but instead give my lawn a lot of organics to help both soil and plant health. In addition to this, I also use a quality pre-emergent so have almost no weeds to deal with, and a preventative Insecticide twice a year.
The lawn is my “happy place”. It’s where I go when I need to switch off and rejuvenate. I’m not overprotective of it and truly believe that it’s true value is in the time spent on it and not in trying to keep people off it.
I keep it really simple and don’t kill the lawn with kindness. Sir Grange is slow to establish and doesn’t really show it’s fully potential for 12 -15 months. I apply a granular fertiliser once a year normally around October, after a renovation. Don’t be afraid the remove the thatch and shave the lawn down, leave for 2 weeks and when top dress with a sandy soil. The rest of the year I apply a liquid fertiliser and wetting agent mix about every 8 weeks.
In October and February I apply Acelepryn and the same time apply a preventative fungicide. I find the secret to having a great Sir Grange lawn is the mowing. I use a Scott Bonnar cylinder mower, I have the cylinder ground and new bed knife annually, but before each mow I file and put a sharp edge on the bed knife – this is the secret to clean cutting. I don’t have a strict watering pattern only when required.
I use a greens grade granular fertiliser small prill fertiliser – Anderson Nutri DG 18-1-15, Liquid switch between Exceed liquid fertiliser and Lawn Kelper Liquid and Lawn Rescue wetting agent.
Basically, I am following the LawnPride Australia Buffalo program. I’m currently mowing 3 times a week with a cylinder mower at 20mm. Only water as required (we have had lots of rain recently so not a lot). Nothing super special, just look after it and keep the fertilising program up to it and it always stays in top shape.
My lawn care routine involves regular mowing 2 to 3 times a week and grooming every 4 weeks during the growing season. Every 3 months I fertilise with a granular fertiliser and apply a liquid fertiliser fortnightly. During the growing season, I also use a Plant Growth Regulator (PGR) to help tighten up the lawn and use a pre-emergent every 5-6 months to help stop seasonal weeds.
Every Spring I will do a lawn renovation. This consists of core aerating, dethatching, a low mow back to dirt, and a top dress with washed Sydney sand.
The key to keeping my lawn in good shape is irrigation and mowing above all else. I find the Sir Grange needs very little inputs to keep it healthy and green. I use Acelyprn GR for insurance against pests and renovate once a year. I use Oxafert as a granular fertiliser in spring and autumn so I don’t need to do a separate pre-emergent. I walk the lawn regularly and hand weed mostly, although the Sir Grange is a beast against weeds also. The occasional spray for nut grass as required and a few liquids every now and again.
I like to keep my lawn care routine quite simple as I believe the secret to my success is the prep work. I use lawn solutions Oxafert and Acelepryn GR a must on any lawn. For feeding I use liquid fertilisers and seaweed concentrate and water when she’s looking thirsty. My mowing height varies from 14mm to 32mm depending on how the leaf looks, all thanks to the ozito cyclinder mower.
I have Eureka Kikuyu that I installed and laid myself in November 2019. All my care products I purchase online through Lawn Solutions. It is constantly mowed every 5 or 6 days with my Bushranger 500CM Twin Drive Cylinder Mower at a height of 25mm. It’s wonderfully lush, vibrant, and soft dark green leaves are just perfect to wake up to on a Saturday morning.
We hope that our favourite lawns have spouted some inspiration for your home! For more information lawn care advice, check out our other lawn care blogs here.
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Insecticides and Fungicides are commonly used terms when it comes to lawn care. In this blog, we look at exactly what insecticides and fungicides are, the different types available and when you should use them on your lawn.
Insecticides
When your lawn is getting damaged by an infestation of insects and bugs, you may need to look at using an insecticide to help stop and prevent further damage from occurring.
It is important to note, insects are a normal part of your garden and lawns ecosystem. In fact, many insects like earthworms, praying mantises, bees and lady beetles are beneficial for not just your lawn but your garden’s ecosystem too! So, if you do see bugs and insects in your lawn an insecticide is not always needed.
Some of the main damage causing insects to lawns are infestations of army worm, lawn grubs and mole crickets.
Different types of insecticides
There are a few different types of insecticides available with different active ingredients. Some of the main active ingredients used to stop damage causing insects in lawns are Bifenthrin, Esfenvelerate, or Beta-Cyfluthrin. These types of insecticides are designed to get a quick knockdown.
Acelepryn GR – it’s safe for bees!
There are also insecticides available that will prevent damage causing insects. These products contain the active Acelepryn.
When to apply
If you only notice a few insects like beetles and worms in your lawn, in most cases an insecticide is not needed.
If there is an infestation of damage causing insects like armyworm or lawn grubs, it is best to apply a fast-acting insecticide as soon as possible. To ensure you have fully removed the damage causing insect repeated applications after 7-10 days may be needed to ensure you are treating the entire lifecycle.
When using Acelepryn it is best to apply at any 6-month intervals for season round grub prevention. As a general guide, apply in September/October and March/April for a full year’s worth of protection.
Product recommendations
For fast acting insecticides we recommend using Battle Insecticide which is a concentrate for mixing in a knapsack.
For a preventative, we recommend using Grub Guard Ultimate, Acelepryn GR and Acelepryn Liquid. Acelepryn works by targeting a specific muscle receptor that is common with damaging causing insects. Other non-target organisms like bees, earthworms, birds, fish, dogs, cats, and mammals don’t use the same muscle receptors, making it one of the safest insecticides on the market!
When applying insecticides, ensure you are following the correct application rates and instructions.
Fungicides
Fungicides are used to help stop fungi and diseases from growing. For the most part, fungal diseases are not common in residential lawns. Fungal diseases can appear with the conditions are right, usually damp, and humid conditions. They can also appear from over watering, soil compaction, poor mowing habits and incompatible grass varieties for your area.
For the most part fungal diseases can be avoided with regular mowing, irrigation management, shade management and aeration. If a disease doesn’t clear up after this and the weather is clear, a fungicide may be needed.
Different types of fungicides
There are 2 different types of fungicides available, contact and systemic.
Contact fungicides will treat the fungus that is currently there. They won’t be absorbed by the leaf and are best used for the control of foliar diseases.
A systemic fungicide will treat and prevent fungi and diseases. Systemic fungicides are absorbed by the plant and can kill the spores of the fungus, which helps prevent the fungi.
When to apply
When fungi or disease is present, the first call of action is to improve the environment. This can include reducing shade, mowing regularly, watering only in the morning and aerating. In most cases fungi and diseases will go away on their own as the environmental conditions improve. If the fungi or disease is still present in the following weeks a fungicide may then be required.
Product recommendations
When using fungicides it is always best to check if the product you are using is labelled to stop the specific disease or fungi in your lawn.
For contact fungicides a great all-round option is Mancozeb DG. This fungicide controls Helminthosporium, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, Grey Leaf Spot.
For a systemic fungicide we recommend using Heritage Maxx. Heritage Maxx provides control and prevention of a broad-spectrum turf diseases including Pythium, Anthracnose, Brown Patch and Spring Dead Spot. It will also provide consistent protection of new growth for up to 28 days after application.
For more information on insecticides, fungicides, and more lawn care products, check out our other blogs here.
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Do you know the difference between the common grass varieties like Buffalo, Zoysia, Couch and Kikuyu? Put your lawn type knowledge to the test!
Want more information on the common grass types available, their distinguishing features and characteristics? Check out our blog for more information here.
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We love sharing our knowledge of lawns, providing advice on the different turf varieties available and explaining the different lawn care products and how best to look after your lawns. But who is Lawn Solutions Australia?
Lawn Solutions Australia
Lawn Solutions Australia, known as LSA for short, is a national network of locally owned, and mostly family operated turf businesses.
To become an LSA Member you must grow turf to a very high standard and be approved by the Australian Genetic Assurance Program for turf called AusGAP to grow the certified grasses that LSA Members supply.
These turf grasses were introduced from LSA’s extensive turf research and development program. This program has the largest turf research facility in the Southern Hemisphere.
As part of this turf research program, we work with some of the world’s best turf breeders and scientists. We are wanting to find new and improved grasses that provide consumers better choices when looking for a new lawn variety.
Turf Trials
Thousands of grasses are bred and tested before a short list of elite performers. They are then put into further trials testing how they perform under wear, shade, and drought conditions.
If the grasses are successful in those trials, they will then undergo further trials. These involve herbicide resistance, establishment, and recovery speed and harvestability.
We trial these grasses in a range of climates right across Australia. This helps us see how they will handle the Aussie conditions. LSA will also compare them against existing turf varieties to see how they stand up.
We are looking for grasses that don’t just perform or survive. We are looking for new grasses that provide a point of difference, show exceptional qualities, new qualities unseen in the marketplace before. The cream of the crop.
It is not until or if we find this new grass that we will release to LSA Members for turf production.
The results of this program are represented in the successes achieved by each of the grasses released.
Sir Walter DNA Certified
Sir Walter DNA Certified soft leaf buffalo has led the way as the most successful commercial turf grass in Australia history. It has a great shade tolerance and is incredibly versatile across a range of climates.
TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda
TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is a somewhat newly introduced grass compared to Sir Walter, that has become the first and only turf grass in the world to be awarded the Smart Approved WaterMark for water efficiency and drought tolerance.
Bred out of the famous Tifton University in Georgia by the world’s best. TifTuf has shown superior qualities to that of over 30,000 different varieties. It is an absolute stand out when it comes to not just this variety of grass, but all grasses.
Sir Grange Zoysia
Sir Grange Zoysia – A grass like no other, Sir Grange can be kept at a range of heights. It’s a slow growing grass that is providing an alternative lawn option. This has never been available at this quality to consumers before.
Originally bred for golf courses, so you know it’s impressive. Sir Grange known as BRF Zeon Zoysia in the US, was used on the Olympics Golf Course in Rio.
We can’t wait to share with you some of the exciting new grasses we currently have in development.
If you are looking to install a new lawn or want to know about any of the grasses our members supply, please get in touch with us here at Lawn Solutions Australia or with your local LSA Member.
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